| StCrispin | 25 Jun 2013 6:48 a.m. PST |
I have a can of clear polyurethane sitting around and wonder if it makes a good sealant for my minis. are there any long term issues i should worry about? I use the dip all the time, but only on the hordes of minis that fill the back ranks of my units. I would use the clear stuff of the better painted figs. should I quit being a cheapskate and buy some gloss coat to protect them, or would this stuff do the trick? |
| Jovian1 | 25 Jun 2013 7:02 a.m. PST |
They are pretty much the same thing. Spray gloss is usually just a spray polyurethane finish. The can stuff is essentially the same thing without the aerosol propellant. |
| phil bagnall | 25 Jun 2013 7:04 a.m. PST |
I know that many people happily use standard clear polyurethane gloss as their topcoat on figures and are very happy with it. The only possible problem might be yellowing with time/sun exposure; though I can't speak from experience on this I have heard the odd report that it can happen so I use the Future acrylic floor polish alluded to in a recent post, and a brush-on matt varnish on top (Winsor & Newton Galeria artists matt varnish in my case) |
| Timmo uk | 25 Jun 2013 7:46 a.m. PST |
I would avoid it like the plague. I'm not saying it will definitely yellow over time but it does have the capacity to yellow. Not worth the possibility of ruining a pile of figures for the sake of a bottle of non-yellowing acrylic gloss varnish. |
| Jovian1 | 25 Jun 2013 9:32 a.m. PST |
Most modern polyurethane finishes do not yellow over time as they have been chemically stabilized and are much better quality than the old Varathane of yesterday. That is my experience. |
| StCrispin | 25 Jun 2013 10:13 a.m. PST |
i go to art stores all the time, so I decided to get some artists acrylic varnish instead. its not worth the risk to save a few bucks. ill use the polyurethane for some lesser figures. thanks for the input! |
| John Armatys | 25 Jun 2013 10:22 a.m. PST |
I have used use Ronseal Mattcoat for many years. Provided it is reasonably thin it works fine. If it is getting a bit thick it is OK for terrain and bases but is best kept off figures. |
| Broadsword | 25 Jun 2013 10:31 a.m. PST |
|
| Lardie the Great | 25 Jun 2013 10:48 a.m. PST |
Pretty sure Humbrol is clear polyurethane and that's recomended by Mr K. Dallimore, so that more than enough by me. |
| Timmo uk | 25 Jun 2013 12:01 p.m. PST |
Lardie the Great, I'm pretty sure it is as well. Mr Dallimore used to use Blackfriars matt varnish – I wouldn't because the chap I spoke to in Blackfriars' own paint lab told me that it can yellow in time. Not that it will definitely yellow but that it has the ability to yellow. I note Mr Dallimore has now switched to acrylic Daler Rowney matt varnish, or he had when I last read the Steve Dean forum. Daler Rowney's paint lab people tell me their acrylic varnish wont yellow in time due to the resin base they use for it. Having spoken directly to the paint lab people there is no way I'd risk my figures on the chance that they may or may not yellow. |
| Lardie the Great | 25 Jun 2013 3:28 p.m. PST |
Timmo UK, I suppose it's a trade off between possible yellowing and possible knocks and bangs as the main reason to use polyurethane is protection against wear and tear rather than a sealer. I believe direct sunlight is another factor, I think we need Mythbusters to do a painting special, could do an episode just for varnish ;) |
