"Modular Game Table - Sizes, Heights, Clamps" Topic

I started a thread a while back about buying or building a gaming table, and I think I've finally decided to build one.

I'm thinking of building four smaller tables that can joined together to make one larger one. I'll be playing Force on Force/Tomorrow's War games, which can be played on a card table (3' X 3') or anything about 6-ish to 10-ish square feet.

My thought is to build four tables about 3 feet by 18 inches, that can be joined together to make two 3' X 3' tables or one 3' X 6' table.

I'm thinking 2" X 2" legs, 1" X 4" apron/skirt, and a sandwich of 1/2" plywood with 1/4" MDF for the top. Possibly a laminate on top of the plywood/MDF. Possibly a stretcher or shelf/footrest for two of the four tables.

Table top height of 30", apron clearance no lower than 25", width of opening between legs around 25", stretcher/shelf height around 4" to 6".

Then, instead of card tables folded up and leaning against the wall, I'd have several "occasional"/work/desk/paint tables that could be joined together to form one gaming/fabrication table.

It seems that one large table might end up clogged with crap, whereas several smaller tables could be scattered about and used under windows, as desks, TV trays, end tables, night stands, etc. They just seem easier to fabricate and store, easier to unload and reload, and generally just not a huge, single-purpose behemoth.

Thoughts? Ideas? Suggestions? Comments on ease/portability/dimensions? Possible clamping methods to join them into one larger unit?

As always, thanks in advance for any help you wish to offer. Cheers.

You could build them as cubes on caster wheels with one side open with shelves easy to move and storage space, STORAGE SPACE being the key.

I have two home built 5x5 foot tables that clamp together. It is a sturdy beast that works well. However, if I was to do over, I would just go with 4 of those 2.5x6 foot plastic banquet tables. They are cheap (about $20 USD-$30 ea.), flexible, store easily and are a standard size found at many conventions. One of my friends uses this set up (he bought 5 to have an extra)and it works very nicely.

Future proof your work, consider being able to game on a 6x4..

War Monkey said:

You could build them as cubes on caster wheels with one side open with shelves easy to move and storage space, STORAGE SPACE being the key.

Good suggestion. For storage for now I'm using a giant cupboard in the basement that was completely empty for the past 12 years.

corporalpat wrote:

I have two home built 5x5 foot tables that clamp together. It is a sturdy beast that works well. However, if I was to do over, I would just go with 4 of those 2.5x6 foot plastic banquet tables. They are cheap (about $20 USD USD-$30 ea.), flexible, store easily and are a standard size found at many conventions. One of my friends uses this set up (he bought 5 to have an extra)and it works very nicely.

That's a thought. I've been trying to avoid buying anything large to store (I finally cleaned out my garage). I'm really trying to stay with smaller engagements to start, and specifically chose the FoF titles because they play on smaller tables.

McWong73 said:

Future proof your work, consider being able to game on a 6x4..

That, sir, is an excellent point. To that end I'm thinking of creating a "game board" for larger games, using three of those 2' X 4' pre-cut pieces of MDF that they sell at Home Depot (I already own one). I thought perhaps I could have a threaded receiver inserted into the "modular" table tops, countersink holes in the MDF "topper" and use flat head screws to attach it for stability. Then I could cover the screw heads with terrain bits or objectives.

Since my overall "mega-table" will be 3' X 6' (in the most common configuration) that means a tiny overhang of just 6" on the long sides, and none whatsoever across the short ends.

I'm mostly concerned with creating some parts that can break down and be scattered about when not in use, under windows, next to a chair, etc. The MDF toppers could be two-sided, and three of them would store underneath the giant cupboard in the basement, with one or two of the tables in front of them, if need be.

I'd also be interested in what you guys think about a comfortable playing height (I intend to be seated whenever possible), a comfortable minimum apron height and inner "leg well" width, and a comfortable footrest/shelf/stretcher height for seated play. Also, the max width and length for a table for mostly seated play, with of course room for reserve troops (by which I mean extra beers).

Dimensionally speaking, what do you find comfortable/playable? I have enough occasional chairs around to fill all four seating positions, but initially I'll mostly be filling those chairs myself.

Thanks again for the pointers, veterans of the Old Guard.

I am using IKEA Lack coffee tables for my Langemarck table. They are sturdy and have a shelf below. Good value at £20.00 GBP a pop. If you used the smaller Lack tables they cost only £5.00 GBP each.

I went with 2'x4' plywood pieces, reinforced with 1"x2" boards, mounted with metal folding table legs I got from the hardware store. I've built 3 of them so far and staggered the legs slightly so they can be clamped together with simple spring hand clamps. Works fine for most game's suggested table size. If I need a 3'x3' space, I use two tables and clamp down some string to mark the table "edge". Of course mine are green flocked and coated with polyurethane so they aren't useful for much other than gaming. They fold up nicely though and store easily in the back of a closet. Here's a link to my blog post about my tables.

link

@Ironmonk12
Nice tables, I like the idea that you can clamp them from the under side

I have built a 6x10 table that was modular. I made 4 3x5 tables. I made a 3x5 box using 2x4's. I placed 3/4 inch MDF board from Home Depot as the table tops and attached them to the 3x5 boxes. I used 4 small bookcases as my four corner legs. The bookcases are 29 1/2 inches in height. I drilled holes in the 2x4's so I can bolt them together to lock the four table tops in place. The table top sits on the book cases. The book cases adds some storage like rules, dice, rulers etc. I added a 4x4 at the center joint of each table to support the center. It is very sturdy. I like the modular aspect of the table because it is in my basement. When I move I can break it apart and take it with me.

Phil

I used to use the foldable tables but the cross legs limited the amount of space under the tables for storage. The above table doubles my storage space under the table from what I had.

Phil

Incorporating storage with your table is ideal, especially if you have a dedicated gaming space in your home. I have a plan in mind to "someday" build a set of cabinets on wheels that can be rolled around and clamped together into a variety of configurations. The cabinet tops would come together flush and provide a table top. Storage would be in the cabinets, of course. When I get my house with a dedicated game room I will build them. : )

Meanwhile, I like my folding tables. They work well, store and transport easily enough and I think they look pretty good.

Thanks for the great ideas, and the benefit of your various experiences.

It was sunny outside (or at least not raining), and I got sidetracked into the garden, so more updates later when I get back into the shop.

Always open for more suggestions and comments, though. :)

Do you prefer to stand or sit to play?

Length of game?

Height of table?

Area of table?

Comfortable (not necessarily maximum) width.

Comfortable (not necessarily maximum) depth.

Minimum apron height?

Comfortable area underneath table for your legs?

Footrest?

Through-bolted legs? Speed clamps? Toggles and receivers?

Table-top construction? Table-top surface? Game-board attachment method?

Interested in opinions. Cheers.