Help support TMP


"Pike Block" Topic


9 Posts

All members in good standing are free to post here. Opinions expressed here are solely those of the posters, and have not been cleared with nor are they endorsed by The Miniatures Page.

Please be courteous toward your fellow TMP members.

For more information, see the TMP FAQ.


Back to the Blogs of War Message Board

Back to the Ancients Gallery Message Board


Areas of Interest

General
Ancients

Featured Hobby News Article


Featured Link


Featured Ruleset

The Art of War


Rating: gold star gold star gold star gold star 


Featured Workbench Article

Cheetahs

Wyatt the Odd Fezian paints some fast cats.


Featured Profile Article


Current Poll


903 hits since 29 Jan 2013
©1994-2024 Bill Armintrout
Comments or corrections?

Personal logo BigRedBat Sponsoring Member of TMP29 Jan 2013 3:28 a.m. PST

No, not yet another phalanx, but a handy way of painting pikes!

picture

More on t'blog:-

link

Cheers, Simon

VicCina29 Jan 2013 6:32 a.m. PST

Nice and creative way to get those pikes painted.

Mithridates29 Jan 2013 1:10 p.m. PST

Good idea Simon.

I have been using 2 lengths of rolled plasticene with the pikes balanced between them – only doing about 12 pikes at a time. Adding a wash of Army Painter soft tone to the wood areas gives them a nice sheen and slightly orange tone.

Garry

idontbelieveit30 Jan 2013 4:38 a.m. PST

Hmmm. I always attach the pikes to the figure and then paint the whole thing. I would think that gives a better bond?

Spotter30 Jan 2013 5:04 a.m. PST

I agree with idontbeliefit, but can see that it would be easier to do a lot that way. Glueing the pike to the bare metal hand before priming is the way I go.

Cheers

keith

PS Thanks for sharing.

Personal logo BigRedBat Sponsoring Member of TMP30 Jan 2013 7:31 a.m. PST

Hi chaps, when fitting them I always scrape the inside of the hand (using the edge of a drill) and the contact point on the pike clean of paint, to get a strong metal-to-metal bond. The pikes are anchored both to the hand and to the base, and they don't come off in a hurry, I can tell you! :-)

It's quick to paint a big batch of pikes, and also quicker to paint the minis without the pikes attached, in my personal experience. Only takes a minuteor two each to attach the pikes, after.

Cheers, Simon

Craig R Davey30 Jan 2013 3:03 p.m. PST

Last batch I painted, I used a pair of pliers to push the pointy end of the pikes into a string of wood, spray primed, painted and ink washed before attaching to the painted figures/bases. Then paint the pointy end…combination of both methods!

Regards,
Craig

Personal logo BigRedBat Sponsoring Member of TMP30 Jan 2013 4:41 p.m. PST

I can see that would work…

I am just finishing another 18 including the 8 painted unarmoured you sent me, Craig, which look very nice! I just love the Foundry WotGs.

Cheers, Simon

JJartist30 Jan 2013 11:27 p.m. PST

Hmmmm… I reckon I will share… I use styrofoam… since there is always plenty of it from various projects or from stereo speaker cartons. My trick is to stick all the points in the foam…after covering the area in some masking tape… making a nice little prickly forest.. then spray the primer coat on. Then I spray on the wood brown. Once well baked in the sun, I pull them out and usually attach to the phalangites, then finish them off, pretty much exactly as you do the spear points, very dark burnt Umber at first and then after the spraying, the dark metal and then a hot silverish highlight if I am in the mood. Generally one side line of hot shine is all one needs to make a bunch of pike points stick out. Sometimes I do knick the paint at the handgrip to get some traction.

Sorry - only verified members can post on the forums.