"super glue?" Topic

why do I have so much problems with super glue, is there an alteritive?

I never use super glue. Depending on what I am sticking to what I use:

PVA
UHU
2 part epoxy (aka Araldite in the UK)

What kind of problems do you have? What are you using it for?
There are different kinds that work better for certain applications. The super thin runs all over the place but sets the fastest. There are a few grades that get thicker and they don't set quite as fast. For resin and metal, I use superglue. For plastic, I always use modeling plastic cement.

Just another mid-life brain "phrrrt" here, or do I recall a TMP thread about a year or so ago that discussed "less toxic" (in general) adhesive options?

TIA

Never had any real problems with superglue apart from sticking my fingers together and on one bizarre occasion sticking it to my teeth and tongue while talking to a friend on the phone [the answer is to keep talking!!]

I find superglue gel really useful for holding bits in place that would otherwise need ages held by my fingers before the glue sets.

I also found that while it sticks balsa wood really effectively it does make it burn when the wood gets stuck to your hand

I've used superglue gel exclusively since it was introduced in the 80s and I've never had a single problem

Define your problems, and perhaps we can help.

I use Krazy Glue. I've used it for decades. Generally sticks quickly and holds well. The only time I experience problems is cold weather. I work in the garage and in the garage the cold weather can impact the time the glue takes to set. The hold is lasting. Over the last 30 years I put together a collection of more than 27,000 15s with lots of modifications and the only glue I've used is Krazy Glue. None have come apart. You can see the results in the galleries at warin15mm.com/index.html. Richard

I prefer Superglue for my fingers. It kills the pain from cold weather/wet weather cuts/cracks on the tips of my fingers. Sometimes a fail is a win.

Alasterj … hummmm
I glue metal parts together after some time when you would resonabley think its ok test & the part just falls off just hasn`t taken has the area got to be super clean?
only been on tmp 7 or so months Cheriton

I use this and find it fantastic. I buy it from e-bay.

Tony
link

Too much superglue and it doesn't set as fast. You can soak away any excess amount with a tissue. If the part has a really small surface area, superglue may not work well. It needs a really flat surface area to bond two pieces together. Sometimes filing or sanding the areas helps!

Superglue needs heat and huymidity to set properly.
That is why a cold basement in the winter will mean that it takes a very ling time to set.

You also need to pin the part, if possible. CA polymerizes planar. That is why it may be a very good bond in one direction, but has a weak sheer strength perpindicular to the plane.
Kikers, zappers, etc. merely exacerbate that problem. In effect, you have to substrates held tgether mechanically by a mass that is not really bound to either substrate. That is not as much a problem if the substrates have :keys", or slots and tabs. A flat bond will just not hold.

As stated above, "more" is not better.

A good CA to use for modeling metal to metal is Gorilla Glue Superglue. NOT plain "Gorilla Glue".
GGSG contains additives to make the bond less brittle, gut with a longer s=time to set up.

Super Glue is not really "super". It has its uses, but is not for everything. It is definitely NOT for gluing plastics, since there are much better glues for hard plastics.

Your questiion should really be "What is the best glue to use for joining X to Y?", istead of "Is there an alternative?" You seem to be assuming that super glue is supposed to work for everything, and it does not.

Some harder, lighter and shinier metals have that problem. GW is a good example. One time I glued Old Glory and GW figures at the same time and felt like super glue just refused to work on GW figures when it held Old Glory parts in just 5 seconds. Must be something in that lighter/shinier metal or may be it's to/less porous.

One thing worked though. I used tiny amount of white glue on one part, spread with a finger, and super glue on another part. White glue makes it tacky right away and holds hard to glue metal parts whilst super glue is setting.

Superglue needs heat and huymidity to set properly.
You also need to pin the part, if possible. CA polymerizes planar. That is why it may be a very good bond in one direction, but has a weak sheer strength perpindicular to the plane.

Lots of good reasons there for NOT using super glue.

People seem to forget that super glue is not a "panacea for all glues". Different types of glue function in different ways, thus you need to use the right glue for the stuff you are sticking.

Another point is to clean and dry all areas to be joined. Release agents on any of these parts can cause improper bonding no matter what glue you use.

If you're using 18thC superglue, maybe it's gone off.

----
Warren B.
minisculpture.co.uk

I was never a fan of super glue until it was suggested that I try Locite Super Glue Ultra Gel Control. Two things make this a great super glue for the hobby 1. it bonds metal well and 2. the container has squeeze bars on its sides that provide excellent control the flow and amount of super glue gel application.

Go the superglue gel for metal on metal action! BUT you do have to be patient.

Put the gel on both surfaces to be glued then give it a couple of minutes before putting together. Hold in place for another couple of minutes THEN leave overnight or for a number of hours. I find that the bond is excellent from this process.

It is a complete myth that the bond is instant and the marketing is to blame.

Shields and spears are going to come off during battle/march. Not much you can do about that.

For basing pva/wood glue is the best

I'm with ironduke. Went to the loctite stuff and it works great for me. About 4 bucks at Target. It even works on Conte soft figures :)

In this cold dry weather, I glued some Old Glory figures to sttel electric box blanks with cheapo Dollar Tree Super Glue gel. (3 tubes for a dllar!)

When I wnet down cellar the next day, the gel was still moist.
So, I put the batch in a flat metal container, along with a blister of water, on top of the box of my furnace. THAT supplied the needed heat and humidity!

It is a complete myth that the bond is instant and the marketing is to blame.

You got that right.
Back when it first came out, the formulation was methyl-cyanoacrylate. An adhgesives salesman told me that this was the best metal-metal bond, and gave me a sample. He was right. It was really good.
Unfortunately, that formulation was too aggressive. People ended up gluing the darndest things to their bodies! Oddly, CA was originally developed as an alternative to sutures in closing cuts on the body.

So, lawyers made them dummy down the formula to ethyl, rather than methyl. Then they added crap to make sure it didn't bond all that well, and give you working time.
Nowadays, I sometimes think that warm spit will bind better.

I am amazed that people still think that superglue works for EVERYTHING, and bonds instatntly.
There are people whoo use it on hard plastice, and then complain.

Ah so it has changed. I use it for metal only. Thanks to everyone & john OFM in particular thank ee sir.

Superglue is only supposed to stick in one plane. To make it an all round fix, you can sprinkle baking soda onto the glue before it dries. It will also add bulk to it so dont do it if you are expecting the usual disappearing point of stick.

A soldering iron prehaps? That is the way we put together our 30mm's in the 60's (1960's). A little lumpy but a bond for generations.

There are bad batches of superglue, or maybe just bad manufacturers. My 6-tubes-for-a-dollar package from the dollar store gave me a dark, asphalt like gel, instead of the usual, clear, runny superglue. If your problem is recent, try a different brand or tube.
Grelber

My 6-tubes-for-a-dollar package from the dollar store

They also usually only give you enough glue in those six tubes to equal one of the more expesive ones. They work the old 'optical illusion' thing to make it look like you are getting six tubes compared to one in the more expensive looking pack.

I use Elmer's wood glue. It provides a nice hard bond for metal, and dries pretty quickly. It also can be shaped and molded a bit when drying.

For bonding metal to metal I find that superglue is superior to anything, including 2-part epoxy resin adhesives. I've also been using it to bond figures to plasticard bases for years.

Make sure the surfaces are clean, non-porous and a flat join. Try using superglue gel rather than liquid for very fiddly jobs.

I sometimes dispense liquid superglue onto a ceramic tile and apply it with a tooth pick as too much will slow the glue setting.

Also try using an activator/accelerator such as Plastic Mate. Although intended for use with superglue on PVCu I find it makes any superglue go off in seconds on any material.

Using an accelerator weakens the bond (except baking soda).

The most effective way I've seen for gluing models is to:
1) get the area really, really clean (kitchen-degreaser clean).
2) lightly sand the contact surfaces.
3) use the longest pin that will stay in the model
4) use a tiny little dab of green-stuff to hold things together until the thick superglue (or gel) sets
5) the next day, add a drop of super-thin CA to fill in the air pockets.

I'm a big fan of the rubberized super-glue. Great for metal-on metal bonding, and as a plus the rubber compound in the glue makes it much more shock resistant. As a matter of fact, since I switched, I've stopped pinning my models and they still survive travel to and from the club intact.

@Lion in the Stars,

I beg to differ. Cyanoacrylate adhesive and activators/accelerators are used routinely to bond double glazed PVCu door and window systems, cladding and roof trim.

If it works in that environment there is nothing, I think, in our hobby that will challenge it.

Baking soda and cyanoacrylate can be used as a filler and as an additive when bonding porous surfaces but the fumes produced are such that I recommend using something else, like one of the many fillers and other types of adhesive available.

Whenever possible, a few minutes with a pin-vise drill and a stout piece of thin rod set to "pin" the two pieces together will pay dividends later on the war-games table…

I have an answer to the original questioner but it does depend on your ability to acquire the product, Sika make a range of products that are designed to bond irregular and non similar surfaces. Furthermore they do not require surface to surface contact which may aid in using figures which are not compatible height wise (upto 5mm build if I recall correctly), this is an industrial quality product and it does bond extremely well.

For those of you thinking that rebasing would be a problem the compound maybe sliced (leave 1mm of compound for this purpose) with a sharp blade but forgo any idea of ever man handling the figure from the base, the metal will give way before the Sika does. These are flexible adhesives similar to silicone sealants but the similarity ends there.

Financially you may not be prepared for the outlay (I wont quote prices on a international forum) however ask around you might find a friend or acquaintance may be using it in their work place and can supply you with the end of a tube or caulking container, in which case the price is perfect!

Trade name you should look out for is Sika Flex, try glaziers, coach and body builders, larger building sights they may have some ends, or of course buy a tube.

hope someone finds this of use

regards
dave

OK just noticed these post, I guess something to do with the lead content, Paint Pig are you from UK?