"Help! Advice on boards needed" Topic

OK, being a DIY dunce I need some help.

My basic problem is a tiny house and a 4 x 3 table which I want to convert into a 6x4 for gaming.

I've no-where to store a 6x4 board.

I thought salvation had come when I saw an article in the back of the previous issue of WSS which suggested slotting smaller sections of board together using a type of H-shaped moulding glued to the edge.

Alas a trip to B&Q has revealed nothing that looks remotely like that.

Anyone got any ideas what the damn things are actually called? So I have sufficient knowledge to intelligently speak to a member of staff :)

There are H-Clips to tie or align panel edges together. For a continuous strip to hide the gap between two panels, a search on "H-molding" shows it can be made out of aluminum or plastic.

Have you thought of using two pieces of board fixed together with hinges (or one long 'piano' hinge)?

Yes hinges are the way forward and its easy to do. Simple is always best and mostly cheapest.

You can then neatly store your hinged 3'x 2' gaming board under the bed and get shouted at when the woman, or whom ever, in your life stubs her toe on it.

How about 2 4x3 boards in, say, 10mm ply, which will be pretty rigid. Cut two 6' wooden batons, say in 25mm square timber. drill 4 holes in each, two near ends, two near middle. Drill holes in boards to align, and secure with wing nuts when in use. It would take 5 mins to assemble. I used to have a table like this myself.

The beauty is that you could store the two 4x3s on top of your existing table.

Balin – thanks for that. I see my problem… I thought there wa sa 'u' in molding…..

The google-fu is weak in this one….

I was thinking of going for three 4x2 boards, if only because SAGA tends to be played on a 4x4..

Hence wasn't thinking of hinges. But might do..

Food for thought. Thanks everyone!

BRB's solution would work well for you (even using three 4x2s)and the batons could also help to locate and secure the gaming surface on the table top if you positioned them in the right place.

LOL Simon

B&Q do 4'x2' hardboard sheets. Get 3 of these and some lengths of 40mm square pine – you will need a total of 36' of this but get the b&q guys to cut it into 6 4foot lengths and 6 2 foot lengths.
now make up 3 4by2 frames with the pine and just nail the hardboard to the frames.

thus you end up with 3 4 by 2 boards.

simples.

Well, the IS a U in molding, depending where you're from. The search is just more successful in a U.S. centric environment. I did try it with the "u" initially, and the machine "corrected" me.

"but get the b&q guys to cut it into 6 4foot lengths and 6 2 foot lengths."
(sorry don't know how to do proper 'quotes')

If you get it cut like that it won't fit. You need to take 80mm off of either the 4ft bits OR the 2ft bits to allow for the width of the wood ;)

Hi

I got 2 6' x 2'tongue and groove boards which slot together, and stand behind the dresser when not in use.

Phil

I was going to say that you need to take a bit off two of the lengths depending on the width of the wood you get to make it 4 by 2 but Drumcharry beat me to it. :-)

The advantage to doing the boards this way is you end up with a sturdy board as its braced with the frame but it doesn't weigh too much. 4 by 2 is a good size as it will fit along the back seat of most cars if you are taking it around with you.

the boards can be textured and flocked or you can even just throw a cloth over the top as required.

I thought standard SAGA was a 4*3 board – and it was only me that played on 4*4 with appropriately large deployment areas…