| brunet | 27 Sep 2012 2:09 p.m. PST |
Which Vallejo colour is most suitable for painting the French Napoleonic equipment as guns, limbers etc |
| Fat Wally | 27 Sep 2012 11:41 p.m. PST |
What size? 6mm, 10mm, 15mm, 18mm, 28mm or bigger? |
| brunet | 28 Sep 2012 2:06 a.m. PST |
15mm (but didn't know that the color changed with teh figure scale??) |
| Nohrmann | 28 Sep 2012 8:18 a.m. PST |
I have used Reflective Green 70890. Cheers Claus |
| Steve64 | 28 Sep 2012 8:54 a.m. PST |
If you have an airbrush – this vallejo combo works well for me. Lt Grey primer 73601 (airbrush)
Base coat – camo light green 71006 (aribrush)
Sepia shade – 73300 (dab on light with a big brush)
gun barrels – 792 Old Gold (alcohol based metallic)
The camo light green is a pretty intense colour, but the sepia shade takes it down to an excellent light olive green. Works great for 15mm.
Airbrush is a life saver for doing equipment and things with spoked wheels. I just use cheap airbrushes sourced from ebay. |
| Lion in the Stars | 28 Sep 2012 10:14 a.m. PST |
15mm (but didn't know that the color changed with teh figure scale??) Smaller scales should use lighter colors. |
 deadhead  | 28 Sep 2012 2:23 p.m. PST |
Let me add to Lion in the Stars…oh yes, how I agree………..scale is everything in colour. If I was handed a real original pot of French Artillery Green …it is only 20 mins old…it was mixed in 1812 and time travelled….I could not use it on a 28 mm Perry 12 pdr. A full size repro…maybe. Fresh out of the factory though. 54 mm scale…far too intense. By the time you get to smaller scales…you must tone down. "Smaller scales should use lighter colours" he/she said……..work on that principle. Except in blue of course…but that is a different thread…do not get me started on how blue scales down (OK, the reverse applies…but I did say…….do not get me started). I must get a life……..next year, when I retire from surgery. 'er indoors will kill me. |
| le Grande Quartier General | 28 Sep 2012 5:12 p.m. PST |
The blue I use on my French 6mm infantry is several shades lighter than the very dark indigo of the real thing, but on the table from head height it looks like the right shade… |
| Inkbiz | 29 Sep 2012 3:43 a.m. PST |
Bear in mind the softening of colors at smaller scales is merely for aesthetic reasons, as the colors will stand out a but more on the table and not look at drabby or dull/deep as they would otherwise in the regular shade used on larger figures. If you want a real look (the entire 'atmospheric' concept re colors looking more soft at distance, and hence requiring a lighter shade, is 100% false – anyone with training in art and some knowledge of physics would agree) then stick with the exact same color. Example: a British infantryman's red jacket will not look softer or lighter as the distance increases between you and him..it simply appears darker in color as the distance increases. Now, that being said, it does not look very appealing to have a bunch o darklyf muddled figures loping about your gaming table, so everything the above gentleman posted is correct for aesthetic purposes. A slight touch of white to soften whatever base color you are using works fine for this effect. Cheers,
Bin |
| Green Tiger | 01 Oct 2012 4:23 a.m. PST |
Dear Dead Head – They didn't do a pot of green paint – you got yellow and balck and mixed it together yourself so you can actually paint them any shade of olive green you fancy … |
paints brigs for the British fleet.
