Ok, this is just a 12-step idea that occurred to me:
1) As has been hinted above, look at that floor style and see if an existing styrene tile floor (Evergreen, Plastruct, etc.) has that general look already. Here's an example of one of those tile floor sheets:
link2) In your selection process, make sure to pick out the thinnest sheets possible with the tile style you decided to use.
EDIT – If you prefer a floor surface with grating instead of tile, get to the craft store and look for 14-mesh granny grating (plastic canvas) instead:
TMP link
I used the 16-mesh plastic canvas (bigger holes) for my 30mm Aliens a while back:
link
TMP link
In hindsight, I found out that if you choose a lighter color of plastic canvas, it will be easier to trace outlines on the surface.
3) Go to your local craft store and look for:
a) Circular cardstock hole punches that are slightly bigger than the diameter you need for your existing washers, the more rugged the hole puncher the better. Here's a light duty example:
b) Also, get hold of a rectangular hole punch that will be roughly the size of the cast-on bases that come with your figures. Again, pick the most heavy-duty one you can find. Here's an example of one of those rectangular punches:
link
link
4) Cut as many circular holes as you can out of the styrene sheet.
5) Position the circular piece of styene over your washer or base of choice. Then sit your figure where you want it to be on that circle.
6) With a pencil, outline the area covered by the cast-on figure base. Then, put the rectangular punch over that outline, and punch a rectangular hole within that outline*. If you keep each styrene tile circle next to its corresponding figure during the entire process, you should be able to do an assembly line of sorts. You can even number the underside of the figure and the underside of the styrene tile circle to make sure they don't get separated.
7) The key is to cut out as little of the styrene as possible. So, my suggestion is that, if the outline drawn is bigger than the rectangular punch size, trim or sand the edges of the cast-figure base to fit the rectangular hole. Otherwise, you will have to continue cutting the styrene outside of the rectangle and that will make you lose a lot of the tile surface effect. Of course, there will be times when you will have to expand the hole made by the rectangular punch.
8) When ready to glue the figure to the washer, go ahead and place the tile circle over that and, with a thin marker, mark where the figure will sit on the washer. Then fix the figure in place with a thin layer of GreenStuff or something else that will allow you to trim excess after it sets. Remove excess when dry.
9) When that is done, take the styrene tile circle and, with a hobby knife cut a line from the rectangular hole to the outer diameter, following the indentations of one of the lines of tiles. If you choose not to do that, you can make the cut irregular in a place where you would like a floor crack to exist.
10) Finally, place over the surface of the washer a thin layer of GreenStuff or your putty of choice. Carefully slide the styrene circle so it fits snugly around the cast-on base of the figure. With your fingers or a thin ruler, press down to either side of the figure, until you sink it down as level as possible.
11) When that sets, trim the excess putty that comes out of the hole and whatever excess there might be around the washer.
12) With a light file, sand around the base to make sure that the tile circle does not extend beyond the diameter of the washer.
What do you think?
Thanks,
Dan
* If you can't find a rectangular hole punch, you can use a heavy duty version of the small circular hole punches kids use in school, and make two holes instead within the area you outlined with the pencil. Trim the inside of the hole as needed, but try to keep from expanding the hole too much.
promised pictures!
