"Decal question" Topic

Hello again all,
I have tried to make decals on a laser printer using a clear decal sheet.Unfortunately I have had limited success, as the decals are flaking or breaking off.
Another issue is that I can't get the decal film to be invisible on a model.

I have used these products with no success.

Humbrol matt cote – spirit based.
Microscale Microset & Liquid decal film
Vallejo – Acrylic matte Varnish &
Alclad 2 Lacquer – Clear kote gloss.

Any help would appreciated.
Thanks
z

I can't help you with all your problems, but the solution to your flaking problem is this stuff:

link

I've tried using decals with it and without it, and I swear by the stuff. Works great on other people's decals as well – I used mine on some Flags of War decals and the flaking/breaking problem went away.

I don't know about making the decal film invisible. I personally haven't had that problem, but you can try painting over the film if your hand is steady enough.

I've successfully made very tiny decals…

This is what I do.

I use this paper:

link

I print from my inkjet printer (not laser) onto the decal paper with the setting of quality high, and type of paper high quality gloss photo paper.

I let that dry for 20 minutes or so.

Then I use this:

link

I spray five or so light coats over the whole paper, letting it dry each time.

I then cut it out, put it in water, wait for it to saturate, then I place it on the model.

On the model itself, I paint gloss first, and let that dry.

Then I put a heavy coat of Micro-Set (the blue one) and while it is still wet I put the decal on the area.

I let that dry, add another coat of micro-set, and maybe micro-sol after that if it's being onery.

Once that's done, I coat it with gloss again. And once that drys I coat with a matte varnish.

I hope this helps!

having the decal film appear milky is a separate issue. This is caused by having air trapped under the decal.

To get around this, first put a good gloss clear coat on your models after you are finished painting and before you apply the decals. Having that smooth finish allows the decal to set down right on the surface. Second, use a decal setting solution when applying them. I swear by MicroSet and MicroSol.

I use all the same products as above and essentially the same steps with excellent results.

The area where you're placing the decal MUST have a gloss finish before you apply the decal.

Be careful with Micro Set and Micro Sol with small decals and also be VERY careful about adjusting the decal after you apply these; they are basically solvents and will make the decal film very fragile.

Another tip is to trim the decal as close as possible to the printing when you cut if out.

Mr harold has it .
For laser ones I make the decals ( images) on my computer and print on matt photo paper on highest resolution . I have the local copy store copy image on laser decal paper using thier laser copier . then seal as mr harold and other have suggested

Gloss where you are putting the decals will work wonders on fixing the silvering.

The plastic modelers go with a full-blown full-model gloss coat, then apply decals (usually with micro-sol/micro-set), then after the decals have dried COMPLETELY they put another gloss coat down over the decals to seal them to the model, and finally put a dull/matte coat down over the top of that to kill the gloss on a military model.

And it sounds like Ming is on to something for the decals…

BCantwell: So do you then give the model a matt coating if you don't want it glossy when it's finished?

Thanks all for the good advice & the links.
I will definitely try these out.

Thanks again
Z