"Sealing Cardboard, or Thick Paper on Models?" Topic

Has anyone tried, or done this?

Was it successful?

I need to create some fairly complex details fast, and styrene is just too hard to cut, in order to do that. Additionally, I would like to be able to print on surface detailing as well.

So, I was thinking about printing the images out on thick paper, or thin cardboard, then cutting them out, and gluing them in place.

The items will be for a prototype, that shouldn't be abused too much, so I think gluing card to a model, and then sealing it with several gloss coats may work. Not sure if the inkjet/laser printing on it, or the paper/card will stand up to the gloss coating though.

It will be much easier to use scissors to cut these out, than to do so with an x-acto knife.

Thoughts?

I don't know how it will react with the ink from the ink jet printer, but I used to use a fixative for my pencil drawings. You spray it on after finishing your drawing and nothing rubs off. If you find the spray on gloss coat causes the ink to run, you could try this first. It can be found in art and craft stores.

I saw some cardstock terrain recently and the guy who built it said he used Future on it to seal it. I don't know how he did it, I assume he used a spray bottle though. So it can be done.

re: cutting

A sharp x-acto on a cutting mat beats shears anyday, imo.

I have done something similar with normal office paper (80 grams per square meter) to make a few straps – cut a lenght of paper, glue it on with PVA and once dry add a layer of gloss varnish by brush to make it more rigid. These have been added to the models before they have been primed.

I think this should work fine also with thicker papers. Just make sure you will be able to arrange sufficient contact surface between the two surfaces for the glue to adhere properly – this easy with thin paper due to bendyness, but stiffere paper or cardboard might be more difficult unless working with a flat surface.

As for printed details, laser printed matter should not be affected. With the ink jet, applying glue or varnish might make some of the ink to run if the paper has not cured properly – so at least test first with only one sample to see how it works, or if feeling unsure let the paper dry for up to 24 hours after the printing.

Yes, Sheet Styrene is extrememly EASY to cut.
Scribe and snap.

I would use the sheet styrene, but I can't print the design I want on it.

I have successfully printed designs on very large (A4) self-adhesive labels (Avery L7167) stuck the label to styrene sheet, scribed through the label and constructed from there.

They are fairly durable but don't think they would last long at a club.

The Avery product code is UK

x42

Letraset used to make one for sealing artwork Matt 103 I believe. very good. I never used it over inkjet, but was safe over magic marker visuals etc. I assume you should be able to get something similar from an art supply store

I agree that you MUST let the ink dry for 24 hours before using a spray coating or brush-on coating. Personally, I would hit it with a spray coat, wait a few hours and then brush on something thicker.

Best of luck!

Thanks for all the input everyone. I appreciate it.

I will have to experiment a little.

The labels sound like the easiest solution for attachment, and placement, without having to fiddle with a lot of glue.

I might try overhead transparency film as well, since that would obviously be more durable.

Not sure what type of glue to use to attach to a sealed model, so will need to test that too. The finish on it might be a bit more durable, especially if the printed side is glued up against the model for protection, and then sealed again over that.

I use 3M spray adhesive, just be careful where you spray it as it is sticky. Spray it on the back of the printed piece and put it on your card stock. It helps to have some type of roller to really stick it down. I did that when I ran out of unprinted card stock and had a bunch that I had printed something I didn't want. Works great and haven't had anything peeling either. The model, a cardstock steamtank, has been assembled for about a year now and been used in three different game sessions.

I've printed flags on an inkjet printer before using normal white printer / copier paper.

Sealed with thinned white glue. Ink did not run.

Painted over printout to give better color match and handpainted look. Paint did not seem to smear or soften the dried glue (hard to tell with that).

Further sealed with thinned white glue. Paint did not smear.

Result is stiff colored paper (a flag in my case). Cut out. Edges are white; paint these. Seal with thinned white glue as appropriate. (Note gotcha below.)

Another application of thinned white glue softens the stiff paper. Wrap around figure (onto flagpole in my case), let glue stick it on. Let dry.

Then to shape (make the flag appear to furl in wind in my case), apply thinned white glue to soften paper, shape as desired (curl round brush handle, etc.). Let dry. Repeat if needed.

The only gotcha in the whole process was coloring over the white paper edges (I usually paint them black). Paint or thinned paint or thinned acrylic ink with additional applications of thinned white glue … this works fine as above.

However if I use permanent marker, and then instead of white glue use superglue to attach to the figure … the marker ink runs.

Thanks for the info.

I hope to do some experimenting this weekend.

Went to a local printer, since Staples couldn't print the labels in full sheets.

I got both matt and gloss paper label variants.

The guy also mentioned he had clear labels too – not sure, but that might work even better. Didn't realize they made clear labels, so hope they work as well as desired.

The other neat thing is the guy is a model railroader, and is making his own buildings from scratch, using photos, and colored prints. He also mentioned he does labels for people as well. So, looks like I hit the jackpot there, if I ever need assistance, which I probably will.

My nice inkjet printer jammed, and can't afford to replace it, so having a close source to have custom decals made will be great.