"Using/Making rubber stamps to paint figs?" Topic

I just had an 'epiphany' and I thought I'd share the idea around and see what the thoughts of the group are.

I find painting shields to be the most difficult, especially repeating patterns (stripes, circles etc.) And it occurred to me that I could carve a pencil eraser into a simple shape (say a diamond or a bar) and use it like a Rubber stamp.

I have yet the try this but I'm betting somebody else has, and I hope they would share some tips.

I'm thinking the coverage wouldn't be very good but it would give you a constant outline to work with (the point)
and it would have to beat free handing this sort of thing.

Bill AKA yettie..."Otis"

You may want to also try the "foamy" type craft stamps used to added paint to t-shirts and fabrics. I have used them at the local "paint your own pottery" shop in the mall and they seem to work pretty well with the grainy almost textured pottery paint.

The trick seems to be to apply the paint to the stamp with a brush (not dipping in it paint) and then stamping it onto the object.

The process is called "tampo" and its how they put the emblems and etc. on Hot Wheels.

Ideally, you'll need a craft paint that is opaque enough that you won't have to try applying it a second time yet thin enough that it won't leave visible ridges.

You'll also need a good piece of smooth tile with an absolutely flat, gloss surface (think marble). An ink roller will help as well - you can find one at a printing supply shop.

On a mechanical tampo machine, the tampo itself is a cylinder and it applies paint by rolling onto the surface. In practice, its like one of the old Sumerian seals, or like the process of getting finger printed.

Similarly, getting paint onto the tampo is best done by rolling it through a thin layer of paint on the tile. This is why you need an absolutely smooth tile and why the roller mentioned above is a Good Thing(TM). You drop a dollop of craft paint onto the tile and you roll it smoth. This ensures even coverage onto the tampo and, as a result, onto the model.

Wyatt

I tried this before. My initial attempts surfaced problems which, after a little thought, I decided were not worth the effort to correct. But I was going for a finished product with only minor touch-up.

If you only want the outline and don't mind brushing on a second coat then it might work well for you.

1) Don't use a pencil eraser, the edges won't hold a straight edge for long. You need proper rubber stamp material.

2) Get the paint right for a good edge and forget coverage. You probably want a thin paint to reduce oozing when you press.

3) When stamping, the key is the correst pressure and a steady hand... so the paint don't ooze, the rubber don't distort and the stamp don't slip. Especially since shields are neither flat nor smooth.

I was using acrylic paint. On reflection, enamel might be better for stamping.

Good Luck

I've made many stamps for mail art projects, and I always used the plastic-type erasers. They carve easy, and stay good with intensive use. They are much smoother than the rubber type ones. The brand Edding comes to mind.

It's funny but I was professional printer for 15 years, and Litho ink would be perfect for this...very very high pigment density and very tacky for easy transfer, to bad I havn't touched any printers ink for 10 years, we used to buy it 50-100lbs at a time in 5lbs cans, i would kill for an ounce now!...

Wyatt the Odd*[You'll also need a good piece of smooth tile with an absolutely flat, gloss surface (think marble). An ink roller will help as well - you can find one at a printing supply shop]...We used to do what was called a 'draw down' for profing short run color samples that used this technique...back to the past

Gungnir*[I've made many stamps for mail art projects, and I always used the plastic-type erasers]...yeah I'll bet the plastic type would be more durable and hold a better 'edge'

BooneC*[If you only want the outline and don't mind brushing on a second coat then it might work well for you]...this is exactly what I had in mind

Bill AKA yettie..."Otis"

Yettie - Good idea.

Easiest would be to check out the existing collections of small rubber samps. I believe there is a brand of stamps, or maybe a product line called "Pixie Stamps." Their total width is less than 1/4inch, and they are made for decorating cards. While most are valentine's day, etc., there are some new age sets that might be appropriate. Try Michaels, AC Moore, or Joannes.

How do I know? (He says gruffly, defending his man-lyness.) My wife is a big-time stamper and I have bought them for her.

Also, whether you buy stamps or carve your own, use stamping pigment rather than ink. Pigment is more opaque and a richer medium. There are many metallic colors and - get this - there is even embossing powder. Sprinkle it on the pigment and heat with heat gun. It creates a raised/embossed surface. I am sure there are some uses for that!

Once again my wife's girly hobbies have been a boon to me. I have ranted before on my love of metallic gel roller pens for quick and dirty fig painting.

Seems that it would be lots easier to cut a shaped hole in a piece of plastic card, hold it very close to the shield, and spritz it with spray paint if all you want is the shape to subsequently paint in by hand.

Justin Taylor*[How about decals :) ]...If you are referring to the fine line of decals from Veni Vidi Vici, I have used and highly recommend them (send the check to the usual address)....
Lupus Yonderboy*[ a product line called "Pixie Stamps." ... use stamping pigment rather than ink. Pigment is more opaque and a richer medium. There are many metallic colors and - get this - there is even embossing powder. Sprinkle it on the pigment and heat with heat gun]...ahh I will look into this, sounds promising...BTW it takes a real man to be comfortable with his feminine side..;-)

Bill AKA yettie..."Otis"