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"Basing 6mm Adler Napoleonic figures - a tutorial" Topic


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Steve M11 Jun 2014 2:12 p.m. PST

I have just added a post to my blog running through the method i use to base my Adler 6mm figures. Also shows how I do the flags:

link

hope you find it of some use

Steve

Sparker11 Jun 2014 2:49 p.m. PST

Thanks Steve – very useful!

LeonAdler Sponsoring Member of TMP11 Jun 2014 3:16 p.m. PST

Very nice indeed.:)
Not sure why going to that much trouble cutting down to individual figs rather than using strips mind you and removing the flag poles. Given that bases sizes are pretty abstract Id just adjust the bases rather than the strips myself.
Not to sure about the 'not flat bit' either, just sitting here with various strips and they all stand upright on the desk without glue. Occasional strips need the figs slightly 'pushed back' between the fingers to compensate for leaning a bit more forward as they get cast, (they get gripped by the rubber) Once a paper flag is wrapped around a cast pole coated with PVA and then varnished its pretty tough in my experience.

Personal logo Extra Crispy Sponsoring Member of TMP11 Jun 2014 3:33 p.m. PST

Sounds to me like he'd have to re-base the rest of his collection to conform to the new size based on the new strip spacing…

If you give your figures a good shot of DullCoat before basing you probably won't need to do that paint repair step.

LeonAdler Sponsoring Member of TMP11 Jun 2014 3:45 p.m. PST

Or leave them as they are? In the end all bases are is a way of moving a bunch of figures around on a table, if one batch are say 5mm wider than another batch it makes no real difference particularly in 6mm where combat is done by the battalion /Brigade.
Always gloss varnish mine before basing, toughens everything up and allows for any 'mess' when flocking etc lol
Basing is something that seems to get people going.
L

Personal logo Extra Crispy Sponsoring Member of TMP11 Jun 2014 6:58 p.m. PST

Yeah, basing is the great bugaboo. When I read that Black Powder was specifically designed so collections with different basing could be used together, I couldn't help think, what? You can't do simple maths like dividing?

But war gamers are an odd bunch….you should see the reactions I get if I say the word "Chart!"

Ilodic11 Jun 2014 9:14 p.m. PST

Leon. I would take the basing of figures individually as a compliment. I do the same thing with Adler, and being such very, very nicely sculpted minis, each deserves, in my opinion, individual attention. I too remove the flag poles, then drill through the hands, and use piano wire.

You don't need a lot of flags, so it is worth it.

Great job Steve, it looks like you enjoy the tedious portion, as do I, as it is just part of the whole process.

Adlers are small enough to not need to be treated with such care, but it is nice to know you have the choice with these fine figures.

Skull and Crown11 Jun 2014 10:54 p.m. PST

Very smart looking, thanks for the play by play!

I love my Adler's and have done similar basing. I use sewing pins for flag poles, then use the pointy bit to stick into the base for extra staying power.

To the esteemed Mr. Adler, I would reply that I had to cut the bases with my French, as how they are facing in line on the sprue didn't always jive with basing. British forward facing was much better.

Cheers
Ths
skullncrown.com

Sparta12 Jun 2014 12:05 a.m. PST

I love Adler, but also cut them to base them. I like them very thight, and cram 10 figures onto a 25 x 10 mm base.

To cut them is no biggie in my world. I originally used green stuff to base them just right; but I recently discovered another excellent technique: I just apply PVA glue to the base and put a small drop of superglue on the spots where I want my figures. The chemical reaction makes the PVA supersticky, and you can just place the figure in exactly the angle you want, regardless of any irregularities of the base – and it will stay in place immediately. Ithen simply sprinkle some green coloured sand over the base after a green base layer.

I think the fugures look great crammed together in mass. But as Leon has pointed out, there is no right way (two, three ranks whatever) to base, only what suits your personal aesthetics. I would not think that any designer could make a standard distance, that would suit everybodys taste. I think it is great that Adlers are mad, so tha they are so easy to clip and base at my preferred basing scheme.

[URL=http://s1166.photobucket.com/user/nbfoss/media/Figurer/CopyofFigurspil019_zpsa9fbbb55.jpg.html]

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Perfect six12 Jun 2014 2:05 a.m. PST

Great tutorial Steve, very informative and is very useful I have never tried changing the flag poles. But will give it a go as I have found them to be very bendy,

Richard

Steve M12 Jun 2014 9:49 a.m. PST

Thanks for all the comments.

I have found the French Guard I have been basing can just be cut out and pushed back to make them stand right, but the British and Austrians are in serious need to some leveling off. Interesting about the PVA and super glue and will give it a go – but as I find super glue seems to give me hay fever like symptoms perhaps not a good solution for me!

Even if I have to cut out and make figure bases flat I would still prefer to do that than anything else – to many to rebase and I am too picky to be happy with slightly different bases sizes even if rules would cope with it (I can't!).

Replacing flags seems quite common – for me it is partly about the existing poles being too bendy but more about wanting to have bigger flags than the guys should have to enhance the overall effect.

I am hoping to try out March attack rules in the near future and when I do I will post a battle report

Steve

Hampshire Hog12 Jun 2014 1:01 p.m. PST

Nice work Steve!

Having broken a few flag poles (well French ones) the first thing I do with an Adler command stand is undercoat, paint and varnish the pole, makes it a bit more robust for the rest of the process.

I have found some of them have a slight casting fault just under the eagle, (a "cold shot" if I remember correctly back to the days when I worked in a foundry), this can be sorted with a bit of superduper glue applied carefully with a cocktail stick then carry on as above.

I will be using March Attack as well when I have enough painted.

Tim

LeonAdler Sponsoring Member of TMP12 Jun 2014 2:04 p.m. PST

Ilodic
I always take it as the highest possible compliment when someone takes the time and effort to paint and base my designs up. There is no higher compliment that a designer can receive. Just worry when I see some of the grade A+ stuff like Steve M s that some of the less thoughtful might think that somehow the figures make things 'difficult'.
Its an unhelpful suggestion when your trying to appeal to the widest possible audience lol
L

Steve M10 Aug 2014 4:08 a.m. PST

Sparta

I tried the thing with white glue and super glue. For infantry I found it a bit of a faff as it did not set that quick (not sure if different glues set quicker), but it did work. I have stayed with flattening the bases first. I did use it very well though for gluing side skirts to a CanDo Jadg Panzer IV than needed repairing and I have just used it for a cavalry regiment which is definitely worth while given small number of figures per base and generally not very wide cavalry stands makes it much harder to get them flat.

cheers

Steve

Sparta10 Aug 2014 4:30 a.m. PST

Hi Steve, glad you found it some use. I put on white glue on the whole base and then 5 small dots of superglue, then let it prepare for about 5-10 secs, then it will become extremely sticky – if you do it right away it has nopt reacted chemically yet.

Steve M10 Aug 2014 5:53 a.m. PST

OK, will give that a go with my next lot of cavalry – although even if my combination of glues does not quite get the stickiness then it is still an improvement on what I used to do. If it does work better waiting for a bit first then I may try again with infantry – anything to help get the first bit of the basing process done quickly is a great help

DHautpol19 Aug 2014 6:37 a.m. PST

To Steve M, lovely figures.

I also base mine individually, separating the figures with a pair of snippers; I file the bases down a bit as part of my preparation process which reduces their height when you attach them to the bases.

As for glue, I find that super glue gel works fine by itself. A blob of glue where the figure is to go, position the figure and hold for a count of ten and he's secure.

I then texture using Colour Party's Green Basetex, or Coat d'Arms' Muddy Green Brushscape (it's finer texture works well for 6mm), and a light drybrush with a strong yellow.

Sebastian Palmer27 Aug 2014 2:18 a.m. PST

Hi Steve

Thanks for the link to your very useful and helpful tutorial. I've still yet to decide how to approach basing, but I do like how you do it, and the results speak for themselves… nice work.

I've added a post on my blog prompted by a few of the things you mention, chiefly separating figures from strips, and the forward-lean of some Adler figures.

picture

If anyone's interested, here it is:

link

I'll post it as a new topic as well, I think!

Cheers

Seb

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