"Clear Contact Paper To Protect Painted Water Surfaces?" Topic
7 Posts
All members in good standing are free to post here. Opinions expressed here are solely those of the posters, and have not been cleared with nor are they endorsed by The Miniatures Page.
Please don't call someone a Nazi unless they really are a Nazi.
For more information, see the TMP FAQ.
Back to the Terrain and Scenics Message Board
Action Log
25 Mar 2014 10:39 a.m. PST
by Editor Julia
- Removed from Modern Naval Discussion board
- Removed from Naval Gaming 1898-1929 board
- Removed from Victorian SF board
- Removed from Pulp Gaming board
- Removed from Prehistoric board
- Removed from Zombies board
- Removed from Modern What-If board
- Removed from Fantasy Discussion board
- Removed from Pirates board
- Removed from 15mm Fantasy board
- Removed from 15mm Sci-Fi board
Areas of InterestGeneral
Featured Hobby News Article
Featured Recent Link
Featured Ruleset
Featured Showcase Article
Featured Workbench Article The Editor dabbles with online printing.
Current Poll
|
Please sign in to your membership account, or, if you are not yet a member, please sign up for your free membership account.
| Cacique Caribe | 22 Mar 2014 10:41 a.m. PST |
Just wondering … Has anyone ever tried using clear adhesive Con-Tact Paper to protect surfaces that have been painted like water (rivers, lakes, ocean)?
link Dan
TMP link |
| Cosmic Reset | 22 Mar 2014 10:45 a.m. PST |
I've used it to overlay unit cards for use with grease pencils or erasable markers, but not on water. I generally coated water with either a clear enamel or artist's acrylic gloss coat. I think that using my Vietnam or colonial gunboats on it, would tend to snag, stretch, or tear it. |
| Cacique Caribe | 22 Mar 2014 11:03 a.m. PST |
Wow. I didn't know it was that flimsy. Dan |
| Coyotepunc and Hatshepsuut | 22 Mar 2014 11:49 a.m. PST |
I have used it to protect printed play surfaces, but it tends to mute the detail and color. |
| Lion in the Stars | 22 Mar 2014 6:57 p.m. PST |
I'd get some bar-top resin (the kind of stuff used to "armor" the place drinks are served in the pub). Follow the mixing directions precisely, and you will get a completely clear and high-gloss finish that's good for decades of heavy use. Nothing better for smooth water or hard use! You will need gloves and a painting mask and some UNWAXED paper cups to mix the resin in. The resin should say on the container what you should use to apply it to the board with. |
| Borathan | 22 Mar 2014 7:44 p.m. PST |
Dan, anything that isn't pretty close to flat isn't a good thing for contact paper. It tends to snag and shift a lot as used…it's also a right pain to get it on without air pockets in the first place. It also tends to dull things out. On top of that, if you ever intend to remove it, well, you end up with some rather annoying residue. That's not to say that it doesn't have a lot of good uses as well. It works rather well to protect flags, or to cover tokens, tiles, and similar things… |
| Curufea | 23 Mar 2014 7:40 p.m. PST |
My experience agrees with this. Contact is only good for flat surfaces with no variations – the glue is just not strong enough otherwise. |
|
worries about not losing his rules stuff.
