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"Clear bases for naval ships (1/4800 scale)" Topic

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2,234 hits since 28 Dec 2009
©1994-2017 Bill Armintrout
Comments or corrections?

Andrew Beasley Inactive Member28 Dec 2009 7:18 a.m. PST


I have sorted out how I am basing my small ships and posted the process and result link

Now I wonder if it will work for foot troops?


hindsTMP Supporting Member of TMP28 Dec 2009 9:50 a.m. PST

Looks like you did a workmanlike job, given your choice of base style. With respect my remaining comments, note that I am not a proponent of basing naval miniatures. Given that caveat, however:

1) Why did you decide to have both the clear base and the blue sub-base? Wouldn't the former (clear) portion have been sufficient?
2) What does the clear portion look like when the light source is in back of the model, thus causing reflections?

Mark Hinds

Andrew Beasley Inactive Member28 Dec 2009 11:12 a.m. PST


The blue sub-base is moulded onto these models and due to the size (see link ) for the history and a 5p comparison shot I was not convinced I could cut them off without serious damage to the hull. Given a choice I would have gone with the base only.

Reflections are not a problem from the little I have used them. You can loose the letter a little – white may have been better – but a slight tilt of the head sorts that.

Personal logo Unlucky General Supporting Member of TMP28 Dec 2009 12:06 p.m. PST

Nice choice Andrew. I too elected to go with a clear glass base for my emerging Anglo-Dutch wars fleet. I decided to paint two seas panels as I wanted a green sea and then just plonk my models on top of it. It may not accommodate other basing styles I suppose but who cares? I just have the glass base (unlike yours) but then I have Langton's 1200 scale models so it's a lot easier to decide than your scale would have been.
They look great by the way.

Bill Rosser Supporting Member of TMP28 Dec 2009 7:29 p.m. PST

I mounted my 15mm Royalist ECW figures on clear bases years ago. The only problem I ever had was "yellowing" over time, still shows the table below, but they are definately no longer clear.


Personal logo Sgt Slag Supporting Member of TMP28 Dec 2009 9:01 p.m. PST

I've been using clear plastic bases for several years, now, but I matte coat mine. My bases are for fantasy 25mm-28mm figures (foot, cavalry, etc.). With the translucent matte coat added, the shiny, clear plastic bases become "frosted" in appearance, and when they are put onto a colored table surface, the frosting all but disappears, showing the table surface beneath. The overall effect is that the plastic base is almost invisible!

With the frosted, clear bases, my figures can be plopped down on any surface, and the subsurface shows through beautifully. Give it a try on a blank base, or scrap material. Hit it with some matte clear coat, and then plop it down onto different surfaces, and see what you think of it. It can work for any type of model, sea, land, swamp, etc. Your rub-on transfers will also be sealed beneath the matte clear coat, protected from most abuse. Cheers!

Andrew Beasley Inactive Member29 Dec 2009 6:20 a.m. PST

Thanks for the notes guys.

It may be a while efore I can report on the yellowing (I hope) but I'll try the matte test over the weekend.


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