Psyckosama | 16 Oct 2011 7:18 a.m. PST |
Due to the messed up mispost of my last post
I'm going to repost it. Well I've been bugging people for opinions long enough so I'd like to just post up what I've been working on. Still have a bunch of Germans and another tank to go, but tell me what you think so far!
Pics came out a bit dark. It's lighter in person. |
28mmMan | 16 Oct 2011 8:52 a.m. PST |
Can I ask without being hated
but the actual model, the upper edges of the tank
the surface looks a bit
soft. Almost as if the surface was made of uncured clay rather than metal. No sharp edges or defined lines. If this is the model then it is what it is, perhaps a few detail pieces added on that have fine edges would create the effect of distracting the eye? As for the intended use, it looks like a great fit with your miniatures. The dark image, I am no photo expert and I am sure one of our TMP brothers is and will pipe up soon, but I would avoid the light/flash sucking elements of the back and side cracks
use a large sheet of white paper and lay it down so it is continuous from top to bottom leaving a rounded back edge..and if you can use a shielded light (a bright lamp with a sheet of paper over the direct focus) it will help. Looks good as a whole! |
28mmMan | 16 Oct 2011 8:57 a.m. PST |
That is an imposing main gun. |
Gunner Dunbar | 16 Oct 2011 9:50 a.m. PST |
yeah the gun came out great, it is very dark, but cameras can do that, I agree, add more stuff to it, stowage bins ect, good so far. |
DyeHard | 16 Oct 2011 11:14 a.m. PST |
I may be wrong on this, but I think the Jaguarundi is meant to be a model of a very late war German experiment at making tanks out of concrete instead of metal. As the resources were being cut off, it was harder to get the metal needed for tanks. I use to be a tank nut, but have lost most of my references. Hence the very intentional soft edges. I think this photo will show that:
Another example of proposed German tanks with alternative armor systems:
Personally, I think can add to the Sci-Fi feel of this model as one can speculate on some form of ceramic foam or plati-steel armor might be developed for lighter vehicles. |
28mmMan | 16 Oct 2011 11:17 a.m. PST |
Interesting point. Concrete tank
wacky. |
Augustus | 16 Oct 2011 7:37 p.m. PST |
Neato Psyckosama! That Panther is just beautiful. Shermans often sported poured concrete armor as well as whatever anyone could find to help the poor things. Foamed ablative armor is something being looked at by DARPA supposedly. As I understand it, it is to make "true" airdroppable armored vehicles. Of course, one wonders about the airborne aspect considering dropping anything has gone out of fashion. |
Psyckosama | 16 Oct 2011 8:27 p.m. PST |
I'd like to use this for the symbol on the vehicles and the like. link Any ideas how to put that one them? |
28mmMan | 16 Oct 2011 8:49 p.m. PST |
Print them on decal paper and apply. link |
Psyckosama | 17 Oct 2011 6:53 a.m. PST |
Problem is those sheets probably won't show up well against the blackish background of my tanks. |
28mmMan | 17 Oct 2011 11:53 a.m. PST |
You need real advice from armor painters, which I am not. But I do have experience with black hull boats. I usually paint a place marker in white then lay the numbers/image directly over the same. So paint a same size white spot then slide on the decal? |
DyeHard | 17 Oct 2011 2:14 p.m. PST |
Being a modeler as well as painting miniatures, Perhaps I can help: As most printer do not print in white, a home printed decal would be lost on the dark background. The trick is to paint a white area on the model before applying the decal. You can solve several problems at once here. The rough surface is not ideal for a decal. Paint on a nice thick layer of a glass white paint. Perhaps a unthinned hobby enamel. The thick gloss will fill in the detail and make a good surface to receive a decal. It might take more then one coat of the gloss paint. To avoid the hassle of getting decal paper and the added painting. You can do it the old fashion way. Mod-Podge. link The basic idea is you have something printed on paper you would like as a decal. Paint it with Mod-Podge, cut it to size, soak it to soften the paper, rub most of the paper away and glue it to the model (Mod-Podge again). Here is the first web ref I found, Just substitute the word "Model" for "egg" PDF link Bryan
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Psyckosama | 17 Oct 2011 7:58 p.m. PST |
Considering that the background on those insignia is white
Makes it much easier. |
kabrank | 18 Oct 2011 6:11 a.m. PST |
Hi All Back to history. According to Jentz Panzer Tracts the "Jaguarundi" hull was designed by Porsche and was to be of cast armor hence giving the slightly rounded and rough effect on the model [rather like the M4A1 or cast Russian Turrets] Cast armor was intended to provide improved protection over the rolled armor used in the later war Panzers. Concrete was used as a field applied addition armor by the Allies and Germans but was heavy for the protection given and tended to be applied by crews when additional metal was not available. Hope this helps |
Psyckosama | 18 Oct 2011 10:21 a.m. PST |
Anyone want the quicky conversion instructions? |
Psyckosama | 18 Oct 2011 6:57 p.m. PST |
which of these do you think my tanks look better with?
Or any other ideas and anyone have any pics of either of these with rulers? Looking for an APC next. |
(I make fun of others) | 19 Oct 2011 5:22 a.m. PST |
Those are really splendid 1946 type vehicles DyeHard (or post 1946 one assumes). I think the bottom one is based on a video game or an animated film? Do you know which one? |
Legion 4 | 24 Oct 2011 8:24 a.m. PST |
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(I make fun of others) | 24 Oct 2011 8:59 a.m. PST |
Psyckosama, the models look pretty nice -- what colours do you intend to paint them? |
BlackWidowPilot | 24 Oct 2011 11:09 a.m. PST |
Karkwagen. The halftrack while nice is too techy compared to the Jaguarundi, while the Karkwagen has a more gritty look in line with the '46 concrete panzer design. Just my two yuan's worth. Leland R. Erickson
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DyeHard | 03 Nov 2011 11:04 a.m. PST |
Just as a follow up, here are some period drawings of the Type 245 on which the model is based. Scroll to bottom: link |
nvdoyle | 03 Nov 2011 7:07 p.m. PST |
Anyone want the quicky conversion instructions? Yes, please! |
Psyckosama | 03 Nov 2011 10:33 p.m. PST |
PMed them to you. If you'd be so kind as to repost them here I'd appreciate it. |
nvdoyle | 04 Nov 2011 3:29 a.m. PST |
Reposting at Psyckosama's request: Well it's rather simple actually. The gun is off a dollar store robot trimmed to fit with the "prongs" on the front cut off and the barrel drilled out. The vehicle is actually backwards with the paneling on the rear sanded down and a piece of plasticard taken off a for sale sign trimmed and glued in place (I suggest you place it first then run some superglue down it) and the eye is a piece of old GW sprew sanded to git at an angle. THe side skirts are plasticarf strips that were glued in place, trimmed to fit once they were secure, then the lines were carved in with a utility knife. |
nvdoyle | 04 Nov 2011 3:31 a.m. PST |
DyeHard, where'd you get that modded Panther? |
DyeHard | 04 Nov 2011 11:38 a.m. PST |
I did an image search. I do not recall which modeling form it is from. Perhaps Missing Lynx? missing-lynx.com |