cabin4clw | 15 Jul 2009 4:53 p.m. PST |
Hi, Just wondered what is the best way to make the wash. Adding ink or acrylic paint? If ink what would you suggest? |
John Leahy  | 15 Jul 2009 5:38 p.m. PST |
I use Higgins Calligraphy Waterproof black ink. Works great and I have been using it for many years now. Got it at either Michaels or Hobby Lobby. Thanks, John |
Wolfshanza  | 15 Jul 2009 6:23 p.m. PST |
For mine, I use Vallejo ink. |
McKinstry  | 15 Jul 2009 8:45 p.m. PST |
I use Renaissance Ink's ink. |
aecurtis  | 15 Jul 2009 8:46 p.m. PST |
Winsor & Newton inks, usually Peat Brown. |
Zeelow | 15 Jul 2009 8:55 p.m. PST |
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Cardinal Hawkwood | 15 Jul 2009 9:55 p.m. PST |
I have found vallejo sepia to be the most useful |
Wolfshanza  | 15 Jul 2009 11:47 p.m. PST |
"I have found vallejo sepia to be the most useful" Yep, used that but there is a slight problem ? It tends to go greenish on a white background Had to touch up some Egyptian sudan 54's. |
vtsaogames | 16 Jul 2009 4:20 p.m. PST |
Windsor & Newton ink, black. |
chuck05  | 16 Jul 2009 4:44 p.m. PST |
I primarily use paint. I mix it up to a slightly milk like cosistancy so it really stays in the detail. |
1905Adventure | 17 Jul 2009 2:50 a.m. PST |
Ink is nice, but lately I've just been using paint. I generally use Reaper Master Series and P3 paints and find either works fine. |
Sapphon | 17 Jul 2009 1:19 p.m. PST |
Does this type of wash gather in the creases only, or does it stain the flat spots like some of the others? I've read through many of the posts regarding the Future wash, but would like to see some pics of figs before and after washing. Does anyone have some pics available? Thank you |
ThorLongus | 25 Jul 2009 9:30 a.m. PST |
FW Acrylic artists ink---used to use windsor/newton but it is not ccolorfast---it will fade over time
the fw comes in opaque and transluscent shades can even paint wwith the opaque.they have a flesh and white ink that save a lot of time
also you can make a batch of future/water 50/50 with no pigment and use this as a primer wash
.dry
. then apply the future pigmented wash for best sinking into crevasses |
1905Adventure | 27 Jul 2009 10:20 a.m. PST |
Sapphon, the wash does pull down into the creases, but it can also change the flat spots a bit. There's a pretty simple way around that though. Mix up the wash, wash the miniature, wait about 3-5 minutes for it to dry slightly (if you're in a very hot, dry place it could be even faster) and then take a damp swab and wipe it off the raised parts or anywhere you don't like the darkened colour. If you find you've waited too long and it won't come off, dampen the swab with windex/windowlene/window cleaner that has ammonia in it. Ammonia breaks down Future, so you'll be able to wipe the areas even if you've let it dry too long. If you don't let it dry enough, you'll know because the swab will suck the wash up out of the creases. I'm in the process of speed painting some zombies that will get washed but I don't have camera access right now. |
Sapphon | 28 Jul 2009 12:53 p.m. PST |
Nathaniel – Thank you very much for the tip. I may have to give this a shot and see how it works. Regards Chad |