"to mount or no" Topic

I need some advice. I have completely embraced the old school, turns out this was exactly the type of hobby I was looking for all along over 35 plus years. Shiny figures, stylized/simplistic scenics, collecting, scratch building etc. almost like a folk art. I also have adopted the use of "All the Kings Men" rules but doubled the size of the units using 30mm Spencers. I envision battles with 10 to 15 units per side with a healthy proportion of horse and using the measued ranges as they are in the rules. I find the spencers to be rather robust and stable and am not wanting to mount them at all.,,,,,,,but, how much belly-acheing do you think I would suffer if I went on the road and hosted a game or 2 at a con. I'm looking at 6-7 infantry regiments of 24, some cannon, 3-5 horse squadrons of 12 and a lite unit or 2. so around 200 30mm tinsoldiers to move on the "green mile green" per side. I do NOT want to mount them and I loath and despise flock (aint gonna happen) gentlemen, respectable thoughts and ideas? (Austrians are almost done, 180ft, 60hrs, 4 cannon when complete, half are painted,,,,,and shiny as a baby's pitoo-ee.)

Why not just use movement trays. The idea of moving more than 200 figures individually really would turn me off the idea of playing almost. If you got movement trays and sprayed them the same colour as the bases the figures are on now you would probably not even notice it.

If they'll stick to magnetic sheets you could just cut out a bunch of similar size sections and stick the unflocked figures directly to them for ease of movement.

It wouldn't bother me, but it would be off-putting to some. I second the idea of magnets and movement trays.

Another vote for movement trays – I have started to mount my figs on multi-figure bases, given that my Russian SYW army now has 9 24-fig infantry battalions and 8 12-fig cavalry regiments – and it is the smallest of my four armies! But I think that the movement trays are a good option if you don't want to multi-basd your figs

I agree with movement trays…moreso because of the wealth of Napoleonic plastics I have been slowly building French and British forces. Because both armies are currently small, I've been gaming skirmish scenarios which are definitely better with individual bases, yet each unit has it's own tray completed for the end goal of massive battles…but I'll still be able to skirmish!

hmm- thinking of a type of tray with raised edges that would hold 2 ranks of 12 with the drum and colors to the front singly and the officer to the side, turn the tray sideways and re-arrange into 6 ranks of 4 for a column. then all that needed to be moved was the tile….carefully….

Bonjour Clays Russians,
The lead photo here:
link
and
many photos as you scroll down show magnetic movement trays.
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I made them from Basswood 3/32nd thick x 24" x 3" or 4". The edges are made from Basswood strips 3/32 thick. Wood glue and a weight are all you need for a good fit. Onto the Basswood was stuck magnetic sheet. Infantry are glued to 3/4" fender washers.
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Bon Chance,
Bill

Clay, you may find this helpful.

link

bingo, vielen danke'

I hate flock as well. I use stucco with fien quartz sand for texture. Paint Hooker's green and dry brush with Cadmium yellow. Much sturdier.

A friend uses kitty-litter. I haven't determined whether before or after kitty!

I like your style Clay it looks like you have taken to OS with a will.

@Phil Hall nice share mate, I like the way you have incorporated the steal paper and magnetic tape. Put an order in for some myself.

regards
dave
Odd Fellows

Bro and I use circles for the individual figures (18mm diameter in 2mm mdf – warbases, highly recommended) and then these go in movement trays made up of holes – which Games Workshop then did for their LotR rrange.

But Warbases provide accurate laser cut movement trays and the circles, so depending on how you want to base your figures that may work for you.

Personally, I love the individual figure idea, but for a show then some sort of tray will be a good idea.

Good luck.

Phil Hall

Thanks for pointing the original poster to my blog which I hope was useful.

Jim