Help support TMP


"Working With Resin" Topic


11 Posts

All members in good standing are free to post here. Opinions expressed here are solely those of the posters, and have not been cleared with nor are they endorsed by The Miniatures Page.

Please remember that some of our members are children, and act appropriately.

For more information, see the TMP FAQ.


Back to the Painting Message Board

Back to the Basing Message Board

Back to the Pre-Paint Preparation Message Board

Back to the SF Painting Guides Message Board

Back to the Tools of the Hobby Message Board

Back to the 15mm Sci-Fi Message Board


Areas of Interest

General
Science Fiction

Featured Hobby News Article


Featured Link


Top-Rated Ruleset

FUBAR


Rating: gold star gold star gold star gold star gold star gold star gold star gold star 


Featured Showcase Article

Cheap Buys: Hot Wheels Invader

Need an armored car in 15mm or 20mm, but don't have a lot of cash?


Featured Profile Article

GameCon '98

The Editor tries out this first-year gaming convention in the San Francisco Bay Area (California).


Current Poll


1,812 hits since 27 Mar 2014
©1994-2024 Bill Armintrout
Comments or corrections?

grommet3727 Mar 2014 7:51 p.m. PST

I just got my second shipment of mail-order sci fi goodness. I also just realized I know nothing about working with resin.

This stuff looks fragile, and I'm not quite sure how to clean it or glue it.

Tools? Tips? Tricks? Tutorials?

Any advice much appreciated.

What exactly is this stuff, and how do I work with it?

Pictors Studio27 Mar 2014 8:14 p.m. PST

There are a number of different types of resin. For example the resin used by Grand Manor and Battlefront is pretty hard brittle stuff while that used by Hawk Wargames for Dropzone Commander is actually quite flexible and resilient.

Either way you should probably wash the material with soap and water.

For the more flexible stuff the best thing to use to clean mold lines and flash is a dull exacto blade. Any old one that is no good for cutting any more will do.

The more brittle stuff can be dodgy to clean. For mold lines a dull blade will still work but with flash you need to be more careful so that you don't break off larger pieces than you intend.


For adhesion I usually use a model super glue, the one I prefer is Insta-cure.

Personal logo McKinstry Supporting Member of TMP Fezian27 Mar 2014 8:14 p.m. PST

Wash it in warm soapy water, scrub it carefully and then wash it some more. I've found the mold release or whatever they use on resin to be much more likely to resist paint than anything used on metal.

Moe the Great28 Mar 2014 3:56 a.m. PST

If you are going to be sanding it, I recommend a face mask so you don't inhale any of the dust.

If it is warped, you can let it soak in hot water and once pliable straighten it to the desired shape and while holding it submerge it in cold water until it holds that shape.

James Wright28 Mar 2014 4:29 a.m. PST

Second what Moe says about the mask. If you are sanding, it is very important. Resin dust is very dangerous.

TK 42128 Mar 2014 4:56 a.m. PST

I soak resin models in a water and ammonia solution. It works quite well. Also, when you can, wet sand and dust is eliminated.

ming3128 Mar 2014 5:29 a.m. PST

Clain resin in solutions above or , simple green , lestoil and water some form of degreaser. Wear a mask while sanding , the dust is nasty . I pin and glue with Epoxy for larger areas good super glue for small .

Lion in the Stars28 Mar 2014 9:49 a.m. PST

I used Formula 409 Orange oven and surface cleaner to strip the mold release, along with some attention from a fingernail brush.

You will know the mold release is gone when the surface feels rough like a stone.

You NEED to wear a dust mask when trimming, filing, or sanding resin. The dust is toxic.

If you have warped parts, near-boiling water is your friend. Let the resin soak for ~10min or so, then carefully straighten or rebend parts. This is usually the ONLY way to make ammo belts fit right.

Ordinary superglue will work wonders for sticking the models together. But once you get the mold release off, it's pretty much an instant bond.

Todosi28 Mar 2014 10:35 a.m. PST

The dust is not in and of itself toxic. I don't know where that myth got started. The fact that there are small particulates in the air is the concern. The same concern from dust, sawdust, etc… Wear a dust mask and you will be fine, please don't stress about dealing with poisonous dust.

Raptoruk369 Supporting Member of TMP28 Mar 2014 5:39 p.m. PST

I think when we are trying to help others, it MUST be factual when dealing with health related questions.

Polyurethane Resin

Polyurethane resin is a type of polymer that results from the chemical reaction when an organic isocyanate is combined with a compound containing a hydroxl --- which are components of bases, acids, phenols and amphoteric compounds. The chief health hazard associated with polyurethane resin is the presence of isocyanates; these are highly toxic and can have adverse health effects if proper precautions are not taken when working with the product.


Health Risks

When polyurethane resin dries, it often requires sanding, which produces a fine dust. Exposure may cause severe eye irritation, and skin may experience redness, swelling and blistering if exposed to the dust for an extended period. However, the most problematic health dangers associated with polyurethane resin dust are those that occur when the dust is inhaled. This can result in a condition known as respiratory sensitization, which is described by Guru Engineers as "an allergic, asthmatic-type reaction."

Read more: link


Safety

Risk of inhalation can be mitigated by taking certain precautions. When sanding polyurethane resin, use wet sandpaper to reduce the amount of airborne dust, and always wear a filter mask and safety goggles. Gloves and a long-sleeved shirt are also a good idea to reduce skin exposure. The room in which you are working should be well-ventilated. If you begin experiencing any adverse reactions while sanding polyurethane resin, you should contact a physician immediately.

Read more: link


Courtesy of Ehow.com

grommet3728 Mar 2014 8:08 p.m. PST

Wow, I guess I'll do it in the garage. I don't think I want the dust around my family or pets. Thanks for the heads-up, respondents. Glad I asked before I started doing it in the living room or on the kitchen table.

I went out and got some of the required tools today (pin vise, tweezers, files, sandpaper, etc.). Now I need to make a work space for slightly toxic stuff. Guess it's time to build that new workbench in the garage.

Sorry - only verified members can post on the forums.