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"Modifications" Topic


9 Posts

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865 hits since 26 Jul 2009
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Comments or corrections?

Mr Brightside26 Jul 2009 6:14 p.m. PST

My dad and I are hoping to do some modifications on 28mm metal miniatures and were wondering what the best method is for reattaching limbs, heads, and such.

Thanks,
ALV

nycjadie26 Jul 2009 7:01 p.m. PST

Are you working with plastic miniatures or metal? If plastic, what type of plastic? Hard or soft?

Personal logo mmitchell Sponsoring Member of TMP26 Jul 2009 8:34 p.m. PST

Metal: I've found that if you have a TINY bit for your Dremel, you can cut matching holes in the torso and the limb and then put a tiny piece of wire to support the join. You can then either use epoxy, glue or "green stuff" to seal any inadvertent gap between the two pieces.

If you don't have a Dremel or a tiny drill bit, you can still join them with epoxy or green stuff.

Woolshed Wargamer27 Jul 2009 2:22 a.m. PST

I use a dremel tool now but before I had one I used a pin drill. I pin most metal figures I modify. Is not as time consuming as it sounds and you don't get arms or legs falling off ever.

MotttheHoople27 Jul 2009 8:02 a.m. PST

Pinning and gluing are definitely the way to go. See this article for the detail link

This article may also be helpful. link

firstvarty197927 Jul 2009 8:16 a.m. PST

The real issue nowadays is the move from figures with a high lead content to ones with a low lead content (i.e., "lead" to "pewter"). It is much harder to work with than the mostly lead figures of the past – making modeling with plastic figures a much nicer (and easier) option.

I have a Dremel (well, two actually), and they are a life-saver for this kind of work, regardless of the material you are working with!

Sloth196328 Jul 2009 10:22 a.m. PST

Pin Vice is the method I use. As shaky as my hands are I don't trust myself with the Dremel on small stuff. Often what I do for arm replacement is; stick the parts together with a small bit of greenstuff; let it harden; drill completely through the shoulder into the chest; glue in a pin (paper clip or brass) with 5 minute epoxy; fill in the gaps and holes with greenstuff; file and sand 'til it looks pretty.

This assures that the two parts are aligned and gives a very strong join. The biggest trick is finding a spot to drill where it is easiest to hide it. Just below shoulder pads or armor is a good place on many figures.

If joining a torso to hips/legs, green stuff 'em together, drill up through the crotch into the torso (I can't believe I wrote that), and pin with epoxy. Very easy to hide.

Paul

Robin Bobcat31 Jul 2009 2:27 a.m. PST

In extreme situations, where the join is weak due to the size involved, consider adding to the figure. A draped sash, posing the gun to be held across the chest, or a new bandolier can hide and support a weak joint.

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