YogiBearMinis | 02 Apr 2013 10:52 a.m. PST |
Terrain looks to be the next sinkhole for my gaming budget, and I am starting with looking for a castle/fortifications for medieval and fantasy 28mm gaming. Looking around, for early medieval/dark ages the best choice seems Grand Manner with their various models. I don't see a lot else for this period in the way of fortifications. For high medieval, my choices seem to be the Hudson & Allen pieces available through wargame scenics (which are nice), the Warhammer fortress kit from Games Workshop, and the MBA pieces for city/castle. There is also a Blue Moon set or two, but information/reviews on this seem to be impossible to find. There are also the Castlecraft plastic kits, but these seem far less impressive than the GW kits. Re late medieval, I really don't see anything. |
companycmd | 02 Apr 2013 11:22 a.m. PST |
Ok so what if it wasn't a sinkhole? Why does it have to be a sinkhole? Is it because you are looking for a museum piece or a game piece? If you are looking for a museum piece to game with, then ya go blow the bank up. But if you're looking for something affordable, adjust your requirements. If by this you mean "already built painted sculpted and needing no work whatsoever to put into a game" then yes, go see your banker. If you want something you can get for about 30 bucks and tweak to be usable, different story. So if you have time and tools, make it from wood foam core and paper artwork. |
Sgt Slag  | 02 Apr 2013 11:41 a.m. PST |
Have you considered paper models? They have to be printed, cut, scored, and glued, but they can be quite impressive when completed. Examples: Worldworks' Castleworks Ultimate: link -- it really is the 'ultimate'; Microtactix' Dirt Cheap Keeps: link; Fat Dragon Games' Winterhawk Castle: link1, and link2 I own the original Worldworks Castleworks set (OOP), which is basic, but nice; I also own the Ultimate, but I've never built it, as it is too complex for me, as well as being too expensive to build, with the high price of inkjet cartridges, due in particular to the very high number of pages for a full blown castle from this set, complete with hoardings
I also own the Fat Dragons Games basic keep set: nice, more complex than the original Worldworks castle, but nothing like their Ultimate set. With this, and the original Castleworks set, I am able to build two relatively simple castle types, and by using different colors of card stock, I can make similar, but different castles, as needed. There are other paper castle models produced, and available, but these will give you something to consider. Cheers! |
Feet up now | 02 Apr 2013 11:41 a.m. PST |
May be a shot in the dark (no pun intended) but didn't Britains do some vacuform Medieval forts or castles? Are you after the early motte and bailey or Palisade type? I know baker company do wonderful Palisade pieces that you can order depending on what area you need to cover ,Vietnam scenery section. You could combine these with a single stone tower and some of the excellent and cheap railway plaster sheets over some base in a shape to simulate the motte and bailey hill. I recommend the GW fortress purely for the modular build freedom it gives you on a games table. |
willthepiper | 02 Apr 2013 11:47 a.m. PST |
Zvezda makes a castle and a fortress, with modular pieces so you can assemble it as you like. While it is advertised as 1/72, it looks fine with 28 mm figures (in my opinion). Hirst Arts has moulds that will allow you to build castles to your own design. |
Pictors Studio | 02 Apr 2013 11:52 a.m. PST |
I have the GW castle and not only is a it cheap but it is a pretty nice piece. Plus it is pretty sturdy being plastic, I don't worry about it breaking or chipping when I take it places. |
Feet up now | 02 Apr 2013 12:03 p.m. PST |
Found one but this is a ridiculous price link |
YogiBearMinis | 02 Apr 2013 12:17 p.m. PST |
@Companycmd-- "sinkhole" is a joke referencing all of our collective spending on hobbies. Lighten up. @Sgt Slag--I had considered paper models, because you are correct there are lots of options. I wasn't sure how great they would look, or be easy to construct AND then hold up, for war gaming versus role playing. @Pictors--have you tried to use the GW fortress with various other manufacturers' building models, eg, the fortress with Grand Manner or Hudson & Allen buildings? That was one concern I had, whether I could construct a village and use it with the GW kit. |
Xintao | 02 Apr 2013 12:41 p.m. PST |
I have the GW Castle, Hudson & Allen Village and MBA Town buildings. I think they all work fine together. Xin |
KatieL | 02 Apr 2013 12:42 p.m. PST |
Magister Militum has several styles of castle walls in 25/28mm and the prices aren't bad at all. |
Sgt Slag  | 02 Apr 2013 12:54 p.m. PST |
It really depends on how much transporting you need to do. If they will be used in the same location, no traveling required, they will hold up surprisingly well, if you mount them on a good base -- this reduces the handling of the card stock, itself. If you mount the printouts on foamcore, MDF, or even corrugated cardboard, they will be much more durable. They can withstand the rigors of mini's gaming quite well, as long as they are treated with the same respect painted mini's are treated. As to how they look, IMO, they look fantastic. I would suggest purchasing a small, simple, inexpensive set, to experiment with (Fat Dragon Games' two models are equally priced at $14.99 USD per set, though the Winterhawk set comes with optional hoardings for the tower; Castleworks Ultimate, at $11.50 USD, is the best bang for the buck, and you will have the most complex set, compete with optional hoardings for towers, and walls; the Microtactix set, at $8 USD, is the least expensive, but also the most basic, in appearance, as well as design). Pick any one set, to experiment with. You may be surprised at how well they work, and appear on your gaming table. If you print them out at maximum quality, and invest the time to carefully assemble them, they can be quite impressive to game with, as well as durable. Cheers! |
Xintao | 02 Apr 2013 1:02 p.m. PST |
Sgt Slag, what glue do you use? I have a couple of Fat Dragon Modern terrain sets and sometimes it can be a pain to get the glue to hold. Xin |
Sgt Slag  | 02 Apr 2013 1:23 p.m. PST |
White school glue (Clear is available, too, if you prefer; same formula, only crystal clear): it works very fast on paper, when applied thinly -- you may be surprised
I put a small bead on the flaps, then wipe it across the area, with a finger, and press together. It will dry to a good hold, within around 5-10 seconds (often 2-3 seconds after pressing firmly
), if applied thinly; you will not be able to peel it apart without the paper tearing. Other folks swear by UHU sticks (the kind that go on purple, but turn clear when dry). Burnishing is critical (pressing the tabs together, firmly, with a wooden dowel, or flat ruler), after the thin application of glue. Try experimenting with scrap pieces of cardstock, to get a feel for it. Cheers! |
Pictors Studio | 02 Apr 2013 1:28 p.m. PST |
I agree with Xintao, I use the GW model with other buildings I have from Brigade, Perry, MBA and a bunch of other companies and they all work well together. |
YogiBearMinis | 02 Apr 2013 1:32 p.m. PST |
@Sgt Slag--two last questions--1) what quality/style printer do you use for printing these out, and 2) what quality of paper? I have access to a better ink laser printer at work, but wasn't sure if to use cardstock or what. |
YogiBearMinis | 02 Apr 2013 1:35 p.m. PST |
companycmd--i think I overread your post so I apologize for being snippy. I was generally trying to get opinions for gaming pieces that still looked good, but nothing museum quality nor requiring skill at Hirst blocks or the like. |
kallman | 02 Apr 2013 2:06 p.m. PST |
I will second Pictors on the GW Mighty Fortress Castle. Plus it is easy to get expansion bits if you want more walls/towers/or even another gate. Being plastic it is tough and light and if put together right and painted looked great. My only complaint is that any configuration will have to be all 90 degree angles. I currently have two sets of this castle plus some extra walls, one I converted to be a breach. I like the Hudson Allen sections and in fact I have the tower keep which has gotten plenty of game time. The only issue I have with the Hudson Allen is that the ramparts are pretty narrow which can be prone to figures falling off. |
nnascati  | 02 Apr 2013 5:06 p.m. PST |
If you can find one on eBay, grab an Elastolin castle. They are gorgeous injection molded plastic, already painted. Though sold as part of the 40mm range, the doors are the right size for 28mm. I wish I still had mine. |
Woolshed Wargamer | 02 Apr 2013 5:58 p.m. PST |
I made this with my son years ago as a school project. Insulation foam mostly. link TO see what an expert does with this stuff check out this chap's work. link |
Condotta  | 02 Apr 2013 6:45 p.m. PST |
You mention Blue Moon, and commented that you need more info. Here is a person who may be able to assist: TMP link You are in the states, and this castle is on offer there. |
Sgt Slag  | 02 Apr 2013 8:26 p.m. PST |
For paper castles, you can use either an inkjet printer (set to "high" quality), or a laserjet printer will work (uses plastic toner, melted into the surface of the paper). Color laser printers give the best results. Use 110# cardstock, white for normal, or try experimenting with different colors, for different effects (yellow, gray, tan, etc.). Make certain the printer (ink, or laser) can handle 110# cardstock! Be sure to set the printer's options for cardstock: laser printers use heated, teflon-coated rollers, with high pressure, to melt the toner into the paper's surface; with heavier paper, the printer slows the rollers down, to allow more heat transfer, as the thicker paper insulates, so the heat cannot penetrate, and the toner will flake off, not having melted into the paper. It is best if the cardstock can be fed straight through the printer, if possible -- not a game breaker, but it helps if it is not flexed/curved running through the paper path (the manual feed tray is usually the straightest path through most printers, as opposed to the paper tray, which usually curls the paper 180 degrees out of the tray, and into the toner cartridge's path, then through the fuser assembly, and then out the paper output unit). I am a Computer Technician, by profession, worked on laser, and inkjet printers, for many years. Be careful not to risk your job using work printers for personal projects
If you take the PDF files to Staples, or other businesses like them, you can get your stuff printed on color lasers, with 110# cardstock, for around $0.50 USD-$1.00 per page. It will add up, but if you glue the cardstock to cardboard, or plastic sheets, your castle will be very durable, and lightweight. They are also very modular. Appearance wise, they look fantastic (check the sellers' web sites, linked above -- those are realistic photo's, not doctored, they really do look that good!). Cheers! |
YogiBearMinis | 02 Apr 2013 8:51 p.m. PST |
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D A THB | 02 Apr 2013 10:09 p.m. PST |
I am using a MiniArt 1/72nd scale Castle scaled up with green foam and Zvezda bits to make a castle for my Robin Hood project. I have done lots of work including basing the whole thing lately, so its more of a Model than a gaming Castle.
Dan |
bandit86 | 02 Apr 2013 11:14 p.m. PST |
The Hudson and Allen one is nice but more suitable for 25mm |
Lion in the Stars | 02 Apr 2013 11:21 p.m. PST |
You can also make your own 'foamcore', putting printed textures onto 1" or 2" thick pink foam. @Brian Smaller: whoa, you weren't kidding about an expert scratchbuilder! |
Rapier Miniatures | 03 Apr 2013 6:12 a.m. PST |
Depending on the depth of a sinkhole, you may be able to commission just what you want for a similar price to the off the peg solutions. ++++++ advert alert ++++++ yes I do building commissions link |
Ranger322 | 03 Apr 2013 7:27 a.m. PST |
Hmmm
I didn't realize there was such a void with products like this. Do you folks feel that there is much of a demand for larger structures like this? Battlescapes Terrain may take a look at tossing around some ideas
probably a mix of foamcore and 1/8" MDF. Might be a good time to work on that stone stamp I've been thinking about making for foam carving
:) Bart battlescapes.blogspot.com |
Ranger322 | 03 Apr 2013 7:29 a.m. PST |
Although, to undercut my own ideas, I've seen some of the Fat Dragon stuff first hand
they're very nice when assembled properly. I'd agree with mounting them on some 1/8" foam core though, or you'll wind up bending/crushing your pieces. Bart |
SgtPerry | 04 Apr 2013 2:44 a.m. PST |
That is why I was forced to commission the building of my 13th century caste. link
Olivier |
Malatesta1500 | 04 Apr 2013 6:42 a.m. PST |
I have quite a large fortress set up for my Renaissance Collection. I have used various different pieces and tried to bring them together by painting the stone/plaster a similar colour. The Old GW Polystyrene mighty fortress is good if you can track it down on ebay as are the resin pieces from Magister Militums Battleground range, although they are not as cheap as they used to be. They do late medieval gun towers which are quite nice. I also picked up some walls with hoardings and towers with wooden tops on ebay, they are made of blocks of wood, with balsa wood hoardings. Have a look at some of the set ups that are possible with these pieces, I hope they provide some ideas: link link Oli |
YogiBearMinis | 04 Apr 2013 8:43 a.m. PST |
Both of the above posts are greatly appreciated. I especially love that all show figures with the buildings/walls, which helps a lot. I had not realized the distinction between the older GW Mighty Fortress and the newer Warhammer fortress set. |
snurl1 | 04 Apr 2013 10:00 p.m. PST |
GW's older and current fortress offerings are easy to build and pretty versatile. Downside is their buildings look a bit over decorated. Hudson &Allen's castles look great but IMHO the parapets are a bit too small, same with the towers, only hold one or two figures at best. Buildings are molded right along the interior walls. MBA's castle is great, they sell hoarding too, and its already painted. Just don't drop it. Plus it's the most expensive of the more common choices. Plus buildings galore. |
rampantlion | 05 Apr 2013 6:39 a.m. PST |
I have a large amount of the Hudson and Allen stuff and I agree that it is a little small, but is really nicely done. I would like to get me hands on the old Gallia castle. It was very nice, but I have not seen any for sale for years. Allen |
Chris Abbey | 10 Apr 2013 6:00 a.m. PST |
Sally 4th are developing a modular range of 28mm castle components, (towers, walls, stairs etc). These can be seen at sally4th.co.uk |
DukeWacoan  | 18 Apr 2013 6:25 a.m. PST |
I have this one and it's nice - link There are some pictures of parts of the castle with Front Rank 28mm figs here - link |
snurl1 | 19 Apr 2013 7:04 p.m. PST |
Hold the phone- Just discovered Castle Wolfenstein by Ziterdes. Worth a look. |
rampantlion | 19 Apr 2013 7:41 p.m. PST |
That is pretty cool, is it resin or foam core or something else |
snurl1 | 21 Apr 2013 9:51 a.m. PST |
It is made of that hard foam, similar to Hudson& Allen's castles. |
TimManchester | 26 Apr 2013 4:49 p.m. PST |
Seriously, build your own. Check out Hirst Arts: hirstarts.com I've made a bunch of buildings and several walls and a few good keeps with this. I could post some pics if there's any interest. Regards, T |