"Contact paper & vinyl tiles: reinforcing 3-D models?" Topic

I am in the process of experimenting with using clear, matte, contact paper, to cover my cardstock creations from the Borderland Keep PDF. My goal is to strengthen them considerably, with minimal effort (if it is too much work to do, why not just build it from scratch?….). My other thought was to use peel-n-stick vinyl floor tiles: attach the printed pages to the tiles, and assemble the tiles to form the Keep. Not sure how best to assemble the vinyl tile pieces -- facing them is easy, attaching them together to form a strong, stable, 3-D building is another matter entirely…

Anybody done this before? I searched the forum, but I came up empty. I appreciate any insight anyone has to offer, but nay-saying won't stop me from trying. >:D Experimentation is King, Baby! 8-)

I've worked with other 3-D cardstock models, and they don't fare well, over time, being handled, stored, and gamed with. While they are just cardstock, and 'easy to replace', that ink, and the assembly time, adds up. I want something more permanent, but easier to build than doing it from scratch -- that, and the printed cardstock looks incredible, and no painting required! Cheers!

I've worked with other 3-D cardstock models, and they don't fare well, over time, being handled, stored, and gamed with.

??? I have a number of cardstock models that were built many years ago and they are just as good now as they were when I first made them.

Mine have been banged around a bit, and it doesn't take much abuse to damage simple, flimsy cardstock, unfortunately.

Covering them with clear contact paper is easy; neatly/cleanly gluing vinyl contact paper to cardstock, without using a pasty contact cement, is challenging. Applying printed cardstock to vinyl floor tiles is easy; securing vinyl floor tile pieces together, edge on, is challenging. I have a few ideas, but I wondered if anyone else has been down this road before. Cheers!

Mine have been banged around a bit, and it doesn't take much abuse to damage simple, flimsy cardstock, unfortunately.

Ah, there I may have a solution. My cardstock buildings are not flimsy – every piece is mounted on thicker card before assembly. I can literally chuck them across a room without them sustaining any damage.

I've mounted paper terrain on foamcore for some of my buildings. But that's thick enough you'd have to either take into account leaving space on the corners for the 2 foam alls to abut, or cut the ends of the walls at 45 degrees so they can be flush & form the corner.

One thing I've done for Roman Seas ship models is print them onto full sheet label paper, then affix the labels to .040 sheet styrene. It worked quite well, and made for a much sturdier model (especially since they were put together with styrene glue, which welds the plastic together). You do have to handle folded tabs a bit differently, though.

Doug

Art stores will sell you a bunch of foamcore tools, including a rabbet cutter that makes corners a breeze. I think the line is Foam Werks.

Excellent ideas, Gentlemen. Thank you. However, I have a near-full box of floor tiles, which won't get used otherwise, left over from another project. I would like to get some use out of them, and this seemed a good option to at least experiment with.

I really like the styrene sheet idea. It is one of my favorite materials to work with, but it tends to be pricey for larger projects. The fact that the edges can be 'welded' together with solvent glue, is wonderful. I will file that away.

The foamcore tools are also a useful option. I hope other readers will gain from your ideas. Cheers!

However, I have a near-full box of floor tiles, which won't get used otherwise, left over from another project. I would like to get some use out of them, and this seemed a good option to at least experiment with.

I don't tink I'd use floor tiles for this.

I really like the styrene sheet idea. It is one of my favorite materials to work with, but it tends to be pricey for larger projects.

That is one reason why I use card – it's a lot cheaper!

The fact that the edges can be 'welded' together with solvent glue, is wonderful. I will file that away.

PVA is an excellent glue for bonding paper and cardboard.

It is one of my favorite materials to work with, but it tends to be pricey for larger projects.

Not if you buy it in a 4x8 sheet. Check a local plastics supplier. They're usually willing to sell single sheets.

Doug

Not if you buy it in a 4x8 sheet.

4cm by 8cm?
4in by 8in?
4ft by 8ft?

If your model is small enough consider using foam paper plates. They cut easily and are fairly sturdy.

Elsersyn is referring to a 4-foot by 8-foot sheet. He is correct, it is available from plastic suppliers, but I'd likely have to go mail-order, or drive two hours to get to a supplier.

I mail-ordered some clear plastic sheets (similar to Plexi-Glass, but a cheaper knock-off), for making clear bases, cut to custom size, several years ago. I never thought of trying to source styrene sheets that way. He is correct: it would be considerably less money, per square-inch, buying it in this size/bulk. Nice suggestion! Thank you!

Never thought about foam plates. Would be a good idea for smaller buildings. Thanks for that, Dynaman8789! Cheers!

4x8 feet

Doug

Elsersyn is referring to a 4-foot by 8-foot sheet.

Crumbs! How do you get a sheet that big in the car? That'd be enough to last me about a million years!!

Crumbs! How do you get a sheet that big in the car?

.040 styrene rolls up into a tube nicely.

Doug

I've built a lot of design models for clients (I'm an architect) and have run into the same durability problem many times. My best advice for a stronger build is to print on 100# card, then spray it with 3M adhesive and laminate it down to a piece of Bristol paper as a backer. Bristol paper has very good end-on strength, but cuts and scores much more cleanly than, say, chipboard, matte board, or floor tiles.

I've also used foamcore for sturdier presentation models, and if you cut back the corners 1/4" you can die them together quite cleanly. It's a bit of a chore but you'll get a very strong result, and a 45 degree angle cutter will let you mitre the corners instead of routing them away, though getting them to run along your part lines takes some practice.

--M

Sgt Slag. I've started experimenting with self adhesive floor tiles for figure basing and it's pretty good to use. For buildings you will need to reinforce the corners. MB's styrene sheet is good too -all you need do is cut it in half if you don't have an estate car!
I've also found that mounting board or foamboard works really well if you coat it with tetrion mixed with water and PVA which can have textures cut/pressed into in.
This mounting board version of Hougoumont was built about 18 years ago and apart from needing the paintwork touching up still looks ok. I did re-base it on a piece of laminate flooring though -it's cheap, durable, cuts easily and refuses to warp!!

I've been itching to proceed with my experiments, of late. I need to bite the bullet, and do it: a castle tower, a wall section, maybe a gate-house? Problem is, I have another miniatures project which I've established a timeline for, and I keep getting de-railed with other, interesting projects… Discipline required, I guess. I have tomorrow to work on gaming projects, so hopefully I will get some work done on several fronts? Cheers!