"Awesome But Easy Examples Of CONCRETE Walls???" Topic

Check out the texture and colors here*:

link

QUESTION:

Have you guys found any other good examples of how to simulate concrete textured walls for miniature gaming (for walls/tunnels for Modern, SF, etc.)?

Thanks,

Dan
* The fellow did a great job, even though he calls the extruded polystyrene used for insulation "styrofoam" (which is actually expanded polystyrene).

I'd say try experimenting with Spackle or some other filler type paste. Tap the material on with a damp flat tool.

Sandpaper and glasspaper looks good.
Just need to seal it well.

Filler can be used to represent 'poured' concrete- quite smooth in finish.Grainier pastes give a more rustic effect,for poorer quality structures or 'rush' jobs. Even thick emulsion will give/change a texture if applied heavily or mixed with fine (very fine!) sand or plaster type ingredients. The 'stucco' or finishing mortar available will provide a coarse grainy finish too…although it will need sealing with white glue or other substance as it can be 'dusty' after drying (very unpopular indoors!!) ……some of the various polystyrene products have a usable 'grain' although it can appear to regular or overly large depending on the scale designed for play.

we have used the Quickcrete, liquid crack filler.

Looks just like poured cement because it actually is :)

Some places carry an acrylic grout in small pre-mixed tubs (used for putting grout lines between vinyl tiles) … somewhat less unfriendly than Portland cement based products and cleans up with water. Probably NOT something you could mold into sold walls, as it would likely crumble, but it could certainly give you the desired texture on a core of something else.

Lowe's has it around here.

Doug

Someone posted a trick for making facial hair on 25mm figures that I wonder if it could work here. Paint the surface with a think layer of dilute white glue. Then sprinkle talcum or baby powder over it. Allow to dry, blow off the excess then paint. I have not tried it but it sounds like it might give you what you need without extra weight.

Foam board, drywall mud, fiberglass drywall tape link and a drywall sponge link (any cheap sponge with the sponge + green/white pad)

Cut your board to size

Cut strips of fiber tape to cover surface…if you are going to coat the edges then cover the edges and corners first (the tape cuts and folds easy) then the flat sides

Coat with thin layer of mud (this will dry quick, do not panic)

Use the sponge (damp not wet…keep a cup of water handy to rinse out the sponge) to smooth the areas while wet, to hydrate the rough areas and then smooth them, and to shape/fill spaces

tip 1
use masking tape to create sections where the concrete has fallen off the supports…put cut sections of tape on the fiberglass tape with dogears (to pull tape off with), cover with mud, pull tape off before the mud dries…the fiberglass tape will have a grid texture much like rebar or hanging grid

tip 2
to make big holes…cut out hole before coating, use tooth picks/coffee straws to represent full rebar or plumbing or conduit…then treat as normal

tip 3
to create sewer or other pipes…cut holes before coating, cut straws to size (crinkle straws make the bends easy), insert…then treat as normal

tip 4
to color the mud…add a few drops of water based paint (dark gray or soft black) to the mud before applying…then treat as normal

tip 5
create carbonite…treat a wall section as normal to the tape stage (no mud), take a trash plastic mini and mount with small drop of mud, let dry completely, then coat as normal

tip 6
create bricks…treat as normal through the wet mud stage, use a dull knife edge to cut the brick shapes…if the mud dries to quick take the damp sponge and press on the dry section, then continue the cutting

28mmMan,

Wow. Do you have any pics of what the finished product looks like?

Thanks,

Dan

When I have finished setting up my studio I will knock out a series for photos.

I am clearing out a rental garage and converting it over for resin work, wood/metal lathing, and model building.

About 50%…need to finish wiring it up so I can get some air going in there.

But all those steps work, give them a try. Best part is that a bucket of mud goes a long way.

Used House Exterior fine texture paint (Sandtex in UK) then medium grey primer and dry brush light grey, does a nice job.
It is quick aswell which helps with the large areas normally required for buildings.

I really love this look:

picture
link
link
link

Dan

The original Rogue Trader 40K book recommended using "scouring powder" to create a textured look. I've personally never done it, but I can experiment this weekend and let you know how it looks.

I'm a huge fan of Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty and use that to make my walls. I don't have stock in the company or anything; just honestly think this stuff is indispensable for terrain. I apply it with a butter knife to regular old Styrofoam in a very thin coat. I use a few of the same techniques as 28mm Man, but then again he had some new ones that I am totally stealing.

Pahoota: "but I can experiment (with scouring powder) this weekend and let you know how it looks"

That would be awesome!

Thanks,

Dan

This is interesting:

YouTube link

Dan

Dan,

Just finished my experiment with the scouring powder. I don't have pictures to illustrate my efforts, but I think the technique worked well.

I used a mixture Apple Barrel acrylic paint from Walmart, Barkeep's Friend scouring powder and water, all painted on a test sheet of styrene. It produces a nice textured surface, but not too granular to look weird in 15mm scale (my scale of choice). Whatever the little crystals are in the scouring powder sparkle when the light hits them at certain angles, so coat of spray paint or a wash might be needed. Hope that helps.

Dan,

I've just found this that may help:
PDF link

It came via link

Andrew
blog.kings-sleep.me.uk

Pahoota and Andrew,

Wow, that is awesome!

Thanks,

Dan

Check out this pic from District 9:

picture

Dan