"Frustration with plastic model kits..." Topic

Well, I've about convinced myself that I should just buy metal vehicles or wait for easy-build varients! :)
I've now tried (in 1/72):

Dragon SdKfz222, – looked great till the first time I picked it up, even glued on a base, and broke off a headlight and a tow hook

RPM Polish Tankietskas – thought I could convert and model one with an open lid, but I had such trouble building it that I'm having to use putty to fill hull gaps,

Pegasus 75mm IG18 – how many parts?!

Zvedza 37mm ATG – nice and simple, right?
I couldn't get the dang parts to stick together…
even with model cement (also tried zapagap and elmers)

Pegasus german Army Truck – nice and easy! Look great!
Now I'll have to build a support unit, as they are my best looking kits! :)

I love the crisp look of plastic kits,
but the tiny parts and my brain seem to be at odds.
even with custom modeling tools.

Anyone else suffer tha malady of loving small early war
gear but not being able to make themm look right?
Any suggestins on other brands for easy build kits?

Chris

I've never had any problems with Airfix, Revell or Hasegawa.

For wargaming purposes, it's always a good idea to leave off some of the really fiddly bits – they'll only get broken sooner or later!

Ooops, work interfered and kept me from posting the pics…
See what y'all think

Chris

Tankietski

222

Pegasus IG

37mm Zvedza

Supply truck

I think most plastic kits are made fairly complex, for people that like to assemble and tinker with things, and then put them on display.

They are definitely not built for wargamers, who want robust models that can be assembled quickly, for the tabletop.

Your completed models look great!
Drilling and pinning parts such as the headlights, rather than relying on the tiny plastic posts will greatly increase the small parts' sturdyness

Kosta

Yes, I couldn't agree more – those models are 'fine' and by fine I mean very good fine.

I have read many accounts of what happens to armoured vehicles in combat and the first things to go are just the same fiddling bits which are coming off in your hands whilst handling your models. Irritating no doubt but Tim is on the money – it shouldn't detract. Think of them like your own brand new 'just-off-the-show-room-floot' car – it needs a scratch or small dent sooner or later to be accepted into the herd and for we owners to calm down.

Certainly agree with you about fiddliness of models and I for one marvel at arbitrary design decisions – why certain parts are separate and others part of a larger mould can be curious and frustrating. Breaking them as you build can send you round the bend.

The advantage for me of plastic models is their conversion capacity. For example, I like my command vehicles to be crewed (commander heads up etc) and that's a lot easier to achieve with a Dragon plastic kit than a metal one.

Keep on keeping on.

Do not give up! Broken bits and such can always be concealed with some simple weathering; mud and dust can hide a great many sins!

For your inspiration:

gallery.me.com/blackwidowpilot

I've been building plastic models since around age 8, so I've learned a few things the hard way. Unless you're building to satisfy the standards of the IPMS, building for wargaming is a simple matter of the KISS Principle. Pegasus, Italeri, Zvezda, and ArmourFast kits go a long way towards keeping it sane while still providing plastic kits suitable for the wargame table that look just fine once they're painted up to a decent standard.

Now if only someone would start churning out some Early War French AFVs and softskins to go with those outstanding Pegasus 1940 French figures…

Leland R. Erickson

Pegasus 75mm IG18 – how many parts?! About a million. But they build up to a sturdy model and fit together nicely.

The key is to leave off stuff that will break off anyway, sort of converting your regular kits into easybuild ones.

Mike "Bunkermeister" Creek

bunkermeister.blogspot.com

Don't give up, over the last few years I have started repainting and basing some plastic models that I built 36 years ago.

As an alternative, if you are wargaming, why not switch to resin or metal kits?

I've been building plstic models for over 40 years and using them for wargaming too. Yes, some are a bit fiddly and it is probably a good idea to leave some of the more delicate bits off for wargaming pieces. But they look beautiful….

The only kit I've had which made me want to jump out of the window in despair was and eastern european model (I forget the manufacturer) of a German K18. Its a gun, at it had 200 pieces, even the breech block was in three parts, and every single part needed trimming to fit. Urgh.

It ended up very pretty though.

Resin and metal are more robust. However, you can minimise "break offs". I spray all my kits with "plastidip" and then matt varnish over that. It creates a strong seal that can deflect things!

Cheers
Jaz
6sided.net/minipics – view wargaming pics, create galleries, share photos with other gamers

BlackWidowPilot:

Do not give up! Broken bits and such can always be concealed with some simple weathering; mud and dust can hide a great many sins!

Thought I recognized that "smile"…useful thoughts, BTW.

Zvedza 37mm ATG – nice and simple, right?
I couldn't get the dang parts to stick together…
even with model cement (also tried zapagap and elmers)

A suggestion here. Some of us old farts cut our teeth on the old Airfix and Revell kits, wehich were hard polystyrene.

Newer kits, like Zvezda, do not seem to be made from stright old school polystyrene, It is more likely ABS plastic.
Try using the MEK solvent that is recommended for the Plastruck line oof ABS plastic.

Thought I recognized that "smile"…useful thoughts, BTW.

Well, until Bill comes up with a "Kzinti smile" emoticon, this will have to do!

Leland R. Erickson

P.S. Inspired by all of this and other threads, I added more photos to the old album, including my RAFM Miniatures AB40 and AB41 Autoblindados:

gallery.me.com/blackwidowpilot

I hate building kits. Hate it. So many fiddly bits totally unsuitable for wargaming. Even having bases won't help as you'll still naturally grab the vehicle anyway. The Czech based companies are probably the worst IMO with a ridiculous amount of pieces for some fairly basic models. At least they are not like some of the 28mm guns which come with a heap of pieces and no instructions.

TBH I quite often leave off or break off protruding bits of simply because I know they'll break off eventually anyway.

The answer to this is stowage. Cam nets can hide all manner of sins. :]

I have had nothing but trouble trying to put together the Revell 170mm gun. So much so that I put it aside until the weather gets warmer and I can spend more time assembling it.

Thanks to all for the hints and help!
I'll keep attacking the kits, and start a list of
which manufacturers seem to work best for me.
(eventually a blog may be in order)!
Nice to hear that others have the same problem…
building model rockets as a kid didn't have as many
problems… they just blew up differently! :)
I especially like the idea of using camo netting etc to help hide oopses!

Chris

Armourfast. Simple to make and very sturdy!

Frontline resin vehicles and those of Minimi and Britannia solved my kit building problems…..I still dip in occass
ionally with an easy kit (Pegasus Maus and the BA7 armoured cars..)

I have a Revell model of the German 170mm gun sitting on my workbench. The reason that its sitting there is there are so many parts and they are scattered all over different spruces.
I have found the directions to be less than clear also.
I have built models for over 50 years but this is just a giant pain.

Some fine parts just HAVE to be replaced with metal for wargaming. Light gun barrels with wire, etc. Smaller artillery is often more worthwhile being done in white metal. One can only repair a US 37mm gun so many times!

Wow. Trying to shop for kits that won't set you back $300 USD per company at 1/72 is nigh on impossible.