"hand saw suggestions" Topic

I am debating getting a cordless mini drill with a cutting disc.
However it occured to me that a hand saw may be better.

Can anyone recommened any saws that are good for fine cutting?

Michael.

Hope fully Bill will correct my poor spelling.

Depends on what you are cutting really. If its small parts on models, then a 'razor saw' is probably what you are thinking of. There are several brands – Zona, Exacto and 'house' brands like MicroMark. The Exacto type fit into the heavy duty knife handles that take disposable blades, and the Zona type have a wood or plastic handle permanently attached.

The main problem I've had with razor saws is that they are hard to get started cutting if used like a regular saw, they are so sharp that they will cut quite happily on the pull stroke like a Japanese saw, and are much easier to control.

If you are cutting larger pieces like terrain, then look for a 'Gent's saw' – it looks like a big razor saw with a door knob on the end, but it works like a reglar saw as the blade is thicker. Prices vary greatly, often for the same brand between retailers.

The other advantage of hand saws is that they don't fling the bit you weren't holding around the room at high speed – DAMHIK ;-)

I worked as a silvercutter for three years during my university days. I still have my jeweler's saw and a large selection of blades (2, 1, 0, and 00) that I use for figures. For me, no other saw type is as useful for fine cutting on figures.

Depends on what you are cutting.
For most of what I have needed, either a coping saw or razor saw do the trick.

The problem with a cutting wheel on something like a Dremel tool is that they slightly more difficult to use accurately. Also if you are cutting resin, they create a lot of extra dust. For some plastics, they get hot enough to melt the plastic (again with the bad fumes, like the resin dust.)

How does this look Princeps?

link

Razorsaw.

Thank you Bill!

Yep, that is not a jeweler's saw, which looks like a coping saw.

I would recommend getting both a jewelers saw and a razor saw.

The Jeweler's saw is shaped like a coping saw as Princeps mentions.

The blade is nice and narrow, so you can cut pretty tight curves. You can also get an assortment of blades for cutting a variety of different materials.

The razor saw is better suited for straight cuts.

The back of the saw prevents the blade from bending, and you can quickly cut straight lines on a variety of softer materials (wood, white metals, plastic, resin, plaster…). It is very handy when scratch building terrain and doing things like cutting miniatures in half to swap bodies and arms (the joint is nice and flat which can make mating things up easier).

I use both a fair bit, but each has their own specific strengths and weaknesses. If I had to get just one – I would get the razor saw – though that is mainly because I have taken to use my rotary tool and scroll saw for things that I used to use the jeweler's saw for.

There are a lot of other cutting implements out there though – so it would be good to know what type of fine cutting you are looking at. There is a big difference between finely cutting apart vehicles and miniatures for conversions, cutting windows and doors out of flat stock, or creating duplicate parts reliably. Each task has a tool which is better suited than others for the given project.

I am looking at mainly straight cuts through plastic and lead for the most part.

It will be 1/300th aka 6mm figures and terrain so the teeth need to be nice and close to get a smooth cut.

In that case, you will likely be best served with the razor saw.

Remember though, a smooth cut isn't simply a matter of the number of teeth. Something like a hack saw blade with a lot of teeth provides a relatively rough cut. However, my bandsaw resaw blade has only got 3 TPI, and it provides me wood that needs minimal sanding or planing for finish use.

Anywho, make sure the saw you choose has a narrow kerf and no tooth set. An aggressive set allows for faster cutting but leaves a rough cut.

Saw this in a shop today, good size.

auction

Are these blades universal in fit do you know?

I wouldn't say universal – but there are only a few ways to skin this particular cat. X-ACTO (sort of rounded) uses a different shank style than Zona (flat). In many cases though, the blades are not replaceable.

In terms of the particular saw you linked to – without using language which is not fit for a family friendly site like this…I would skip that one in particular. GF9, like so many other companies, takes a readily available item and mark it up two or three times (twice in this case). For the same price, you can get both a razor saw and a jewelers saw – with money left over for the gumball machine.

Indeed, my local store had it cheaper than the others there for a change.
GF9 are NOT cheap for anything as far as my wallet stretches.

I will go for a known make like x-acto, I have enough of their knives and am happy with them.