"Removing a snapped 1/32 drill bit?" Topic

I managed to break off a 1/32 bit while trying to pin the fins on one of these: link

It's jammed in there pretty good, and is almost flush with the hole. (which is itself surrounded by the raised back/shoulder armor)

I've tried to dig it out and the most I can do is wiggle it a bit.
I'm out of ideas, therefore I fall upon the infinite wisdom of the TMP hive mind: How do it get that little bastard out?

P.S. Where can I find sturdier 1/32 bits? (since the one that came with my pin-vise was obviously not up to snuff)

Needle Nose Vice Grips might be the tool you need if you can get enough bite to hold on to it.

Last time I broke off a bit I had to drill a parallel hole adjacent and extract it that way.

If you have a dremel, could you grind the bit down flush? It will be a tough job but might be easier than trying to get it out. Second hole to pin.

Probably not a lot of space to work with, but a couple weeks ago I drilled up through the length of a 28mm katana so I could pin it after it snapped off, so I'm sure it can be done. If you like Infinity figs your eyesight must be pretty good :)

Seems like those little drill bits are prone to breaking no matter what they're made of.

Have you tried blu-tak?

Worked once for me (but only once).

I don't have a hive mind, but if this happens to me I get sufficiently down to it to grab some of the end with sharp-nosed pliers and reverse twist it out.

If it'll wiggle it'll come out.

Or just snap off what you can, fill the hole and drill somewhere else for your pin.

Link doesn't work – then again it looks like Sci-Fi so probably best it doesn't

Phil

After drilling and pinning hundreds of models and minis over the years, breaking drills along the way, I have found some "do and don't" rules.

One problem is just by their nature small drill bit are prone to breaking. Cheap ones don't cut well for long and you use more force, they break, expensive ones cut better with less force but with their higher carbon content are more brittle and break.

Solution, take your time concentrate, use a wax (beeswax is good) or soap to grease up the bit and reduce friction. Pull out the drill bit often and clean, let cool, re-wax. This will all help cut down breakage.

I use both dremel, Drill motor, and hand pin vise and they all have different problems and benefits. The Drill motor and Dremel motor have a big problem if not used correctly. The lead shavings will stick to the drill bit because of the heat generated by the speed of the rotating bit and friction and will heat up to the point of melting and then catch an snap the bit off! again go slow and pull out to clean often! I often use a drill press or clamp the drill or mini in a vise so that I only have to control the bit or mini. This helps to keep the hole and mini straight, its often just the slight off center bending that causes the bit to catch and break

Removing a broken one is more "luck" than anything! all the suggestions above may work but the trick is to not break on in the first place!

Bill W

vonKluge all over the net!

Thanks for all the suggestions, I'm sure one of them will work. 

Pliers were one of the first things I tried, but since there's only about a half millimeter of paper thin metal sticking out of the hole, nothing I have could get a good enough grip, but maybe I'll find something small enough at the hardware store. (I need to go there to pick up a replacement bit anyway) and I'll get some blue tack as well. (I've no idea why I don't keep it on hand; it's just so handy)

The parallel hole idea will probably work, but it's going to be a tight fit and require some resculpting, so I'll leave it for last. (it's a darn sight better than drilling through from the other side though)

And Vonkluge, thanks for the advice,
I don't know why it never occurred to me to lubricate the drill bits, but I definitely will from now on. 
 

If bit is attracted to magnet, and you have a rare earth magnet, try twisting the magnet over the bit to back it out far enough to grip with your needle nose pliers or side cutter.

You could try applying a tiny drop of superglue to a wire of the same approximate diameter ( a paperclip, for ex) and attempting to glue it to the end of the bit, but not (and this is the tricky bit!) the model. Once dry you may be able to very carefully back it out.

Well, I have alloy tube which has a 1/32 hole (which I use with 1/32 wire to make struts, gun barrels etc.) _or you could drill a 1/32 hole in the end of a plastic or wargame metal prod and glue either over the end of the stub …

You could heat up your tools which would make it easier to extract the broken drill (which will not soften as much) …

… but I must say I've never found it necessary to go to such elaborate lengths …

Ah well …