"Foamcore" Topic

Hello all,
Well, I just have one basic question and that is how do you get the paper backing off? I tried peeling and it just left a bunch of residue. Any tips?
For that matter, any general foamcore tips would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks
Mike

Why would you peel the paper backing off?

People peel off paper on one side so they can carve designs into the foam. As to how it is done, I don't know.

It's not backing. It's the outside!

Oh, my tips --

Use a thick ruler to cut along with your Xacto. That way you get a clean 90 degree cut, rather than a slanted line.

Use standard straight pins at every join, so that when you glue two walls together the bond is strengthened by pins pushed through into one wall. You can leave them in permanently.

Accept that you'll go through blades quickly. A dull blade can be kept for, say, taking flash off figures, but will rip the foamcore in an ugly way.

Use templates for doors and windows – either make your own or use the plastic type from an office supply shop. You just need some different sizes of rectangle and squares.

@Pictors: Yep, I want to carve into it. Ages ago, I had a sheet of foamcore where the backing would just peel off perfectly but the stuff I have picked up recently leaves a lot of papar residue.
@Mexican Jack Squint: Thanks! Never thought about using a thicker ruler. That is a great idea.

If you don't want the paper buy foam sheets. The same stuff minus the paper.

Never tried pulling the plastic surface off--intentionally, at least, so I'm no use to you or this thread.

But everything Mr. MJ Squint said is GOLD.

TVAG

P.S. Can anyone tell me by what name "foam core" is known in the UK/Europe? I prescribe it for most all of my card stock buildings, but it seems hard for Overseas customers to identify it. A fellow in Denmark found it after considerable searching, and it was pricey, so is foam core even available Over There?

And if not, what product could be recommended that has the same standard 3/16" thickness?

T

Perhaps, there is some way to get the glue holding the cladding on to release. Perhaps soak it in water?

The other way is to cut the foam right at the paper foam union. Sort of like cutting the hide off and animal. Start at a corner and peal back the paper as you make slight cuts at the foam right at the union. A scalpel might work but you might be better of with a pathology blade ( link ) or even a microtome blade ( link ).

But you might want to consider finding some foam that is not in a board sandwich to start with.

VAG – generally it is sold as "foam board" about £5.00 GBP per A3 sheet.

link

The stuff without paper is apparently used for flooring and is supposedly available at DIY stores (5,10 and 20mm) – not that I have ever found it…

@Porkmann: Actually, I too have never seen it without the paper backing.
@DyeHard: Hmm giving it a good soak….Good idea!

The water will still leave a blotting paper like "fuzz" on the foam.

I suspect it is heat bonded to the paper.

It depends on the source of the foamboard – some has a more plastic paper on it and peels easily some doesn't! The Black coloured board is better for this.

I always cut deep through the paper and then trace the outline of the area I want exposed then peel – as long as you get most of the outer layer off you can carve what you like.

Hope this helps.

Phil

The stuff without paper is apparently used for flooring and is supposedly available at DIY stores (5,10 and 20mm) – not that I have ever found it…

Its just depron so just buy sheets of that. You dont have to peel anything off it.
P.S. Can anyone tell me by what name "foam core" is known in the UK/Europe? I prescribe it for most all of my card stock buildings, but it seems hard for Overseas customers to identify it. A fellow in Denmark found it after considerable searching, and it was pricey, so is foam core even available Over There?P.S. Can anyone tell me by what name "foam core" is known in the UK/Europe? I prescribe it for most all of my card stock buildings, but it seems hard for Overseas customers to identify it. A fellow in Denmark found it after considerable searching, and it was pricey, so is foam core even available Over There?

Foamboard or Foamcore. But use Depron, no peeling needed, does the same job. score with pen/pencil to make patterns. Depron is more flexible so can do tighter curved shapes also.

Dont know why anybody would peel a part foamcore.

@Porkmann: Actually, I too have never seen it without the paper backing.

No, I wont say it. ;-)

Depron!

OPh, I did. (j.k)

You know these foams are the same thing, just different colour and denseness yes? Change denseness, change name. Same stuff.

@Pictors: Yep, I want to carve into it.

I said above. Depron is friend. ;-0
No bananas needed. ;-0

Place with impossible name sells it all.

What!? No bananas needed…well I'm out. :)
Depron, OK!

Depron eh? Thanks!

Now where do I find it…

you can check this out see if it helps
link

made of just foamboard

bottom line is water and your finger tip and time

Depron eh? Thanks!

Now where do I find it…

Depron is just another brand name. Chances are better than not that you will not find a Depron supplier locally in the US…and the ones who sell it online really like their product, a lot.

Hit stores that sell to R/C aircraft, various "Depron" like foams are used and sold through them. Midwest Wood has one or two of them. Also, the "official" purpose of Depron is as an underlayment for flooring. Your big box home stores will have it near the supplies for installing laminate flooring (might be in a roll…don't worry, set a book on it and it will flatten out).

Another choice material depending on what you are building is at the home stores as well – fan fold insulation. It is about 1/4" thick, 4 feet wide and 50 feet long or so. Costs about $15-20 per bundle.

For me though, I get my Depron from Sam's Club. The trays that they sell for butcher's suppliers are made of the same material as Depron. Cheap as dirt, easy to get and they are sized conveniently. About 3 or 4 mm thick, which is a perfect thickness for a lot of building work.

The foamboard I get from Office Depot apparently has PVA-type glue. If you soak it overnight in water, the paper and glue will disintegrate off the board.

Great stuff everyone.
@Mexican Jack Squint:what were the templates for windows and doors you were talking about?

Foamboard is currently £2.49 GBP for a large sheet at Hobbycraft. 4 weeks ago it was £4.99.

Templates?

Go to the aisle where they stock pencils and protractors etc. Look for an index-card sized plastic sheet (mine is green) with holes cut out in various sizes and shapes. The biggest rectangle is the size of a 28mm door. The smaller ones, plus the squares, make windows.

That way you simply place it on the foamcore sheet wherever you want a door or windom and draw it in prior to cutting it out. Saves a LOT of time measuring out doors and windows!

Ahh, that makes perfect sense. Thank you!

That way you simply place it on the foamcore sheet wherever you want a door or windom and draw it in prior to cutting it out. Saves a LOT of time measuring out doors and windows!

Just a quick point that I found helps too. Draw a level line across the wall first. Usually I use the top of a door for this. After that, drop your windows where you see fit but align the top of the window with your level line. That way you don't have to worry about squaring up the window on the wall and also a fairly common design element is to have all the windows and doors align across the top (the bottoms of windows can and do change).

Less applicable for more primitive construction – but in those cases it is still handy. You want all your arrow loops to be in the same plane.

Eptingmike,

Try Cellfoam 88 then:

link
link
link

Dan
More:
TMP link
TMP link