""Miracle Dip" over white uniforms..." Topic

OK, so I've found that the miracle dip has been great for me over the years – lasting protection, solid enough results, takes an average paint job and makes it above average, makes the figs nearly handling proof.

However, I've had a consistent problem with a bit more darkening than I want. This is very much on my mind as I finish up a 7YW french battalion, 24 figs in off-white. After them I've an Austrian Battalion, they're in white.

What I need is less viscosity (goopiness) so that the dip will flow off the highs more yet still hit the cracks.

I am using the water-based versions of Minwax. I have already thinned it a bit with water. It has a watery texture. But the surface tension is still too high – I need more "flow".

My thought is to spray or brush on a matt varnish, probably Vallejo, let it dry, then dip the figures, shake off the excess, perhaps blot the highest highlights. I am also painting higher highlights.

Note, that these are not for painting competition. We're talking Old Glory figs, trying to paint them fast but still look good and endure game play.

A friend of mins is considering trying the dip but made out of that really common floor wax, whose name now escapes me. Does it have lower surface tension?

Thanks for any suggestions. Note I'm putting this in 18th Century and Napoleonics b/c that's a lot of Austrian and French uniforms that are white! It's in Ancients b/c I'll need to use the same technique for my late Romans and other linen-wearing ancients.

Try using inks or paint mixed with Future Floor Wax.

Many references on its use. It often gives a far lighter toning.

Newton Ink – works well.

Before I tried that, I primarily used craft paint and future mixed and that works well.

Doing classic Indians in white garb and Numidians in white cloth, I have future on white a lot. You can mix it thin or thick. Personally over white I use a thinner mix, and over darker colors its often heavy.

I give my white uniforms a coat of clear Future and let dry before the hitting it with the dip. It helps to prevent the wicking of the color all over.

BTW, if you haven't heard of it before, the Future Floor Wax process is usually called Magic Wash. Same concept as the Dip, just different ingredients & you can pick the color of the ink/paint you use to tailor it to your figures. I've used to for red washes before.

If you really need to reduce the surface tension you can buy "Flow Enhancer" at the art supply store. I have the feeling it's just a detergent solution, but it really helps washes "sink in" to the details on figures.

Learn to mix your own. You can use dish washing liquid, white glue or Future Floor Polish.

Waco Joe – is that straight Future Floor Polish? Or do you thin it down with water first?

Perhaps I should dip it in clear future then dip it in inked future? Would that fill the cracks and obscure details?

Is there a craft ink I could get at Michaels or something? I live in the US, Michaels is a REALLY common craft chain.

here is everything you need to know about future

link

you can use craft paints instead of inks, but the inks are better.

Although i think this is your real problem,

I am using the water-based versions of Minwax. I have already thinned it a bit with water. It has a watery texture. But the surface tension is still too high – I need more "flow".

You have to use Minwax Polyshades for the dip to work. All Polyshades are oil based adding water to it doesn't thin it. you need to use mineral spirits to thin them.

I usually use a wet paintbrush to pick up the future so it is marginally watered down. The smaller the mini the wetter I make it to keep from filling in the recessed areas.

I use Minwax Polyshades, Tudor color. This is the closest to black.
Stir, DO NOT SHAKE. Dip some out into the blister pack you are using as a pallette.

I have a bottle of Testor's Brush Cleaner handy, that I use to dip my brush into, to thin and control the strength of the stain. I prefer to thin it on the brush and on the fly, as it were, than to use set ratios. Besides, you can never be sure the strength of the stain you are lifting from the can.

Jakse375

The water-based MiniWax works just fine, and I prefer it to the oil-based version. That isn't his problem.

I would suggest that he switches to a lighter shade of stain and see how that turns out.

Alternately, just make a wash of about 7 parts water to 3 parts paint and brush it on.

Isopropyl alcohol (NOT RUBBING ALCOHOL, which contains some oil) can be mixxed with most any acrylic paint to make a good wash, and can be made extremely thin.

Note that this is a coloring method only, it is not a sealant. You'll need to apply polyurethane or whatever you use afterwards.

Indeed……. Iso alcohol is the secret ingredient to using acrylic paint in an airbrush. Thin them down with Oso and they'll spray just fine.

Minwax Polyshades are water based – has it in big writing on the can. I also have the oil Minwax Tudor shade which I used to use.

I'm leaning towards trying a 2-step process of a clear dip then a thinned down color dip. I'll respond with results.

How did this go? Any pictures?

Sorry, been sidetracked with 'real life'. Got to move furniture this weekend but was just thinking about finishing this test. I've a French regiment nearly done and then it's time to seal and stain. Stay tuned…I'll try and blog the pics.

Perhaps the problem is the tooth of the paint. I seal with clear gloss acrilic spray prior to applying dip or magic wash. Makes a huge difference.

OFM: that was one of the more useful tips I've ever gotten here.
Thanks.

@hessecassel: I don't dip, but I make a magic wash for my scifi minis. A little bit of Future goes a long way. When I'm mixing, it's usually 1 drop of Vallejo ink, 1 drop of Future, and about 5-8 parts water, then I brush the mix onto the model.

This gives me a bit of shading, and good black lines in the deep recesses. If I'm after darker shading and less 'blacklining' effect, I use less water, 3-4 drops. The 'lining' effect is still there, but it's not as noticeable since the other shadows are darker.