| Le General | 05 Feb 2012 12:16 p.m. PST |
I am new to painting metal figures And specifically 15mm. I used to just paint Airfix with one colour. (but I want to do a better job now. Are there any tutorials or guides on here how to highlight items such as tunics and trousers in 15mm. I don't know where to start. I have looked on here and Googled to no avail. |
| RittervonBek | 05 Feb 2012 12:32 p.m. PST |
Have a look at Gunfreak's post "back to painting muskets" – he has a link to his blog showing some excellent 10mm work which should give you an idea how to go about it – two tone colours and dark grey instead of black. |
| War In 15MM | 05 Feb 2012 12:57 p.m. PST |
While I don't claim to be an authority on painting, I have painted more than 27,000 15s, and I am told they look pretty good. After primering, I paint the entire figure black and then lay the colors on in segments in order to retain some the black background paint particularly along seams, in the deep rolls/gullies of fabric, and between color areas (shirt and pants separation for example). Once the colors have been put in place, I mix white with each color I wish to highlight and then lay the highlight color on the high points for that color area. You'll have to test to make sure you haven't added too much or too little white to the color but it won't take too long to get a feel for that. The key is don't over do it. When you finish. the colors will pop and I mean that in a good way. It really makes an otherwise dull figure come to life. You can see my figures in the 11 galleries at warin15mm.com |
| Swampster | 05 Feb 2012 1:15 p.m. PST |
link has some ideas which may help. The thing which I have found helps is the colour choice. Too similar for highlight and base and you needn't bother. Too different and it looks like 1950s curtains. To make life a bit easier, instead of a three colour shade/base/highlight, paint the base a little lighter than you want for the final colour and give it a wash with a suitable colour. You may like a black wash for, say, French blue or go for a blue wash. That is down to personal preference. Paint white breeches in grey and possibly give a darker grey wash. Then experiment to get the shade of highlight you like. Alternatively, some companies produce sets of colour with matched highlights. I often use Foundry colours because I forget what highlight I've used in the past and don't remember to write it down most of the time! The highlighting is then easier than you might think. Look for the points which would catch the light the most. Leave a gap between the highlight and facings – it helps to emphasize them. Do a sample figure first. Doing a whole batch in the colour you thought would work and finding that it doesn't is very disheartening. Check the colour after it has dried in natural light too – your painting lamp may alter it. Experiment! |
| Frothers Did It And Ran Away | 05 Feb 2012 2:48 p.m. PST |
You could do worse than have a look at the pics on the Macphee's Miniature Men blog – he does great 15mm naps. |
| Le General | 05 Feb 2012 3:20 p.m. PST |
Thanks guys some good tips and link here. What does "wash" mean ? |
| andyfb | 05 Feb 2012 3:36 p.m. PST |
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| Swampster | 05 Feb 2012 4:05 p.m. PST |
A wash is where you use something which covers much more thinly and almost transparently. This can be a varnish with some colour added, one of the 'dip' products like Army Painter's, some kinds of ink or one of the newer products like Games Workshop's washes. link explains them. I like the last of these – they are pricier than some other options but I like the consistency and the matt finish. Vallejo also do a good range. The point of a wash or inks is that it collects more in folds etc, creating shadows. They also stain to a greater or lesser degree i.e. some more than others. For some medieval figures I've just painted, they were undercoated in white then I washed with grey or siena to give a dirty woolen look with shaded areas. |
| Scale Creep Miniatures | 05 Feb 2012 4:15 p.m. PST |
You can also make your own wash with paint or ink thinned with water. i make all my own washes. |
| Oh Bugger | 06 Feb 2012 9:01 a.m. PST |
I'm sure that there are many fine ways to do this. Currently I am using a new (to me) technique. Undercoat in white. Block colour your figure and then apply a coat straight from the bottle of Windsor and Newton Nut Brown ink. Set aside and leave to dry overnight. The ink flows into all the hard to paint nooks and crannies of the figure and makes areas of detail stand out more. Straps, buttons and all become much easier to paint. Then highlight your block colours just a shade lighter. The results are very good and quicker than some of the methods I have used in the past. |
| Le General | 06 Feb 2012 10:05 a.m. PST |
@Oh  Thanks for that, but what do you mean by block colour ? |
| Oh Bugger | 06 Feb 2012 12:40 p.m. PST |
Just paint for example say the coat red without any attempt to highlight or pick out cross belts or straps or cuffs. I hope I'm being clear tell me if I'm not. As an example I'm painting a Sikh regiment at the moment they are undercoated white. Tommorrow I will paint their flesh, red jackets and blue trousers and turban, black boots and brown musket. Once they are dry on with ink. Then having left them over night I will paint cross belts scabbards, beards, musket barrel and bayonets. |
| Le General | 06 Feb 2012 1:27 p.m. PST |
@ Oh Bleep! Thanks for that, I have got it now. |
| Oh Bugger | 06 Feb 2012 2:04 p.m. PST |
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| julianmizzi | 10 Feb 2012 3:13 p.m. PST |
Here's a blog i did for my russian guard which might help . link good luck |