Help support TMP


"Speed painting in 10mm for Russian Front" Topic


11 Posts

All members in good standing are free to post here. Opinions expressed here are solely those of the posters, and have not been cleared with nor are they endorsed by The Miniatures Page.

Please be courteous toward your fellow TMP members.

For more information, see the TMP FAQ.


Back to the WWII Discussion Message Board

Back to the WWII Painting Guides Message Board


Areas of Interest

World War Two on the Land

Featured Hobby News Article


Featured Link


Featured Ruleset

DivTac


Rating: gold star 


Featured Showcase Article


Featured Profile Article

First Look: GF9's 15mm Falaise House

Personal logo Editor in Chief Bill The Editor of TMP Fezian explores another variant in the European Buildings range.


Featured Movie Review


2,913 hits since 4 Nov 2012
©1994-2025 Bill Armintrout
Comments or corrections?


TMP logo

Membership

Please sign in to your membership account, or, if you are not yet a member, please sign up for your free membership account.
alan L04 Nov 2012 3:11 a.m. PST

I have a large selection of Pendraken Germans and Russians which I bought years ago.

To get them on the table with a little effort but a reasonable result when looking at them from 3 feet away, what is the best way of painting the figures and vehicles? I use Vallejo paints, by the way if anuone can suggest specific colours.

I am certainly not hoping to win any prizes in a painting competition!

fred12df04 Nov 2012 3:32 a.m. PST

Spray paint speeds things up a lot. You can get coloured primers from Army Painter, Flames of War and Tamyia.

Choose one that is the right base shade for your tanks and troops and get a base coat on in that colour. You can then pick out details, for tanks tracks are probably the main thing. Add some camo to the German tanks.

For infantry, helmets, faces and hands, rifles and packs are the minimum.

Then a brown wash ( or black on green Russian tanks) and a dry brush to bring out details. You can go quite pale with the dry brush so that it looks good on table.

BrotherSevej04 Nov 2012 4:05 a.m. PST

Spray black. Drybrush white. Wash with major uniform colors. Pick up the details. You can dry brush with grey for more subdued colors, or brown i you will paint it traditionally. The initial drybrush will put some early shading so you only need to wash or place flat colors.

If you're not picky, base them all before painting. Much, much faster for massed army.

Black Bull04 Nov 2012 4:17 a.m. PST

For Soviets paint green or lightish brown pick out webbing,guns and flesh wash everything with W+N peat brown ink then paint the helmet green, varnish all done

normsmith04 Nov 2012 4:25 a.m. PST

All of the above. I used 'Soviet Green' which is great fortheir helmets and tanks. A khaki sort of brown is fine for uniform.

in 10mm, black boots will also need to be shown.

For vehicles, I undercoat black, paint Russian green, apply a dirty wash and then very lightly drybrush in any kind of yellowy sandy colour to get some weathering effects.

Martin Rapier04 Nov 2012 1:54 p.m. PST

For Sovs, undercoat black.

Infantry: overall Vallejo British uniform. Paint boots, rifle, flesh. Wash W/N peat brown. Paint helmet.

Tanks: Vallejo Sov green. Inkwash, although I usually don't bother. Very light drybrush of Iraqi sand. Paint tracks.

works for 15s so I guess it will work for 10s.

As above, pre-basing the infantry will save a ton of time.

CAG 1904 Nov 2012 3:44 p.m. PST

For a speed painting perspective at the TLAR (That Looks About Right) distance can I suggest the following:

Undercoat white.
Use a thinned VJ Khaki Grey paint over the whole figure. The white undercoat means that you get some relief without having to worry about highlights.
Paint the weapons and boots in VJ Black Grey
Paint the wooden parts of weapons in appropriate brown
Add the flesh
Paint the helmet
Wash with the GW Earthshade (or the Camoshade one for a greeny tinge).

Basing either do first and then seal with the white paint and then repaint, or add once you have completed the undercoat, either way get the basing done before you get onto the main figures.

I did something similar for my WW1 brits

link

As to vehicles, russians are very simple again I suggest a white undercoat and thinned base coat in VJ Dark Camo green before a dry brushing up with VJ Russian Green

Germans do the same and either use the VJ Orange Ochre or the Middlestone, before adding the camo green and browns (again go for a lighter shade).

With 10mm it does pay to go slightly lighter than you would for say 15mm or 20mm vehicles.

Hope that helps

donlowry04 Nov 2012 4:08 p.m. PST

For weathering, turn the tanks and other vehicles upside down and spray them lightly with a very light tan or beige to make them look dusty, at least on the suspension and lower hull.

Lee Metford05 Nov 2012 12:01 a.m. PST

Check out the Pendraken forum for speed painting 10mm's. Maybe
nothing specific for WWII Russians but the techniques will apply

Martin Rapier05 Nov 2012 3:18 a.m. PST

German infantry are bit harder to speed paint as they insist of having lots of multi-coloured bits of kit strapped to thier backs.

u coat black, heavy drybrush of VJ 'German uniform', boots & webbing black, breadbag tan or olive green (as are anklets if worn), mess tins black, field grey or stone grey; e-tool and bayonet black with wood handles, zeltbahn green/red brown splinter. Helmet some sort of field grey or grey+mud or helmet cover. Some kind of wash is useful, black or dark brown.

German tanks in sand/green/brown often like a W/N peat brown inkwash and a light drybrush of a very, very pale colour to bring out the panel lines. I often use white, but be careful if using white.

All tanks benefit from a lot of mud drybrushed around the running gear.

alan L05 Nov 2012 3:36 a.m. PST

Many thanks.

Sorry - only verified members can post on the forums.