"Clear Gesso as Sealer/Varnish" Topic

I have recently experimented with white gesso as a primer for painting figures, and like it. I notice there's a clear gesso. Anyone tried it as a varnish after painting? I ask because I'm looking for a durable finish. I run a lot of demo games at conventions and would like to make my figures more resilient. I like the notion of a glear gel shrinking to "skin" figures. I've read where clear gesso is somewhat gritty, though. Any direct experience?

I ask before just trying it, cause gesso ain't cheap!!

Proviso: I know all about Future, PVA etc. I'm asking about clear gesso.

I've never tried it. Someone posted about this months ago, and a couple people opined that the very "toothiness" that makes it work well as a primer (holding paint that is put on it) would cause it to pick up lot of dirt and skin oils, leading to grimy figures.

If I were going to do it, I would put a spray finish on top of it afterwards.

Yep, clear gesso (at least the Liquitex brand) seems to have more "tooth" than colored gessoes. I wouldn't use it for a finish coat; if you're going to spend that much, get an acrylic varnish (Golden makes good ones).

And I know you don't want to hear it, but if cost is a concern, Future is your friend. Clear, tough (it's meant to be walked on!), cheap, and can be "flattened" relatively inexpensively by either adding Tamiya Flat base or a quick spray over with Dullcote.

Allen

Not only does it have more tooth and would get dirty faster, gesso isn't all that durable on miniatures. I think it would be a very poor sealer. As Allen says, you are much better off with a dedicated varnish. Future, Krylon Clear Coat, Testors Dull Coat are all good ones.

Thanks for the info, gents. Your answers are largely what I expected. (Dang! I hoped I was onto something.) My problem with Future is the shine doesn't fully come off with a matte spray (at least in my experience).

I currently use Krylon Matte spray, but it doesn't have a lot of legs under handling.

I might try painting figures with elmer's/white/PVA glue. I've done it with plastic casualty figures for a hard finish, but have noticed it can glob up and turns shiny/transluscent.

I'm trying to recall--Delthos's comment on durability reminded me--several years ago I tried both clear gesso tinted with paint, and glass and tile medium tinted with paint, both as primers. Both were touted at the time as great primer solutions. I think I had trouble with both of them wearing off just while painting, although I'm sure that the glass and tile sealer was worse.

Can't kill the Future shine with a matte spray? Huh. I haven't had any problems with that. I usually just use one spray coat over a protective coat of Future, and it goes dead flat. I don't doubt you; I'm just surprised.

Allen

I've had no problems with Future-Dullcote takes care of any shine.

I had similar hopes about clear gesso, and the same sort of responses here on TMP made me reconsider. I am really itching to try Future with Tamiya flat base.

Liquitex has a line of products meant for sealing artwork; that is their varnishes.

If you read the info on Liquitex' web site, they say specifically clear gesso is meant as a prep layer, a clear layer over other artwork or (with pigment added) a translucent layer, but always with the intent of painting on top.

I've used it extensively to make colored gesso for priming, and it does have a more gritty tooth than the standard (white) or gray or black gesso.

Okay, I'm a convert. Overnight I dug out a bottle of Future that I had from long ago, and dipped a test figure. I used to use the stuff on plastics. This time I used metal. After the first dip, I wondered if gravity allowed complete coverage, so I double-dipped once the first coat was dry. I got the shine I remembered, the surface also came out very hard. I couldn't scratch off any paint with a fingernail, which seems like a reasonable test. As of this morning, I've hit the figure with dull coate and the sheen has come right off. Not sure what happened previously when I couldn't get all the shine off, but it worked this time. I am converted!

The secret to dull coat is to only use a very light coat. A heavy coat will reduce the dulling effect.

Delthos, thanks for pointing out the obvious -- finally it clicked! It probably explains why I've been having so much trouble with my brush-on Dullcote -- too thick, that's why the result is still shiny. I think I'll try thinning it next time.

I use the Future dip, and then I brush on Mod Podge (decoupage) to kill the shine. The Mod Podge dries clear and I have a double coat/sealer. I've used Mod Podge as the only sealer on some of my mass army figures and haven't seen any indication of wear/tear on the coat.

Mod Podge can yellow with age and turn very ugly. At least on furniture.

Now that's interesting. We've had Mod Podge around the house for decades, but never thought to use it as a top coat. Guess it would have to be the matte version for a matte finish!

Not sure about the yellowing, though. In decoupage, it's more likely that the varnish applied *over* the Mod Podge that has yellowed. That's why it's important to use non-yellowing, UV-resistent varnishes.

Future sometimes gets a bad rap for "yellowing" white paint, too. But as folks have examined the issue, it turns out that it's the white paint underneath is yellowing, not the Future.

Mod Podge is marketing now specifically as non-yellowing, and as keeping papers from yellowing. So like Future, it may not be the culprit.

Worth some experimentation: thanks for the tip, Chgowiz!

Allen

I've only been using this technique for a couple of months, but I've not seen any issues.

Yes, I use the matte version to kill the Future shine.

And you're welcome! Glad my tip was useful.

white paint pigment will not yellow; its the binders in the paint which yellow. And the topcoat too.