"Where to start using Greenstuff?" Topic

I was thinking of doing some conversions using Greenstuff.

I have 'dabbled' into it before, but I find it sticks to all of my "tools" (read: ends of brushes, paperclips, etc…).

Is there a good 'primer' to using Greenstuff? What tools should I get? Anything else I am missing?

Thanks!

Grab some colour-shapers, a needle and an exacto blade (dull it so you don't cut yourself), and if you are a beginner try using procreate rather than greenstuff. They are similar, but you'll get much less sticking with the grey stuff.

Trust me it will save you all sorts of headaches.

Water is your friend! Seriously, if you have issues with the putty sticking to your tools, use water to keep it from sticking. The tools you need are really dependent on what you want to do with it. Gale Force 9 has a great set of sculpting tools you can get which cover all of the basics for not a lot of cash. If you know your dentist well, ask him if he has any "Margin Cutter" tools or other picks, etc., which you can have. They usually have a half dozen or more tools which are old and beyond usefulness in their dental office. My dentist gave me three tools last time I asked. If you have a pin vice and access to a hammer and an anvil, you can make many "micro tools" from stainless steel straight pins, the longer "hat pins" from a fabric store. The real key is to know when and how much water to use to keep the tools from sticking, but allowing you to see the work. If you go on Cool Mini Or Not, they have several sculpting primers (videos) available IIRC, and there are several other video sources available on line from Youtube, if you search hard enough! There are also other sculpting putties out there which are fun to mix with Greenstuff, like Apoxiesculpt, Procreate, and Milliput, which are all slightly different in composition and "memory" which give them different sculpting properties. Best of luck on your endeavors!

Another important trick is to know when to do what with it.
As it slowly hardens it has different properties, and is suited for different sculpting methods.

The first stage is when it is stickiest. Stick it in place, and wait a bit.
Use water, or vaseline, or spit, or whatever catches your fancy. Water is simplest, but tea will do just as fine.

The simple trick is "Lick your sculpting tools."

I know it does not conform to current Health and Safety guidance, but spit is like water but it sticks to your tools too :-)

Wetting them with water is probably safer and almost as effective.
Mick

And if you find it boring to wait for it to harden, warm it under a lamp. Some people build a sort of oven to speed things up.

And remember, one of the really good things about kneadatite is that if you're dissatisfied with the results it is easy to cut away and try again.

Press, don't cut or drag. Keep your tools wet. I use "wet water", but others us saliva or vaseline. Once something looks nice, don't add to it right away; let it harden and come back to add more putty.

"I know it does not conform to current Health and Safety guidance"

Actually I have read the US MSDS on Kneadatite and according to that the only danger it poses are three chemicals known to cause cancer.

Yellow food coloring

Blue food coloring

Talc

The talc has to be inhaled, so that's out unless you sand it after it's cured.

The two food coloring agents do not visibly bleed out and since Kneadatite shows notably little in the way of friability there seems to be no concern there. In any case they are approved as food coloring.

The epoxy part is apparently completely harmless and inert though I suppose some people might be sensitive to it.

Go to Amazon.com and order this book: Sculpting Miniature Military Figures With Kim Jones (A Schiffer Book for Hobbyists)

Contrary to the review the book is ENORMOUSLY helpful. As stated in a previous post, you get something like you want it and let it harden. Ken suggests using a clip on work light with a 100 watt bulb and lining a cardboard box with foil. Attach the light, put green into box, plug in light and the green stuff hardens much quicker. All detailer in the book. He does larger scale figures but it all applies to smaller scale too.

Another suggestion is to look at ProCreate. I believe that it does not stick as much to tools. Somewhere in the last few weeks is another alternative to green stuff on one of the boards. Probably one of the cheaper alternatives.

Ah, here is the alternative mentioned in a post: TMP link

magicsculp.com

My favourite tools are a Swiss-army knife (small blade) and a piece of wood (cocktail skewer) with sewing pins sticking out of either end, one bent one straight. Clay shapers are invaluable for smoothing (size 0, I prefer flat chisel and taper point). Water is generally sufficient to prevent sticking, and clay shapers work well with water for smoothing.

And stock up on 100 watt bulbs. The gov't is making them go bye-bye….

Someone round here has a little forum dedicated to just pushing putty around, with discussions and some useful links. Who was it again…?

I agree that procreate is good for beginners, unless you can get green stuff from a distributor who keeps it tip-top fresh in a freezer. In any case it wouldn't hurt to try both if you have the scratch to spare.
And I'd say that procreate is fairly sticky, but only when just-mixed. It loses that faster than other putties, so more important to get it whacked onto your sculpt or model quickly, before going in to shape it.

Tools: can't say much better than Clibinarium, Jovian and Simon. Myself, I mostly use an old GW tool, filed and polished way down to surfaces and edges that're actually useful.
link
Wax carver-type tools from other sources are usually better quality without as much (or any) work.

If using water as a lube, don't soak your tools, at least in the early stages. It can cause all kinds of headaches, preventing sticking, getting in the way of fine details, etc. Just damp them slightly. Use a paper towel to wick excess, or use a damp piece of sponge.

Magic sculp and apoxie sculpt (and cold clay) are very similar products; soft and claylike (including slight water solubility) with a vaguely waxy feel. Milliput's also claylike, but with a different handling: stiffer, more 'robust', a bit messier.
They also lack the elasticity of GS and procreate, and can be a bit flaky and delicate for the tinier wargaming scale details. Can be addressed by mixing in some elastic putty, or simply waiting for them to firm up as they cure. They have a good long work window, though. About two hours, sometimes close to three.

For lamp heating: AFAIK you can still get normal and ceramic heating bulbs – the kind used for livestock or exotic pets. Keep meaning to pick up a blue one myself. The airing cupboard just isn't as quick or convenient.
Though back when I had proper household bulbs, a 40 watt did okay for me. 100 watt would call for me to invest in oven gloves, I imagine.

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Warren B.
minisculpture.co.uk