Stewbags | 02 Jan 2012 9:41 a.m. PST |
I have a mix of ww2 soviet stuff from JTFM and Bolt Action (pre and post warlord). last night I primed them all with black gesso. They had all been washed in a simple green solution before this. When I primed the JTFM stuff the gesso did not sit right, instead it kept floating and needed to be pushed around a lot until it settled. The resin seems different to the bolt action stuff, which took the gesso fine. This is not a complaint, both brands are fab models and I could not be happier with them, just wondering if I am missing a trick somewhere. Once spray painted wit htheir base colour they all look fine btw, and the spray did not seem to have floated in the same way
. |
Terry L | 02 Jan 2012 10:24 a.m. PST |
I prime all my resin stuff with white flat spray paint. Works really well. |
idontbelieveit | 02 Jan 2012 10:25 a.m. PST |
I don't yet have any JTFM stuff. I've been priming resin with the krylon paints that claim to be especially suited for painting plastics and it seems to be fine. |
MajorB | 02 Jan 2012 10:28 a.m. PST |
I prime all my models, resin, metal or plastic with Humbrol matt white enamel. Works fine. |
FireZouave | 02 Jan 2012 12:24 p.m. PST |
Did you wash the resin first? Sometimes they use a release agent that doesn't take paint well! |
thejoker | 02 Jan 2012 1:52 p.m. PST |
Always wash my resin items in hand hot soapy water, dry thoroughly then spray with flat black VHT paint (car paint for things that get hot.) |
IWillNeverGrowUpGames | 02 Jan 2012 3:32 p.m. PST |
JTFM Has a Hints and Tips section on their website that addresses this issue with their resin. link They suggest using a plastic primer or an enamel first (after washing thoroughly of course) before using your favorite primer. |
johnnytodd | 03 Jan 2012 3:52 p.m. PST |
I've had the same observation with JTFM and BA resin vehicles. I have found that the best primer to use with fussy resin is lacquer based – testors makes it in a spray can & some automotive spray primers will also have lacquer base. Try your auto parts store. |
XV Brigada | 03 Jan 2012 4:08 p.m. PST |
Modern acrylic gesso is water soluble and like water soluble acrylic paints it will sometimes not take to resin surfaces. Even if it does there is a danger of delamination later on. My advice it to prepare all resin models with a white spray primer undercoat and allow it to dry thoroughly. |
Disco Joe | 04 Jan 2012 8:04 a.m. PST |
I use Testor's Primer on mine and it works well. |
Jemima Fawr | 04 Jan 2012 8:08 a.m. PST |
I've never washed a model in my life and have never had paint-lifting problems. I use a 50/50 Humbrol enamel/turps mix to prime my models and it works like a dream. |
Stewbags | 04 Jan 2012 10:10 a.m. PST |
thanks guys, I did not spot the JTFM faq's. Sooo water based is a no no, home it stays in place as i have now painted over it. Will spray prime from now on, think I have some grey primer somewhere already. |
BrianH | 31 Oct 2012 12:55 p.m. PST |
I have also had trouble with resin. I had some JR Miniatures 15mm resin rail fences. I washed them with Pine Sol and water, let them dry, and spayed them with Karolin flat black solvent based primer then sprayed them with Army Painter (enamel?) brown and black-washed and dry-brushed. First game I sued them when one of them got tipped over on to the terrain mat some of the paint flaked off. I stripped the paint off (25% came of with a stiff nail brush) and have re-primed with flexible Auto Primer. Perhaps I should also be roughing the surface (which is shiny) with very fine sandpaper. Anyone else had this problem? |
Etranger | 31 Oct 2012 10:23 p.m. PST |
That can happen if there was some moisture present that didn't fully dry between coats, which can make the paint 'brittle' (there's probably a better term!). And sometimes the primer just doesn't take on the surface. |
TheWarStoreSweetie | 01 Nov 2012 10:44 p.m. PST |
When priming with gesso, it helps to mix it 1:1 with Glass and Tile medium from Folk Art. It helps the gesso to be less flexible and give it more tooth. |