"Talk to me of drilling!" Topic

I'm about to launch into a large 25/28mm War of the Roses project that will require me to, among other things, purchase some Old Glory 25mm figures which require drilling.

I totally avoided buying these figures for a past medieval Scots project because I knew nothing about drilling and couldnt be bothered to learn!

Well, a few years have gone by and I'm willing to expand my horizons (and my pocket book!). I still know absolutely nothing about what is needed, where to get "it" or what to do with "it" once I get it.

So veteran drillers, pretend you are talking to a Moron ;-) and tell me what I need to get, where to get it, and what to do with it so that I can put some spears/polearms in the hands of my little 25mm Old Glory War of the Roses friends.

Much appreciated!

You need a model makers micro drill preferably one on a drill stand as it makes things so much easier. Its also easier if you can adjust the drill speed. A small clamp to hold your figure is not essential but helps.

A pack of drill bits in suitable sizes and that's about it. H&S would say eye protection as well just in case.

You can of course use a pin vice to hold your drill bit and twiddle away by hand but if your doing lots of figures its easier to use a power drill.

I have found that for most projects on miniatures, one does not need a powered drill, and that more accurate holes that can be produces almost as fast as with a powered drill can be had with a jeweler's drill pin-vice.

I do not agree with Timmo, but then I have a perfectionist streak a mile wide and power drills tend to produce more "off" holes that require other attention or repair than does a pin-vice drill, and I have drilled out the hands of several thousand minis (Greeks, Romans, and Celts from Xyston and Corvus Belli – to replace bendy spears on the Corvus Belli minis, and all manner of Essex figures – as they all have spaghetti spears; 28mm LotR figures from GW, and 10mm Magister Militum and OG figures to name just a few). I have found no difference in speed when I compared some that I did with a powered drill to knowing how to use a pin-vice drill effectively (I've found that it takes some practice to get used to the correct usage of the pin-vice drills, and it is less likely to break smaller drill-bits).

The pin vice drill is inexpensive so get it right off.

I have one of the the battery Dremel models. I use it on metal miniatures but I start a pilot hole with the pin vise first. On plastic, the power drill gets too hot unless you're careful, so better to use a pin vise for the whole hole.

Pin Vice. Nuf Sed.

Pin Vice (or Vise for the Colonials), it is!

The pin vice is cheap and just as good if not a better (cheaper solution) but I've just got so used to using a power drill that I now find it easier. As Don mentions a tiny guide hole then your away. I've rebuilt hands at different angles using green stuff and still drilled these out with a power drill successfully.

What donrice said. After the pilot/guide hole, a
variable speed Dremel turned waay down does the job,
just be careful not to slant the drill bit, 'cause
it will either bind or (worse) snap.

I like the lowest-speed cordless Dremel available for this job. Mine's an ancient Mini-Mite 750.
-Kle.

Low RPM is the key with a power drill/dremell. Many of the really small diameter bits are not really designed for high speed drilling apprications.

I have a chuck that is designed for small bits, so I use a regular cordless power drill. Variable speed is important, as is keeping things slow and easy at start-up. A pin vise is often helpful to start holes, especially on surfaces that lack a small pit or dimple for a start. Todays metals are very hard compared to the soft white metal of days past, so you will likely break some bits on a large project, no matter how careful you are. I often put the figure's hand to be drilled against a wood block for support and drill right through the hand into the block. Remember, reverse is your friend! If the hand being drilled is not supported, you may have a problem with it bending and or breaking. Finally, it isn't always best to drill top down through the hand. Take a good look. Sometimes it works better to drill from the bottom of the hand up through the top.

Buy extra drill bits of the most common sizes.No matter how
carefull you are, they break.

Even when using apin vise, you might be interested to know that Dremel makes a set of extra small bits down to 1/32".

I stopped using a pin vise, and just use my cordless Dewalt drill, witha 1/8" bit. Like rdfxx says, variable speed is important, but I dfound it so much weasier to use then my Dremel or a pin vise.

Yea… Pin Vices are a good starting place….
But…
I would not trade in my Dremel Stylus ( link ) for anything.

Pin vise is ok for soft metal, but modern pewter figures are a pain to drill this way. Electric Dremel or other brand is so much easier. I use exacto knife to score the spot in an "X" and then drill. Use safety glasses if you do not have shatter proof specs. I use magnifiers also. I use fairly large bit, but if I need a bigger hole, I will then use pin vise to enlarge.
picture

I have found this drill very easy to use, and cheaper than Dremel. Faster to change bits. It is "Designed For Her" but works very well for "him" too :)
link

If you go the pin-vice route, find one with a round wooden handle. It is easier on your palm. The pin-vice route is perfect for Old Glory figures.

Rich

I use a variable speed hand held drill from Canadian Tire. Their home brand Mastercraft, it works great. Comes with a locking stand to use when sharpening up metel wire spears.
I use the metal ones sold by Old Glory and just put a nice sharp point on them. People are careful with your figures.

I have found a pin vise gives you a lot more control and better results.

I use three pin vises -- each with a successively larger bit -- that way I don't have to change them out.

I start with a #11 blade on an exacto knife to score the metal where I will drill. Then I start with a small bit and go till I punch through or until the bit binds.

Then I step up to the next size until the hole is of a sufficient diameter.

mjc

The other good thing about the pin vice is that, if you are like me and do a lot of your hobby stuff in the wee hours, it won't wake the missus!

And, use some soap on the bit when drilling.

a. Makes it easier.
b. Swarf won't clog the flutes.

What richardDMB said, the Dremel Stylus is a god send for wargamers. Remember to pick up the extra chuck to allow micro sized bits.