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"Gluing clear resin? Active camo idea" Topic


7 Posts

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770 hits since 5 Jan 2013
©1994-2026 Bill Armintrout
Comments or corrections?

Dropzonetoe Fezian05 Jan 2013 6:25 a.m. PST

I had a wild idea but needed some guidance on how to do it – or if others have done it links to their work?

I wanted to make a miniature (15mm for my gaming needs) cut off some of it and replace it with a cammo cape or holo field someway and replace the missing bit with a clear resin replacement of the missing body parts.

To show the change – in progress, if you will.

Has anyone merged any not predators in clear resin and metal in such a way? What glue or bonding material would you use?


Thanks
DZT

Ivan DBA05 Jan 2013 8:53 a.m. PST

I don't know about glueing it. I think one challenge will be what the internal surface (where the metal and resin meet) will look like from the outside. Will there just be bare metal visible through the resin?

Personal logo Legion 4 Supporting Member of TMP05 Jan 2013 9:24 a.m. PST

White glue like Elmers or other white craft glues available at craft stores should work for clear plastic or resin …

Dropzonetoe Fezian05 Jan 2013 3:03 p.m. PST

I suppose I would have to prepaint the "guts" of it something before bonding it. I didn't even think of that!

Would white glue hold up to gaming use?

Katzbalger05 Jan 2013 7:07 p.m. PST

White glue will not work for wargaming purposes if your contact area is small. Your most likely option in that case will be superglue.

Rob

AndrewGPaul06 Jan 2013 7:18 a.m. PST

2-part epoxy is probably your best bet.

chromedog07 Jan 2013 3:56 a.m. PST

There are two part epoxies with a good refractive index (used for glass repairs and are virtually invisible when done properly).

PVA isn't a good one – it isn't a permanent adhesive (it never goes waterproof and can be removed with warm water and soap even years later).

There was an Infinity modeller who converted a Cutter TAG (battlesuit with Thermoptic camo) a roughly 65mm tall model to be half-clear resin (it's a metal model originally) to show it phasing in and out of camo (but I've never seen anyone do it for 15mm)

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