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"Superglue Alternative?" Topic

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4,412 hits since 8 Jan 2010
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KaiLarson Inactive Member08 Jan 2010 11:33 a.m. PST

I am allegic to superglue.

Even a small whiff of the stuff causes respiratory problems. I've gotten around this for years by using an industrial filter mask, but I've found lately that even the smallest exposure makes me sick.

I need a superglue alternative. Something not cyano acrilate that will harden in a reasonable amount of time and I can use to do things like glue swords and spears in the hands of 15mm miniatures.

Any suggestions?

CmdrKiley Inactive Member08 Jan 2010 11:41 a.m. PST

I just bought it and haven't tried it out yet but Gorilla Glue is avaiable in a gel form and comes in a small tube applicator. You need some moisture for it to work, so I just bought a small spray bottle to spray a fine mist on the work when I glue them.

I figured it's worth an experiment. I suspect it won't be instant or even close to as fast as CA glue with accelerants, but I'm looking for bonding strength and less brittle joints.

Farstar Inactive Member08 Jan 2010 11:42 a.m. PST

Depending on the chemicals you react to, you may have some luck with the short-set epoxies. If your lungs have decided they don't like anything of the sort, you may need to switch hobbies…

Grizwald Inactive Member08 Jan 2010 11:45 a.m. PST

I've always used UHU and have done so for 30+ years.

Cerberus0311 Inactive Member08 Jan 2010 11:49 a.m. PST

"Goop" is what I use and might be something that you could use. You can find it at hardware and hobby stores.

Griefbringer08 Jan 2010 11:56 a.m. PST

If your lungs have decided they don't like anything of the sort, you may need to switch hobbies…

Or move to a scale/period/manufacturer where you do not need to glue the model bits together – attaching the models to the bases can be done with simple PVA which hopefully should be easier for your system.

Personal logo elsyrsyn Supporting Member of TMP08 Jan 2010 12:02 p.m. PST

Gorilla Glue is a eurethane glue, so will not be anything that could remotely be called "fast." It also expands into a foam as it sets, which calls for some careful planning on how to use it. It does, however, make a very strong bond.


flicking wargamer Inactive Member08 Jan 2010 12:09 p.m. PST

If you can find it (for some reason Wally World no longer carries it), Duco Cement is good, but it is not exactly fast. It gets an initial set pretty quick, but you really need to wait about 24 hours to get a full set. The bond is very good. I think better than Super Glue.

CmdrKiley Inactive Member08 Jan 2010 12:11 p.m. PST

thanks for the warning on the foaming.

sounds like best applications for some large internal joints like glueing warjacks and warbeasts together.

Might be the right stuff to do that Warzone Limited Edition Megazhoul I just unpacked in my basement.

aecurtis Fezian Inactive Member08 Jan 2010 12:16 p.m. PST

"Gorilla Glue is a eurethane glue, so will not be anything that could remotely be called "fast." It also expands into a foam as it sets, which calls for some careful planning on how to use it. It does, however, make a very strong bond."

I suspect from CmdrKiley's description that he is talking about Gorilla Glue Super Glue, which is a gel and contains rubber particles. Many of us have had good experiences with it, but it is a CA, so probably won't work for someone sensitive to it.

As Mike Snorbens suggests, UHU All-Purpose may be suitable. It's fairly innocuous, as the MSDS shows:

PDF link


Space Monkey08 Jan 2010 12:20 p.m. PST

I've used regular Gorilla Glue for some stuff and I haven't been all that fond of it… the foaming thing is one issue… but it also doesn't seem to yield as strong a bond as I'd expect. In general I much prefer good pinning and a two-part epoxy.

aecurtis Fezian Inactive Member08 Jan 2010 12:20 p.m. PST

CmdrKiley, if what you have is ordinary Gorilla Glue, yes it foams like a Bleeped text. We use it in laminating metal signs to plywood backing to make fairly indestructibe "Oversize Load" signs for the truck. You have to put it on veeeery thin, and be prepared to wipe up the excess immediately after you clamp and press it, before it sets.

I have also used it to laminate movement trays: sheet steel (duct material) to floor tile material. Same care applies. I would not consider using it to put models together.

Now if what you have is Gorilla Glue Super Glue, that's jolly stuff, although for joints between heavy pieces, I'd use something like JB Weld, or JB Quik, or some other two-part epoxy.


CmdrKiley Inactive Member08 Jan 2010 12:50 p.m. PST

Yes it's the Gorilla Glue Super Glue I was planning on experimenting with.

I did use some of the original Gorilla glue to put some vinyl tiles down in my basement floor that were peeling up. I recall having to apply it very thin, even smeared it around with a stiff card and left a gap around the edges. I did get some foaming up around the cracks on a few, which I just trimmed off with a razor blade.

Personal logo Wyatt the Odd Supporting Member of TMP Fezian08 Jan 2010 1:01 p.m. PST

Back in the 1980's there was something called "Contact Cement" or the like that I picked up in the UK. It wasn't a cyanoacrylate. It was yellowish and about the same consistency as toothpaste and came in a small toothpaste-like tube. Its bond was more omnidirectional rather than the unidirectional bond of superglue. This made it ideal when gluing larger pieces on wargaming figures (such as the Imperial Marine jet bike) as the two glues wouldn't mix, but using both would provide a really strong bond that held up to most abuse.

Is it still being made? And, can you get it in the US?


Paint it Pink08 Jan 2010 1:40 p.m. PST

How about 5 minute epoxy? Two parts, does what it says on the tin.

Jovian1 Inactive Member08 Jan 2010 1:49 p.m. PST

If you are putting Privateer Press Warjacks together I would recommend using an epoxy putty like Green Stuff, ProCreate, or Kneadatite to put them together. You can put them in place with the putty and use a hair dryer to speed the cure time of the putty. It is fairly non-toxic. Alternatively you could get a respirator with a solvent filter when working with superglue and wear nitrile gloves.

Shagnasty Supporting Member of TMP Inactive Member08 Jan 2010 2:01 p.m. PST

Family Dollar stores still carry Duco Cement as does Lowes. Good all around glue.

SECURITY MINISTER CRITTER Inactive Member08 Jan 2010 2:18 p.m. PST

If your lungs have decided they don't like anything of the sort, you may need to switch hobbies…

Or get child/grandchild,niece/nephew to do the work. I thought thats why we had kids…

Ivan DBA08 Jan 2010 2:46 p.m. PST

Hah, that was my first thought too, Critter!

bsrlee09 Jan 2010 12:25 a.m. PST

'Contact Cement' is for most purposes the same as 'Rubber Cement' (or Glue, depending on the tube/can). Goo was a really good 'rubber' cement, it even glues polythene & some 'Teflon' like plastics that nothing else would stick to.

The down side is that for best results you have to have it on both parts, then let it dry until tacky before putting them together, and you get no second chance.

And if Kai has respiratory problems, the solvents in those glues may also be a problem. The usual problem with CA glue is the it releases small amounts of cyanide compounds as a gas, and with enough exposure you get a semi-permanent cyanide poisoning, which can take several years to get over.

paulatmaws Inactive Member09 Jan 2010 10:13 a.m. PST

filla-glu now have a sensative super glue which has no odour and no blooming. For a review
comes in 10 and 20 gm might be ideal if you have a reaction to the odour.

aecurtis Fezian Inactive Member09 Jan 2010 12:40 p.m. PST

I thought War Glue was the flavor of the month.


Allen57 Supporting Member of TMP09 Jan 2010 1:16 p.m. PST

I have had good luck with Liquid Nails. The offer a tube of this marked Clear, small projects. It takes a while to dry but it is very sticky. I put together a bunch of Ogres using it and they have held together very well.


paulatmaws Inactive Member09 Jan 2010 6:42 p.m. PST

hi Allen
that was soooo 2008 lol.

XRaysVision10 Jan 2010 8:36 a.m. PST

Please do not confuse contact cement with rubber cement!

Contact cement is applied to the two surfaces to be joined, allowed to dry to a tack. When the surface contact, the bond is permanent and instantaneous!

Rubber cement is a rubbery, low tack, adhesive used primarly for paper. If one side is coated with rubber cement and allowed to dry, then it will be removable without leaving any residue. Airbrush artists make stencils and masks with this stuff. I applied to two pieces of paper and they are joined while is wet, then a more permanent bond is formed.

I use rubber cement to stick figures to painting sticks. When I'm done painting and coating, I just pull them off and rub the bottom with my thumb. The rubber cement just rolls up leaving absolutely no residue on the base of the figure.

Personal logo Bobgnar Supporting Member of TMP10 Jan 2010 8:32 p.m. PST

Basic gorilla glue -- expensive, brown, use a pin head amount on the hand, dip the sword in water so it has a dampness, attach and hold for a few minutes. just a little foam. I just tried using it for base terrain. Spread a thin layer on base and figure base, dip quickly in water. You get a very nice textured hard foam terain that you can paint or flock. Or add the flocking while it foams.

Mix the glue with some water in a bottle top. You get a paste like substance as the foaming begins, mix with tooth pick and use as a glue, stir as the foam occurs to make it more like consistency of white glue.

Gorilla super glue, no water, very fast, clear, hard. Maybe has same chemical problems as super glue. Try it.

Contact cement -- available in most hardware stores (DYI shops). Used for putting down floor tiles. Very good when you cannot hold pieces together. some on each piece, dry 10 minutes and stick together -- strong.

2 part epoxy, not the kind with push handle that combines two parts into one nozzel. Get the two bottles. 5 min or 15min depending on how much time you have. Mix small amounts on top of pop or water bottle tops. Use tooth pick to stir, or short thin dowel. When begins to thicken, put on items to attach. Hold or prop up so drying can happen and the bond is good.

Personal logo elsyrsyn Supporting Member of TMP22 Jan 2010 8:52 p.m. PST

Interesting idea for using PU glue for basing, Bob – I may have to try that! Thanks!


Cheomesh Inactive Member22 Jan 2010 10:55 p.m. PST

2 part epoxy or green-stuff has my vote.


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