"Osprey/Warlord Bolt Action Rules Book review" Topic

Bolt Action Book Review

I picked up a copy of Warlord Games' new Bolt Action WWII rules at Historicon last weekend. I have read through the book several times now, and although I have not played the game yet I am going to give a quick overview of what is in the book, the basic mechanics, and my take on the game.

First, the book was written by Alessio Cavatore and Rick Priestly. With that in mind, I think it is fair to say that the game is a mixture of Warhammer 40k mechanics along with some Warmaster-like mechanics, with some new mechanics added to the mix. The result is a system that is at once quite familiar yet different from its antecedents. A game figure scale is not stated anywhere that I could find, but it is obvious from the pictures that the rules are primarily intended for 28mm miniatures. I believe the rules would work fine for other scales although multi-based infantry figures would require casualty caps or the like.


The book's layout and presentation is superb. It is full color, hard bound, and weighs in at 216 pages. There are color plates and excellent photographs of well painted miniatures and great terrain throughout the book. The book's contents consist of the game rules, scenarios, and reasonably detailed late war army lists for the US, UK, Germany, and the Soviet Union. In general the rules are very well-written and easy to follow and understand. I had very few questions while reading and saw few, if any, typos.

So, how does it play? The game is played with a randomized alternating activation system. Both players place a single "order dice" in a cup for every unit in their army. Each player's dice should be a different color, for example Player A has Green Dice and Player B has Grey dice, etc. Order dice are drawn one at a time from the cup and the player whose dice it is gets to activate a unit. This continues until all order dice have been drawn, and then a new turn begins. ON a side note Warlord games will be selling special order dice, of course, though normal dice can be used without problem.

When a unit is activated, the player then has a choice of six orders to issue. The orders are: Fire, Advance, Run, Ambush, Rally, or Down. Fire means shoot without moving. Advance allows for a move and fire (at a penalty), Run is a double move. Ambush is basically overwatch, allowing a unit to interrupt enemy movement to fire at the moving unit. Oddly, an ambushing unit cannot shoot first at a unit which fires on it. A Rally order is to remove Pin markers (discussed below) and Down is an order to take cover.

Movement is pretty simple: 6" for an advance and 12" for run for infantry. Vehicles are typically 9"/18". Weapon ranges are also very familiar: rifles are 24", machine guns 36", for example.

Combat resolution is very simple. For infantry, roll a die (d6) for every firing model. (Note there are assault weapons, etc, that get more that one die per model, usually at a reduced range.) A 3 or better causes a hit. Modifiers include a -1 for moving and shooting, for soft cover, for the target unit being "down" etc. Modifiers are cumulative. Take the number of hits and then roll for damage. The casualty roll is based on the target's troop rating of inexperienced, regular or veteran. In experienced troops are damaged on a 3 or better, regular on a 4 or better, and veterans on a 5 or better, somewhat like the Flames of War shooting system. There are no armor saves, only the roll to hit and the damage roll. The player on the receiving end of the shots chooses his casualties. One wrinkle is the "exceptional damage" rule, which holds that you re-roll any natural "6s" and if you get a further "6" you can pick the enemy squad's casualty. If a unit takes more than 50% of its current number as casualties, a morale check is made. A morale check is made on 2d6 against the unit's morale value. Inexperienced morale is 7 or less; regular, 8 or less; veteran 9 or less. A failed morale check will remove the unit from the table.

Against vehicles you make a die roll, adding a weapon's Penetration value, against the target's Armor value. For example, if shooting at a T-34 with a PzIV, you would roll a d6, adding +6 for a Heavy Anti-Tank Gun, against the T-34s' medium tank Armour value of 9+. If you rolled a total of 9 or more, you cause damage and roll on the damage table. A roll of exactly the needed number (9 in this case) would be "superficial damage" and you would roll with a -3 modifier on the table. The table is simple; a 4+ will knock out the vehicle, with lesser results causing havoc of one kind or another. Also, if an AT gun exceeds the score needed by 3 or more, then this is called "massive damage" and two rolls are made on the table.

Close combat is handled very simply, as well. If a unit is within Run distance (usually 12") it can assault. The enemy unit gets defensive fire if they have not previously activated that turn, unless the charge is started from within 6". The enemy unit fire at full effect. Surviving attackers are piled in along with all enemies, meaning that usually all the models in both units will fight. There are no hit rolls, only damage rolls. Attackers strike first. Remaining defenders attack back. The side that causes the most casualties wins, and the loser is destroyed.

Regarding morale, as stated above in shooting and close combat the penalty for failing a morale check or losing a close combat is the destruction of the unit. However, units which take hits but do not need to test for morale take "pin markers" for every casualty instead. Vehicles also get pin markers from being hit by heavy weapons. Pin markers count as a negative modifier against activations. For example, if you draw an order dice and choose to activate a unit with two pin markers, you must make an "order test" at -2 to activate. If you fail, the unit does not activate and instead goes "down". If an order test is passed, the unit acts and also removes a pin marker. If the order test roll is a natural 12 on two dice, a "FUBAR" roll is made with 1-2 being "Friendly Fire" and 3-6 "Panic". Both are very unpleasant.

There are obviously many other rules in the book, covering issues like HQ units, Artillery, Airstrikes, terrain effects, etc. I will not go into all of them here. Suffice it to say they are generally handled in a very simple and fast manner akin to the procedures for shooting, etc. described above. There are also rules for transport vehicles, fighting in buildings, and other special situations.

The book includes 6 basic scenarios to play competitive games of Bolt Action. These are rather standard fare. They include some special rules for hidden units, reserves, etc.

Finally, the book includes rules for force selection and army lists. Typical games of Bolt Action appear to be played with points-based armies using a 1,000 point army as the default. A force must comprise one or more reinforced platoons. Each reinforced platoon must take a minimum of one officer and two infantry squads. Each reinforced platoon can also have a number of support elements, such as 0-1 tank, 0-1 sniper team, 0-1 armored car, etc. You can take multiple reinforced platoons. As 10-man infantry squads costs about 100 points, it appears by my rough calculations that a 1000 point army would likely have 3-4 squads with a vehicle or two in support along with a few other support elements such as MGs, mortars, etc. There are four lists for the late war for Germans, US, UK, and Soviets. There are a good number of infantry and vehicle entries for each army, though Special Rules for particular vehicles and infantry exist, they are at a minimum. Each nationality does get two special rules covering their force. For example, the Germans get "Initiative Training" allowing a new NCO to be appointed on a roll of 4+ if an NCO is squad's killed. They also get "Hitler's Buzzsaw" which gives German MG units an additional shot.

The book ends with two appendices, one providing a brief timeline overview of WWII and some end notes, the other a series of useful game charts summarizing the basic rule. There is no index, alas, although the table of contents at the beginning is fairly comprehensive.

In conclusion, the book is very well written, has superb production values, and is very clear. As I stated above, I have not played the game, but there are very few questions in my mind as to how it plays. Shooting seems very similar to Rogue Trader 40k minus the Ballistic Skill chart and the armor saving rolls. Vehicle shooting is very similar to 3-5th edition 40k but there is only one rather unforgiving chart. Close combat is very deadly but an effective charge looks very difficult to pull off outside of 6" or absent extreme numerical superiority. Perhaps that's as it should be. All of the special rules for artillery, air, etc. are present and tend to be resolved very easily. The main goal of the game appears to be to create a highly streamlined WWII 28mm combats system. It is far less detailed than "Disposable Heroes" for example, but will obviously play much faster. Although it comes with points values and competitive scenarios, there is no reason to my mind that the rules would not work very well for Skirmish Campaigns or other scenario-based gaming options.

I think players looking for an easy, very fast WWII skirmish game will like this rules set. Players looking for a lot of detail, unit differentiation, and charts will likely find it too simplistic for their tastes. More detail may be added by the publication of the dedicated army books for each army starting in the fall, although those who hate the idea of "codexes" for a WWII game will likely not be amused.

For my part, I think the game is going to be a lot of fun. The rules are very easy to learn and remember, provide enough detail to keep me interested, and are playable as designed without neither too many infantry models nor hordes of expensive 28mm vehicles required. I am looking forward to playing very soon. Provisional Grade: B+

-BK

Very nice review. I managed to get a copy of the early shipping pre-orders which is on it's way to me now. I agree that the army books will very likely flesh things out quite a bit, which is fine by me. It will be interesting to see how they will handle the mass variety of armor moving forward as they have such a huge vehicle range. I also hope they will be doing some F0W style campaign books. Fingers crossed that this game turns out to be a huge success!

Thanks for that info. It sounds like I could use these. I am doing WWI skrmish, 1 figure = 1 man, 28mm.With 1 or 2 tanks per side. I am doing Americans vs Germans, and Germans vs partisans.

So models operate in units? I was under the impression based on what I'd read that this was more of a skirmish game-- i.e. where models act individually -- but it sounds like it is not.

Also, do vehicle operate in units or are they units unto themselves?

Finally, you mention an Order Test at one point. I suppose that means when you pull your order dice from the cup you select a unit to act with and there's a chance the unit might not act? Is that correct?

Bede-

1. Yes infantry are in units.
2. Vehicles are unto themselves.
3. If a unit/vehicle has pin markers, it must make a "order test" to activate. If no pin markers, it activates automatically.

Played a quickie demo at Historicon. Rules are written for 25/28mm scale. If you want to use 15mm, change from inches to cm's for measurements. For 6mm, I suppose you could use mm's.

Rules are quick to learn and fun.

This review definitely reinforces my interest in the game. I am thinking of doing it in 15mm, basing infantry individually using my odd bits left-over from FOW. That way, I can use all my existing terrain.

I was wondering, how are support weapons like HMG's and morars based? All crew-served weapons based collectively, or are all crew individually based?

Thanks,
GMB

Rules are written for 25/28mm scale. If you want to use 15mm, change from inches to cm's for measurements.

A 24 inch rifle range is pretty short for 28mm. I'd suggest 15mm keep things as written in the book.

Sounds good. The ranges accommodate ground scale not figure scale so you won't need a 100' table to play. It sacrifices realism for practicality. That's fine.

GreenMountain-

The illustrations in the book show teams as based together, but since they take individual casualties, it would not matter if you based them individually.

So it's basically World War Two-Hammer?? Is that how it plays?

Sounds like it might be simpler than that. No saving rolls. No I go you go.

SB-

Somewhat, and not at all. Like Tom says, activation is totally different. Shooting has no BS, just to hit roll and wound roll has no S vs. T. But the movement values, weapon ranges, and above all vehicle combat are very 40k-esque, I think it's fair to say.

So it's basically World War Two-Hammer?? Is that how it plays?

There are similarities and differences, 40k players should feel comfortable.

You get to play 1000 point games chosen from army lists.
When you activate you make a LD test -1 per pin marker. Veterans are LD 10 I think. Fail and you're hunkered down.
If you activate you can Move/Move, Move/Shoot, or Shoot w/o penalty.
Shooting is BS 4 equivalent. Target save is based on target skill. Veterans save on a 3+ equivalent, aka they die on a 5+. Heavy weapons lower the save. Take a hit and you get a pin marker.
You might choose to rally for extra pin removal, hunker down as a reaction to fire using your activation or go on overwatch.

Way better than Alessio's Mantic rules, troops are removed from the table.

Interesting. I wonder how one could play using your FOW-based infantry sections/squads and their support weapons (mortars, hmg, ATRs)? Having every model in a 15mm squad fire could be quite a paperwork and tracking task. . . . Just thinking out loud.

Shooting seems very similar to Rogue Trader 40k minus the Ballistic Skill chart and the armor saving rolls.

So not similar at all then?

How do the special ability effect game play? You mentioned traits like "Hitler's Buzzsaw" -- how well do those work, and do they add/subtract from game play? Some games have done this trait stuff in the past, and since it's all arbitrary it can skew the game towards certain army lists.

Some games have done this trait stuff in the past, and since it's all arbitrary it can skew the game towards certain army lists.

Which is probably why the Italians won't win in an even fight.

If the trait thing or any special rules are up to players to include or not include, maybe the Italians can win.

Well Piers, there's a roll to hit but everyone is essentially BS 4. Then there are the modifiers to hit, which were in RT but out of current 40k. Then there is a roll to wound, with basically toughness 3,4,and 5 guys vs. a base strength 4. But there is no armor save roll. Draw your own conclusions, mo chara.

I think that the troopers of the Italian Savoia Cavalry were pretty hardcore…do they get a special "kick butt cavalryman" skill??

SB-I told you how it works, German MGs get an extra die. I would imagine that makes their MG teams more effective than other national MGs by a factor of one die. I haven't played it so I cannot say if they traits are unbalancing but from my read they were interesting but didn't seem overpowered.

Well Piers, there's a roll to hit but everyone is essentially BS 4. Then there are the modifiers to hit, which were in RT but out of current 40k. Then there is a roll to wound, with basically toughness 3,4,and 5 guys vs. a base strength 4. But there is no armor save roll. Draw your own conclusions, mo chara.

Haters gonna hate……….

Picked up a copy at Historicon and my quick read suggests I will use the infantry movement, fire, assault and morale rules but import more detailed rules for armor…the BA armor rules are too simplistic…I'm also not crazy about the sighting rule for both infantry and vehicles…put your face down to ground level to determine if you can see the target…I'm not a big fan of complicated sighting rules but that goes too far the other way.

db

Thanks for the run down BlackKnight. Much appreciated.

Quick question – How many points is an average WWII tank worth eg the Sherman or a Panzer IV.

Thanks for a comprehensive and helpful review.

One question, not entirely tongue in cheek – is there on table artillery – can I use an entire battery of 25 Pounders – or is that slightly OTT?

'put your face down to ground level to determine if you can see the target…I'm not a big fan of complicated sighting rules but that goes too far the other way.'

I have to agree with that.

This is a big problem in a lot of rule sets especially when it comes to linear obstacles such as hedgerows etc. Seems strange that in some rules a figure can fire over 3 or 4 linear obstacles just because a player can 'see' an enemy figures' head poking up. As a rule of thumb I allow a unit to 'see' over the first and upto the second obstacle (including any figures taking cover in it) but not beyond it.

Sparker..You have an entire battery of 25 ponders in 28mm???that would be something to see..

all them tables and modifiers sound like fun..and saving throws..

Haters gonna hate………

Bede, please try not too make too many assumptions based on what you think people are saying. I know it shouldnt, but it still annoys me when people assume they know what Im thinking when they clearly dont. Hazard of the internet I guess.

Yes thats why I have it on pre-order… Cos I hate it. :)

I didnt think it sounded much like RT without the table and the saving throw. Sounds like a good fun and fast skirmish game to me. Will fit perfectly with KGN and BGK to use for skirmish games at the club.

Though being like RT wouldnt be a bad thing either as I loved that game when it came out… Warts and all.

Sparker, using the army lists you would have one gun on table per reinforced platoon. You could get maybe two guns on the table if you weren't doing acrobatics with the 1000 point list.

Rat off the top of my head a regular medium tank (you can take them at three different experience levels) is around 200 points.

Hi Lads…had a demo game last week….for me they are the best WW2 Platoon sized ruleset on the market….very streamlined and very subtle with plenty of good solid gaming fun…..I used to play Rules of Engagement and Disposable Heroes…..these are now more to my liking.

The ruleset is not very complicated but manages to pull off good realistic results….the pinning rules and activation work a treat:)

Why make life hard making rules more complicated and pretending that they are more realistic…..for me Bolt Action certainly hit the mark!….Well done to the Warlord lads….10 out of 10!

Paul

Bede, please try not too make too many assumptions based on what you think people are saying. I know it shouldnt, but it still annoys me when people assume they know what Im thinking when they clearly dont. Hazard of the internet I guess.

Piers,

You ought to follow your own advice.

My comment was directed at the people slagging it off because it has some similarities with 40k.

Meow…

So you quote the response to me?

Kinda implies you are responding to me dont it? ;)

Alright lads, let's move on. Anyone want to talk about the rules, then?

Sparker, using the army lists you would have one gun on table per reinforced platoon.

Are you saying that there is on board artillery support, in 28mm, or are you referring to infantry guns/anti-tank guns?

There are single artillery pieces available for on-board action, but they do not fire barrages. By contrast, forward observers can call in barrages.

I ordered the rules a few days ago and I'm hoping to get a bit more mileage out of my FOW bases and vehicles. . .

I can't see any reason the rules can't be played as is with 15mm. Again you'll just need casualty caps for the multi-based infantry. I plan on playing Skirmish Campaigns in 15mm using Bolt Action rules.

I was sent this link yesterday about a lively debate surrounding the rules.

link

and another here

link

They rules certainly seem to be generating a lot of discussion.

I'm not a WW2 gamer however I quite often find myself enjoying periods I'm not into if the rules are fun.

I will be going to the Brisbane Muster where some demo games are being held so I'll reserve judgement till then.

regards
dave

Looks like a really excellent forum, full of people with reasoned, insightful opinions.

Thanks
I have been looking for a review of this and that's given me all i need. I have a lot of 15mm and 6mm WW2 stuff, and use BKC at 6mm. I really like Force on Force as a rule set for gun games, but want a rule set that allows me to use the mortars, etc. i have painted up. So this is a definite possibility.

It looks to me like they have taken Warhammer and tried to modify it to work better. It leaves me in two minds as to whether I will like it, but with overwatch and the initiative system it sounds worth giving a go.

Does the ambush order give the player just one interuption.

Heres a bit of info from Rick Priestley – On the size of games in Bolt Action.

warlordgames.com/24500/rick-priestley-the-size-of-games-in-bolt-action

cheers

WD

Thanks for the review. Picked up my copy at Claymore today. Might have me breaking my one-period-one-scale-rule.

Sparker I am beginning to suspect that you are a closet gun bunny.

Heres a bit of info from Rick Priestley – On the use of morale in Bolt Action.

warlordgames.com/24757/rick-priestley-the-role-of-morale-in-bolt-action

cheers

WD

Looking forward to these. Morale seems to work similar to my Home Brew. I think many people will scratch the ranges in 28mm and just make all rifle caliber bullets table range.