CooperSteveOnTheLaptop | 11 Oct 2013 5:35 a.m. PST |
Looking at playing Flames of War 6 Day war but using 6mm, any suggestions on ranges suitable for this era? So 'modern' ranges just list 'Israelis' or 'Arabs' without any reference to decade so its a bit hard to gauge? Ta |
account cancelled | 11 Oct 2013 5:38 a.m. PST |
The very best option is GHQ. I have a large collection to paint up for '73, but can move them back to '67 if needed. |
MajorB | 11 Oct 2013 5:42 a.m. PST |
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GROSSMAN | 11 Oct 2013 5:44 a.m. PST |
Also try C&C miniatures. They are much cheaper than GHQ and in some rare cases have better sculpts than GHQ, but I have to say if money is no object GHQ is the best. I also think GHQ infantry is the top of the line. |
CooperSteveOnTheLaptop | 11 Oct 2013 5:50 a.m. PST |
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CooperSteveOnTheLaptop | 11 Oct 2013 5:51 a.m. PST |
I fancy playing '48 at some point , but think I'll get round to that in 28mm via Bolt Action. by the time I'm ready maybe there will be ranges! |
MajorB | 11 Oct 2013 5:56 a.m. PST |
Also try C&C miniatures. They are much cheaper than GHQ I presume you mean C in C Miniatures? H&R are cheaper than both GHQ and C in C. |
Heinz Good Aryan | 11 Oct 2013 6:36 a.m. PST |
"They are much cheaper than GHQ and in some rare cases have better sculpts than GHQ, " -- cinc are about thirty cents cheaper, not a dealbreaker for me to spend the extra quarter or so and get a beautiful ghq model!!! also i have never seen a cinc model that is better than the ghq. ghq's models are little works of art
.. heroics ros quality is not very good at all, scotia is even worse. |
Martin Rapier | 11 Oct 2013 7:14 a.m. PST |
My 67/73 AiW stuff is almost exclusively H&R (the Centurians aren't ideal, but OK). Scotia is decent too. For some reason I decided to use Mainforce for the infantry, US as IDF and Sov as Egyptian/Syrian. Probably not something I'd do now. I am too cheap for GHQ, particularly for what is for me, a fairly peripheral period. I do have enough stuff to fight the entire Six Day War, which we have done, so maybe not that peripheral
Obviously for second line kit like T34/85s, IS-IIIs, SU-100s, Panzer IVs etc you use WW2 ranges. |
GROSSMAN | 11 Oct 2013 7:18 a.m. PST |
What Bumsore said- however that is what came up when I typed in on the google search. @Heinz, as I said on the rare occasion they have better sculpts, they have a couple of models that are better IMO than GHQ. Also they are .49 cents cheaper so if you are buying a force of 20 tanks it's $10 USD more with GHQ. My strategy is to buy GHQ for support/recon troops and mix in C in C for the bulk hordes of T-34s or BMPs ect. |
Heinz Good Aryan | 11 Oct 2013 7:20 a.m. PST |
personally as i'll be looking at the tanks for decades, and because wargaming is a visual hobby, i'll spend the extra ten clams to get models that are MUCH nicer, but that's just me. what cinc model is nicer than its ghq version? have yet to meet such a fella. ghq:
cinc:
heroics ros:
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GROSSMAN | 11 Oct 2013 8:22 a.m. PST |
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Robert666 | 11 Oct 2013 3:24 p.m. PST |
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CooperSteveOnTheLaptop | 12 Oct 2013 4:59 a.m. PST |
Martin Rapier, "Probably not something I'd do now." So what infantry ranges would you chose to use now? |
Echoco | 12 Oct 2013 4:55 p.m. PST |
H&R infantry if you want your infantry to be in scale and a little fragile. GHQ if you want them good looking and over sized compared to tanks. Not much between for 6mm modern infantry as far as I know. |
CooperSteveOnTheLaptop | 15 Oct 2013 5:32 a.m. PST |
HR WWII British for Jordanians, modern Sovs for Egyptians & syrians, WWII US for Israelis? |
tbeard1999 | 16 Oct 2013 3:30 p.m. PST |
Here are some of my painted Arab/Israeli Wars minis (all GHQ) at my site texaswargamer.com : Israeli M48:
Israeli Halftrack
Israeli Centurion
Egyptian Shermans w/AMX13 Turret
Israeli AMX13
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CooperSteveOnTheLaptop | 18 Oct 2013 4:23 a.m. PST |
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GROSSMAN | 30 Oct 2013 12:51 p.m. PST |
tbeard I would like to know how you painted your A/I wars tanks the Israelis look great! |
Milites | 30 Oct 2013 5:59 p.m. PST |
I seem to remember the tanks I saw in the various IDF museums were a bit greener, but it could just be the photos are not reflecting the true colour, (I notice the AMX-13 is closer to the greeny sand colour of memory) Them again, it could represent vehicles covered in sand/dust, which in the Southern part of the country gets everywhere. |
tbeard1999 | 02 Nov 2013 5:56 p.m. PST |
Hey GROSSMAN. Here's an edited version of a post I made to the FFT Yahoo group: Good news -- it's really fast. *** My Israelis are 50% Testors Acryl flat white and 50% Games Workshop Dheneb Stone. Dhebeb Stone is not "yellowy" the way so many desert colors are. The European MERDC Bradley is my version of Forest Green in the US MERDC camouflage scheme -- Testors Acryl Dark Green (50%) and Testors Acryl Primer White (50%). The primer white gives this enough bite to work as a base coat. The desert MERDC scheme uses Testors Acryl US Army/Marines Gulf Armor (4812) as Desert Yellow. I use an airbrush extensively. My newest toy is a Grex TG gravity fed double action trigger airbrush. Basically, the current methodology is thus: 1. Airbrush black primer (Vallejo Surface Primer) 2. Then I airbrush with a 50/50 mix of Testor's flat white acryl and Games Workshop Dheneb Stone. Unfortunately, GW has changed their paint line, so there is no more Dheneb Stone. Rakarth Flesh is supposedly close, but it's darker. I'll try a higher proportion of Testor's flat white. I haven't tested it. Other purported matches are Reaper's Masters Ruddy Leather and Vallejo Game Color Heavy Warmgrey. Anyhow, this coat is "angled" so that the wheel wells and the recessed areas of the track assemblies stay black. 3. Spray with gloss clear. 4. Apply black wash. (Future and GW black ink). 5. Touch up wash if necessary. 6. Airbrush with matte coat. 7. [Optional] Lightly drybrush track edges with silver.
Sounds like a lot, but I have it down to a process and do it in batches of 9-20 vehicles. I do NOT concern myself with "accurate" colors. Rather, I pick colors that look good on the table at gaming distances. A lot of experimentation went into my current color choices. They are also significantly lighter than "official" colors for several reasons. First, I adhere to the "scale color" theory, that holds that smaller scale models should have colors lightened. Second, I use wash and glazing techniques that tend to darken the paint scheme. Third, lighter colors allow my techniques to bring out detail. Since most of my micro stuff is GHQ, this results in attractive models with relatively little effort. *** For camouflaged vehicles, make the base coat the lightest color. Then add the darker colors after step 2. Hope this helps. |
tbeard1999 | 02 Nov 2013 6:22 p.m. PST |
Milites -- I chose the colors I did because they look good to me. I have seen photos of desert vehicles covered with dust that look kinda like that, but mostly the color chosen was the result of a lot of experimentation on what looked good on the table. (It's a 50/50 mix of old GW Dheneb Stone and Testors Acryl flat white). For what it's worth, I've seen photos with all kinds of gray, sandy and greenish colors. I get the idea that the Israelis had a variety of paint schemes. 40 year old color photos, scanned by hobbyists are probably not the most accurate sources color-wise in any case. |