| Cacique Caribe | 26 Apr 2014 8:01 p.m. PST |
Has anyone here scratchbuilt an "angled" corridor or passageway like this using styrene, plus a few other plastic, paper and card bits, but where styrene still made up the main building material?
link
link
If so, what styrene sheets (and other bits) did you use? How did it end up looking? Got suggestions, pics, etc.? Thanks, Dan |
| Cacique Caribe | 26 Apr 2014 9:11 p.m. PST |
Or should I consider starting with 2 pvc trim molding pieces like this one (but an inch tall or so, and facing each other), to "frame" up the hallway, and just use styrene sheets to layer and angle the texture on the inside?
link
link Thoughts? Dan |
| TNE2300 | 26 Apr 2014 9:22 p.m. PST |
I would think the 90 degree frame would be stronger and less complex
another possible option
from TMP link |
| napthyme | 26 Apr 2014 9:42 p.m. PST |
I tried to do one wall section and the material costs were going to be ridiculous for a 60MM wall section, so I stopped and started looking into #d Sculpting instead. |
| Borathan | 26 Apr 2014 9:44 p.m. PST |
One thing to consider would be to go with L Corridors rather than full ones. Have one complete side and build up in the middle for ease of access for play. |
| mattblackgod | 27 Apr 2014 2:17 a.m. PST |
I have seen L shaped ones for 15mm built from foamboard. My 28mm corridor setup is made from foamboard and assorted junk. The are 2 inches high by three inches wide. I was thinking of 1 inch high by 1.5 inches wide for a 15mm set up. I made up a couple of test peices and anything narrower than 1.5 inches inhibits playability. |
| Cacique Caribe | 27 Apr 2014 1:23 p.m. PST |
My thought exactly. In fact, a 2-inch width wouldn't look too out if place in a corridor for 15mm gaming. But I would keep the height to an inch at most. And the floor would be made using 14-mesh* black plastic canvas (granny grating). If I made the styrene walls of the corridors a very plain 90 degrees from the floor,
I think something else would be needed to give the appearance of curvature at the bottom of the walls. Perhaps these Lego sloped grills?
auction They seem to slope at an angle of 18-20 degrees. And these are the dimensions (LxWxH): 1.6cm x 0.8cm x 0.7cm link Or would you maintain the walls perpendicular almost all the way down to the bottom?, and just add smaller angled tiles like these along the edge of the floor?
link Dimensions (LxWxH): 0.8cm x 0.8cm x 0.6cm Thoughts? Dan
* I think that means 14 perforations per inch:
TMP link |
| War Monkey | 27 Apr 2014 1:32 p.m. PST |
Have you checked out plastic tile edging, I have always thought they would make great sci fi walls. |
| Cacique Caribe | 27 Apr 2014 1:33 p.m. PST |
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| War Monkey | 27 Apr 2014 1:50 p.m. PST |
Just Google "tile edging" and check out the images, you can get them for about 4 bucks for a 10 foot one I would post a picture but I'm using a small tablet right now and have not figured how to do on this thing yet. |
| Cacique Caribe | 27 Apr 2014 1:54 p.m. PST |
Wow. If this is the stuff you are talking about, I'm definitely interested!
link
Dan |
| War Monkey | 27 Apr 2014 2:01 p.m. PST |
Yup that's the stuff I'm talking about |
| Cacique Caribe | 27 Apr 2014 4:00 p.m. PST |
Hmm. I'm still trying to get a good sense of how big those strips really are. Dan |
| War Monkey | 27 Apr 2014 4:07 p.m. PST |
Some are about an inch and some are about an inch and a quarter |
| Cacique Caribe | 27 Apr 2014 5:11 p.m. PST |
Excellent. They should work just fine then. I guess that the 5/16 inch mentioned in this link refers to the square "lip" that holds the tiles in place and not the overall width of the perforated side? link Thanks Dan |
| War Monkey | 27 Apr 2014 5:14 p.m. PST |
Yes they will I had been thinking of using them myself, I walk by them all the time at work, just haven't had the time for them yet. |
 javelin98  | 28 Apr 2014 9:47 a.m. PST |
Hmmm… I wonder if I could make that tile edging work in conjunction with the pile of 15mm Litko corridor stuff I already have… |
