eptingmike | 02 Apr 2014 9:08 a.m. PST |
ugh, I just hate doing them. It is just a pain in my backside. Any of you folks have any techniques you find make the task more tolerable? Or is it just something that will always be a grinding slog? Thanks! Mike |
nickinsomerset | 02 Apr 2014 9:10 a.m. PST |
Huzzah for mud and dust!! Tally Ho! |
Garand | 02 Apr 2014 9:38 a.m. PST |
Grinding slog. If the road wheels are seperate and of sufficient size, you can use masks or circle templates to airbrush them. Some people use permanent markers though I don't necessarily see that as being easier. And then some people don't worry about it at all
Damon. |
eptingmike | 02 Apr 2014 10:08 a.m. PST |
Man, they just kill me. I am working on a bit of 15mm stuff. I should just cheat and use 'dust' and washes but I can't seem to make myself do it. Glutten for punishment, i s'pose. |
Rrobbyrobot | 02 Apr 2014 10:48 a.m. PST |
I find the painting of road wheels on models and miniatures to be a breeze. Try changing them on the actual vehicles. Now, that's a pain! |
Andy ONeill | 02 Apr 2014 11:29 a.m. PST |
If you can, paint the wheels before attaching them. You can actually buy appropriate masks for some, certainly in larger scales. Cutting a bunch of plasticard circles with a compas cutter would be the ideal otherwise. Attach with low tack glue and airbrush. With brush. Paint the metal and let it dry properly. Add extender or (preferably) use atelier interactive mid grey and paint the tyre reasonably carefully. Remove any excess with a clean damp brush. If you're quick and use two brushes you can do this with regular acrylic. Atelier has a long open time and you can still make it workable with water a while after it is touch dry. |
Abwehrschlacht | 02 Apr 2014 12:32 p.m. PST |
One way of doing it is to paint the entire wheel black, then paint the hub carefully. It's a quicker way than painting the tyre last. However, I get around the problem by the liberal application of mud and/or dust. |
eptingmike | 02 Apr 2014 2:16 p.m. PST |
I tend to airbrush and then detail paint. I should build in sub-assemblies but I like knowing that my glue joints are good. Ahh, the life of a 'nerd.' :) |
Striker | 02 Apr 2014 2:22 p.m. PST |
I've done some where the whole running gear is painted dark brown, "dirt color" and then weathered up with some drybrushing of the body color. That way on cast things where the wheels aren't separate I don't have to try and get a brush around in there. Some folks use it on 1/35 models as well. The dark color can be a mix of the base color, only a darker shade. |
Cold Steel | 02 Apr 2014 4:46 p.m. PST |
In real life, road wheels get caked in mud and dust as soon as you get off the road, so don't feel bad about doing the same with painting them. |
eptingmike | 03 Apr 2014 6:16 a.m. PST |
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ScoutJock | 03 Apr 2014 10:11 a.m. PST |
Artists ink pens with dark gray or black brush tips work pretty well for me. |
Andy ONeill | 04 Apr 2014 3:46 a.m. PST |
If you have an airbrush ( or spray can of varnish ) then there's also. Gouache. It's an odd sort of watercolour some people used to use way back when humbrol was your only model option. Paint on, scrub excess off rim. Also good for rust (burnt sienna) whitewash, mud and dust. As I implied, the downside is that you need to spray with varnish to fix it. |