"Boki 6mm Testproject" Topic

I paint defected casts for first impression.
All good casts goes to spincaster mould..

Hi

These chaps look great!

One thought on the bayonet – why not have it directly above the musket – as a continuation, rather than to one side?

Surely this would make them easier to cast and less prone to breaking off.

Thanks.

I use the best metal, bayonets don't break off easily.
They looks better this way, and I don't like muskets, which shoot bayonets. ;-)

very impressive

Hi Sho,

Great to see the interest your work is generating over here as well! You're dead right: bayonet has to be off-centre!

I read somewhere that you sculpt whilst looking through a magnifying glass. What sort?

As you know from my comments elsewhere, I prefer figs more widely spaced (or even separate!). As some others have hinted at, regarding 6mm compatability – I'm an Adler man – it'll be good if your figs sit well amongst existing brands.

I have some H&R, e.g. Imperial Guard band, pontoon stuff, etc., but they look tiny compared with Baccus & Adler. The latter two, although quite different, at least sit well together.

It'd be great to see yours alongside those, for an AB (spot the 'master sculptor' pun!) type comparison…

Regards

Seb

Hi Sebastian..
I use magnifier only with very small objects.
Some headglasses like headgear made in China, with different magnifing glasses. Very nice, comfort and elegant toy.

My figs are exactly 6mm. When they are ready for share, I change them with Richard PerfectSix against Baccus and Adler. Then comparison may be done.

I put some 6mm figs in my first spincasting mould for 15(18)mm figures. So here are this subproducts..

..now I must examine this results, but its looks like, that at least all bayonets are casted perfectly. So purchasing the spincasting tecnology was worthwhile.

Sho, your work is fantastic!

Arthur1815, you collect 10mm figures? Or 12mm?
Who is the best producer of such scale napoleonics?

Yes, please do 10mm! Have a look at my blog:

link

link

Cheers, Michael

Thanks, WeeWars!
I followed your blog a while, when you started, but then I focused on 15(18)mm.
It is quite possible, that I do or try to do something in this scale.. but I don't know what is the right size there from ground to eyes – 10mm, 12mm or 1:144.
I liked this scale after I see cavalryman figures in RISK boardgame, but this was more 12mm than 10mm.

After closer examination of the first spincasting results 6mm miniatures I may say, that many third generation gravity casted "masters", whish I created for spincasting mould, have too smooth gradients. Most people probably don't notice that and will be happy, but I seek for perfection. Now I must create new masters directly from the very first sculpture.

Not my scale Sho but fine work!!!

Looking forward to the final product

Thanks, WeeWars!
I followed your blog a while, when you started, but then I focused on 15(18)mm.
It is quite possible, that I do or try to do something in this scale.. but I don't know what is the right size there from ground to eyes – 10mm, 12mm or 1:144.

There's a photo on Post 6 of my blog showing height of Pendraken 10mm:

link

10mm foot to eye, I'd say.

Cheers, Michael

I like your idea about 1:150

Matrix for mould of masters. Test with four strip sizes.
Waiting when horse finished..

Really interesting to see Sho!

And the horse is looking really nice!!!

Thanks Paul!
You know as I'm afraid to sculpt and paint horses..

Don't forget Muybridge, Sho. His work is a big help.

Hi Sho,

Great to see the progress you're making.

My favourite of the various configurations is the 18mm base with four figures. I'm still interested in buying a few battalions worth if/when you go into production, so … keep me posted here on 'perfect six'

cheers

Seb

very nice – I like the trotting horse – maybe the head is a bit too small.

French fusiliers (right on photo) are ready for producing.
9 x 4 mm bases. My beloved 8 x 4 mm bases are great but may cause some problems.
Now I sculpt command group for them..

Looking good!

Do you have any pics comparing them to other ranges such as Adler and baccus

No, I don't have any 6mm figure from some other producer.
But virtually putting them to one picture its MAY BE look like this..
Boki, Baccus, Adler

Other peoples pictures of other peoples figures should always be used with great care and discretion. Those pics look distorted to me.
You do have to be very careful, for some people its their living, the information and 'image' you put out on the internet of their work can effect their income.
Its customary for designers and producers not comment on other makers ranges or use pics to show comparisons that are deliberately made to make a range look poor. Which is why since you became a producer rather than a hobbyist I havent said anything. As your now a professional then professional standards need to apply.
You might think Im being 'heavy' but I trying to help make sure you don't unwittingly annoy people.
L

I do agree with Leon, comparing figures should not really be done by anyone producing the figures.
The Figures do look nice though.

I agree and I sorry.
This is the only comparison, what I done firstly for myself after many people ask for comparing. And I show this only because my figure looks poorer.. smaller and skinny.

Not 'poorer, smaller and skinny' just different. Everyone has their own concept of what looks a 'good' figure. If your going to do comparison shots its very important they are done fairly, you need real life samples next to each other with you taking the pic and processing it so you know its not adjusted to suit any agenda. Dont forget H&R and Irregular figures either both produce some nice figures and yours might blend nicely with either.
L

boki has said he is going to send me figures to paint and review, I will post a true comparison once posted , my job requires me to work 1/1000inch so it will be accurate,as was my comparison with adler and baccus,

On another note boki be careful about posting pictures from another website without permission people can get very edgy about that especially if it's being used for commercial gain, but I'm not one of these people so I didant mind seeing my picture edited and posted just be careful,

I'm really looking forward to painting some of your new range it's always nice to see something new in this market and I will paint them up to the best of my ability

Richard

I agree with Leon. I painted hundreds of those Adler brits and they don't look anything like that fat guy in the picture.

Here's the original image, posted on my blog to dispel the myth that adler are closer to 8mm the photo is a true image cropped at the foot to show the size correctly.

Richard

I can assure you none of the pictures I posted are distorted in any way other then cropping the photo to the foot of the figure as adler bases are thicker it give a false impression of size, Leon you commented at the time that it was a useful comparison !

TMP link

Here's a link to the blog entry so you can see all the photos and the context in wich it is written link

Richard

Richard,
Wasnt the original pic I meant when I said 'distorted' just meant Sho Boki putting the the two pics, from different sources in different sizes together can end up with all sorts of distortions which is not great. My only problem with the original is the figs are not at the same angle and no design really looks good at x10 actual size lol. No figure really should be enlarged beyond twice actual size and particularly applies to the smaller scale.
The pic below is the same fig at approx x2

Photographing most figures is a very tricky and these wee fellas are a nightmare Im always amazed at the quality of your 'work in progress' shots let alone the painting!
L

Apologies Leon , they are a to photograph, lol, and I see what you mean thanks for clearing up .

Kind regards

Richard

"..no design really looks good at x10 actual size lol. No figure really should be enlarged beyond twice actual size.."

Cannot agree with this..
How we see, what we sculpted and painted, if we don't enlarge?
Especially little 6mm fellows must be enlarged enough.

I believe Leon was referring to the fact that, especially with small-scale figures, enlarged images belie the host of techniques figure sculptors employ to give the final figurine it's specific "look", which, while successful at the figure's actual size, may not necessarily impart the same visual appeal when the image is enlarged multiple times.

As an example refer to your posting of July 24th versus this posting from today.

All that aside I applaud your work and enthusiasm and appreciate you sharing your projects.

Sincerely,
Bob

Ah well often the way on forums, I really must stop bothering to engage lol
L

"All that aside I applaud your work and enthusiasm and appreciate you sharing your projects."

I agree

"Cannot agree with this..
How we see, what we sculpted and painted, if we don't enlarge?
Especially little 6mm fellows must be enlarged enough."

I agree as well

General de Brigade

fantastic – well done

Totally fantastic general! Just what is needed for 10mm!

Good practice for photographing miniatures is to make sure the camera is not too near the 'talent'. Most modern pocket cameras' wide-angle function is activated if you don't zoom in. So move away and zoom in. Taking pics with the wide-angle function will certainly distort the look of miniatures.

WeeWars.. what do you think about 1:130 scale?
An average napoleonic soldier (170cm) will be 12mm from foot to eyes there.

This is chap from boardgame "Risiko" in centre there.
Feel like the right universal scale for me.
Enough small for wargaming and enough big for boardgaming.
Easy to paint and all details may be extant and visible.

One exotics chap on my table today..

In case this is an Austrian fusilier of 1792 – the cartridge pouch belt was quite wide, wider than the waist belt – good topic though :-))

Cool! cannot wait to see your figs in real life, or for someone to take an actual pic of them next to Adlers.

Sho, I think 10mm foot to eye is more compatible with Pendraken and other ranges perhaps – as with the marching figure here:

link

It would really be good to have yours to add to the mix at the same scale.

Thanks!

12mm feels more natural to me. I may sculpt 2mm heads in both.. 10mm or 12mm, but in 12mm the overall look (proportions) will be better. Head then are 6,5 from height, what is acceptable for miniatures.