"LBMS shield transfers " Topic

I've just had a look at the application instructions on their website and the look like a pain to fit.
So to anyone who has any experience of them, what are they like to apply?

A pain…. ;-) Definitely harder work than waterslide, but the end results are generally fabulous, so well worth the effort.

Chef:

They're not that hard; although it may seem so the first time. They're definitely not as easy as plain water-slide decals. They are much tougher for one thing.

Anyway, here's what I do and have had good results. First, peel off the plastic protective sheeting (after you cut the pattern the size you need). Then wet the transfer – that's what I do. I think the instructions say to place the transfer on the shield dry and then wet the paper backing. However, if you do it this way (the way in the instructions), you have to ensure the transfer is positioned pretty much exactly the way/place you want it. You'd have a really hard time peeling it off or moving it.

I've found that if I wet the shield surface first, I can move around the transfer to where I want it. Then, once where I want it, I firmly press the transfer onto the shield. By now, the paper backing is usually also pretty wet to help form the transfer over the shield. Which is needed to properly seat the transfer – especially if the shield is curved/convex. After it's dry you can peel off the paper backing.

Also, for curved/convex shields, you can use a sharp hobby knife to cut the ends a to help seat the transfers – as the instructions also state. You can also press the transfer down a bit after they're dry – the adhesive still should be workable.

Hope this helps. As with anything, the more experience you have with it, the better/easier it'll get. Oh, and as Dom says, the results are worth the effort.

Dean

They are a bit of a pain but they are fabulous! Dean has some good tips and I agree that the more you do it, the easier it will get.

One thing I'd like to find is a device that allowed me to cut the round patterns precisely, something like a hole-punch that is wide enough to fit the transfers for the macedonian round shields. If anyone has a pointed or a tip I'd like to hear it.

I've applied hundreds.

I personally wouldn't wet the shield, because the transfers are impervious and I don't think that the water wouldn't be able to escape, meaning that they might not stick as firmly to the shield.

I usually paint my shields and apply the transfers, before fixing the shields to the figure.

I spray paint the shields white (spray gives a smoother and harder-wearing surface than brushing IMHO). Must be white! Then I spray on a coat of gloss varnish; this really helps the transfers to stick. When very dry, position the transfers in the right place, wet the top (and only the top, and carefully; then remove the backing) and press. You may like to try this trick if the shield surface is curved:

link

If I have made this sound difficult, it isn't. The Roman shields with the rim and central spine above are the hardest I've done, and they aren't particularly hard. Like a lot of modelling tasks, it does require a careful hand and patience.

Cheers, Simon

Not much of a pain. They've gotten easier since the first-generation LBMS transfers. The tips above are good. I go ahead and brush on the white background, and then brush a coat of Future/Kleer, which evens out very nicely.

Allen

I use a pair of curved nail scissors- sold for cutting baies nails IIRC to cut round shapes out. Much more easy than normal scissors.

Coincidence, I was just typing about my first time using them over on my blog. At first they seemed difficult, but by the time I finished this unit they were easy, even with the adjustments I had to make.

iowagrognard.blogspot.com

Nice tip about the curved nail scissors… I'll try that!

Simon

I hate transfers. I especially hate water slide transfers. But "d recommend LBMS transfers. You do need to cut out the centre boss of some transfers, some are supplied pre cut.
I like the fact that you stick the transfer on, then wet the transfer and slide the backing off.
Does mean you need to be careful, because if your a little off, it's not good.
LBMS transfers are worth the effort, depending on the army, the finished look of the shields, finishes off an army. Did I say I hate painting shields more then I hate transfers.

They're initially tough to do, but after the first dozen or so, you get the knack. Now I wouldn't use anything else. The end result is definitely worth the effort: picture

I have taken Simon's advice and this works very well – the only thing I would add is that once dry I apply another coat of gloss varnish to seal the whole shield surface. This is especially useful to merge any additional painting needed on the shield face.

Once the figures are based I then spray with a matt varnish.

Hi Garry; I do that too! I figure that the varnish helps seal the edges in place.

Cheers, Simon

Thanks for the in put guys

I use a set of Decoupage Scissors to cut them out, you should be able to get a set from any craft shop.

They are better than water transfers, because after awhile, they dont start to dry up and pry away from the shield, only the edges of the transfer. Once they are on, they are on. Ive used about 500 of them. They are a little more work, but worth the time and money.
And I dont use White, Ive used Bronze, and they all show up fine.

Cheers,
tom

They are worth the effort!

>position the transfers in the right place, wet the top (and only the top, and carefully; then remove the backing) and press
>

People keep saying "backing" but isn't what you are referring to actually covering the top surface of the image?

PBN,

First, there's a clear plastic front piece to be removed, to reveal the sticky side of the transfer; then once the transfers are in place the paper backing is wetted so it can be removed.

So the sticky side is applied to the surface?

Then the paper is "fronting."

With normal water slide transfers, the paper is accurately described as being the "backing" because that is the side applied to the surface, and the paper backing is slid out from in between the surface and the back side of the decal.

PBN, I think of the paper as backing, because I look at the transfers through the clear plastic that is removed first, and the paper backing is behind the transfer. But yes the sticky side is applied first.