
"Madness or Genius; You decide?" Topic
8 Posts
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Dropzonetoe  | 26 Jun 2009 1:26 a.m. PST |
I was looking at my miniature and have to decide on how to base it; tabbed vs integrated. I freely use both and have no problems either way but I got to thinking, and I was wondering if anything like this has been done before? If a base was made, an integreted one, with groves cut into it so that if someone wanted it to be tabbed they could have it by just "bending off" the front and back "excess", but if they wanted the full base to put on a washer it could just stay? The biggest con I can see of that is that the tab would be shorter than normal, or the base might be bigger than normal. Just a thought, curious either way as to input on it. I hope my ramble make sense. :) |
| LeadLair76 | 26 Jun 2009 1:30 a.m. PST |
Aren't tabs used so that the manufacturer can save money on metal? Also I can see these breaking when you don't want them too. |
| Saxondog | 26 Jun 2009 1:36 a.m. PST |
It might be a good idea IF you can make the bases thin enough to be snapped/cut off but thick enough that they don't snap on their own. Tough order. Personally, when given a choice, I choose integral bases over slots almost every time. Others are the opposite. Market to both groups could be good if it can be done. I did have a couple of figures several years ago that were slot based but the bases were thin and metal with a textured top. I liked them. |
Dropzonetoe  | 26 Jun 2009 2:36 a.m. PST |
Most integral based figures just rebased on washers right, or do people forgo that and just rely on the base alone? I was under the understand of the prior, for that case it would be safe from breakage as it would be glued to a washer and textured and all that jazz. |
Doms Decals  | 26 Jun 2009 2:38 a.m. PST |
I did have a couple of figures several years ago that were slot based but the bases were thin and metal with a textured top. I liked them.
Sounds like Eureka's approach. If a base was made, an integreted one, with groves cut into it so that if someone wanted it to be tabbed they could have it by just "bending off" the front and back "excess", but if they wanted the full base to put on a washer it could just stay?
Interesting idea, but I think the thickness of your base is likely to be your enemy here; thin enough for "normal" bases pretty much equates to not thick enough for a slotta type base, unfortunately. Dom. |
| gweirda | 26 Jun 2009 7:38 a.m. PST |
I may be missing something, but
The concern is centered on the bases and whether they can break off easily and/or stand up to use if kept --what about the tabs? If they're stong enough for a slotta won't they be hard to remove if basing on a washer is desired? dunno
like I said: I may not be seeing this correctly
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| CeruLucifus | 26 Jun 2009 10:24 a.m. PST |
Geez, it boggles my mind how much time people spend on this topic. At least this time it's a manufacturer asking! (I think slot bases are a good thing but I've done both kinds of basing from both kinds of figures.) LeadLair76, the metal cost is trivial. The slots are to 1) make it easier to mold; 2) write important manufacturer info; 3) compatibility with the nearest thing to a standard there is. dropzonetoe, I'd suggest a tab (for slot bases) with a groove along the top to make it easy to break off. People who use non-slot bases are used to sticking the feet down in two pools of epoxy or PVA or superglue or whatever. Actually, I often base tabbed figures in non-standard or at least non-slot bases. The ideal tab for me would have two vertical grooves in the tab, in line with the inside of the feet, for breaking out the middle of the tab. I frequently do that to get two pegs, and drill corresponding 1/4" or 3/8" holes in my bases for them. Easier than drilling the feet out for pins! |
| Saxondog | 27 Jun 2009 10:57 p.m. PST |
Don't care for this approach myself. For a display figure, glueing each foot down is no problem. I have done it several times. For a unit it's a pain and takes forever. I have a couple hundred dark age figures and holding each one til the glue dries would stink. I can superglue a hundred to sheet steel bases in 5 minutes (or less) and get on with basing if I choose. I prefer sheet metal (or at least thin washers) for bases. I can slope the base material and try to hide the base. Try to make the figures look like they are on the ground. Slot bases are also good for display but on the table it looks like they are all on 12" platforms. I like Warmachine and Privateer's figures but I truely HATE their bases. |
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