"Sealing Paper, or Cardstock, with Gloss Coat or Flat?" Topic

Just curious to see if this might work?

I have a paper model, with inkjet printing on it, and want to seal it for durability.

The paper is secured to a hard backing material (plastic).

I'd like to put a gloss coat over it, to protect it, and then to apply a flat coat over that.

Has anyone else done this, with success, using either plain paper, or cardstock, with inkjet printing?

I think it should work, but just curious.

Seems to me since it is glued down to the plastic, warping shouldn't be an issue.

Not done it with a building, but my 1/3000 ship bases are ink jet printed labels, successfully sealed with Humbrol varnish, the old fashioned solvent based sort. Not sure if acrylic varnishes would do the same, as they are water soluble, so may make the ink run. Best to do a test strip and check it out. Old card modellers, back in the 30's, used to use " shellac" to harden their models and I think that was just a varnish.

I don't see any need to "protect" inkjet printed models. Mine are all fine and have been for years.

An artist's fixative sprayed before the gloss coat could help cut down on bleeding.

The big issue with ink jet printing is fading of the inks with time. The only way to combat this is to keep your models out of the sun or use more archival inks, which are of course more expensive.

TMP link

I ALWAYS spray my PaperTerrain models with Dullcote after they are finished. I recommend it in the instructions I supply with the kits. I can't claim that I've made any long-term studies of the benefits of doing this, but I think it makes the finished model look better and I would hope that it helps seal them against humidity, which definitely saps the stremgth of the cardstock.

I actually spray the paper models with Dullcote after I have printed them but before I build them. I don't smear the ink then while building the model and if I get a little excess glue anywhere I shouldn't it cleans off easier.

Why not cover them with clear, matte contact paper? I've done this with card stock 2D tiles (actually, I used gloss contact paper, as I was out of the matte, and so I went with what I had -- they both work the same). Here is a link showing my 2D stuff: link.

I would recommend applying the matte contact paper prior to assembly. I'm currently experimenting with backing 3D models with peel-n-stick floor tiles (I skipped the contact paper, so far, but I'm considering this option, as well). Be aware that covering glue tabs with contact paper will require different glue to adhere the tabs… Cheers!

Why not cover them with clear, matte contact paper? I've done this with card stock 2D tiles (actually, I used gloss contact paper, as I was out of the matte, and so I went with what I had -- they both work the same). Here is a link showing my 2D stuff: link .

I would recommend applying the matte contact paper prior to assembly. I'm currently experimenting with backing 3D models with peel-n-stick floor tiles (I skipped the contact paper, so far, but I'm considering this option, as well). Be aware that covering glue tabs with contact paper will require different glue to adhere the tabs… Cheers!

I didn't know they made gloss or matte contact paper.

Another option would be printing out an overhead projector copy of the image, and gluing that on, since it's made of plastic.

printing out an overhead projector copy

Who uses overhead projectors these days? I haven't used one for years!

I don't, but have had stuff printed on the material.

I hope it doesn't go obsolete anytime soon, but imagine it will, eventually.

Thanks for all the tips, and suggestions.

Of course, as always, more than willing to consider others too, if you think of them.

Matte, clear contact paper (shelf liner): link.

I found a glossy finish, clear contact paper at Wal-Mart. The matte will be your best option.

Here is another option, GRAFIX CLEAR -INK JET ADHESIVE FLM: link. Cheers!