
"Working with Foamcore" Topic
11 Posts
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| tuscaloosa | 18 Apr 2009 2:46 p.m. PST |
I'd like to use foamcore to make some buildings, but I understand it's vulnerable to dissolving if I use spray paint to prime. Does this only happen to the foam "inner" and not the sheets on either side? Perhaps I could cover the inner with something like joint compound to seal it off in that case
What kind of glue goes well with foamcore, that would work to adhere wooden or plastic objects (i.e. windows, molding, doors, trim)? I am thinking to add external texture, of perhaps using joint compound as an outer thin layer, then lining out shallow gutters for a brick or stone effect. Has anyone tried this before? I am concerned that joint compound may not adhere well. Appreciate any thoughts. |
| CorpCommander | 18 Apr 2009 2:54 p.m. PST |
Don't use 2-part epoxy glue – I used only a drop of the stuff (less than 1cm^2 in area) and almost killed myself by breathing in the off-gasing styrene or whatever other chemical was released. You can spray paint it but do it outside and let it sit a while there. If it still smells funny after it has dried it is probably off-gasing and best to leave it out for a day or two. Another option which I suggest is to use painters tape to cover the exposed foam or use white glue to paper over the exposed parts. The outer paper layers of the foam core should not pose any danger. Search the hobby news in 2006 for when I gassed myself! |
| WeeSparky | 18 Apr 2009 3:29 p.m. PST |
I used white wood glue (PVA or Elmer's) with great success for attaching both the foamcore together and adding balsa wood beams and craft sticks. I have not tried sculpting in brick details though. The best texturing material I found was a roll of textured wall paper. The roll I found was a heavier plastic (vinyl?) And had an irregular fieldstone texture perfect for walls and towers. |
Garryowen  | 18 Apr 2009 5:33 p.m. PST |
Rather than sculpt in the brick detail, you might go to: appliedimaginationinc.com. This company makes some very nice plastic veneer with bricks, stone, tiled roof, shingled roofs, corrugated material, corrugated roof, thatch roof, Egytian block or stone, and on and on. I have used the 16000 series and the 17000 series for both 20mm and 25mm projects. None of their lines are stated as for 15mm if that is what you want. However, their bricks, for example, seem right for 20-25mm figures and they are smaller than those I see in resin buildings that are supposedly for 15mm figures. This company sells Omni-Stik to glue their plastic veneer to the version of foam core they sell. So far I have not used Onmi-Stik with foam core. My applications of the veneer so far have been to glue it to art board. The Omni-Stik works very well for that. It sets in less than a minute if you follow the directions. You can also get Omni-Stik at Hobby Lobby, at least where I live. Tom |
| CraigSpiel | 18 Apr 2009 6:49 p.m. PST |
I made some foam core buildings in the last year or so. I covered the whole thing with mod podge for texturing, then sprayed on auto body, grey primer. I had no problems with softening or dissolving material. For glue, I used Aleene's Tacky glue. I also made some adobe walls with foam core. To represent the bricks, I used a blunt stick, and traced out the courses, leaving a shallow impression. For stucco I used acrylic modeling paste (look for it at Michael's in the art supplies). I have found that joint compound breaks when handled alot. Acrylic modelic paste is very forgiving, water based, mixes very well with paint, and comes in textures. |
Dervel  | 18 Apr 2009 7:02 p.m. PST |
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| tuscaloosa | 18 Apr 2009 9:46 p.m. PST |
Very helpful comments, thanks all. |
| cloudcaptain | 18 Apr 2009 10:53 p.m. PST |
Do yourself a favor and get a rabbeting tool from your local craft store as well. Makes for seamless corners. |
| Cosmic Reset | 19 Apr 2009 5:37 a.m. PST |
I've used foam friendly super-glue, purpose made for use with foam. It dries a lot faster than the tacky glue, so lets you get done a little sooner. |
| wrgmr1 | 19 Apr 2009 8:51 a.m. PST |
These building were made with foamcore, white glue and basic paint. The textured building was done by taking a large brush, applying white glue all over then sprinkling white silica sand on it. Then spray painted afterwards. To stop the paint from reacting to the foam I just ran a bead of white glue along the edges. picture picture |
| Hitman | 20 Apr 2009 1:18 p.m. PST |
Michael's sells a special type of spray paint that is fine to use on foam and foamcore. It is by Design Master and called Colortool Spray. I use it all the time and have never had any issues, but it isn't cheap!! About $8 USD per can if I remember correctly, so I use the 40% coupon which makes it more bearable on the pocketbook at $4.80!! |
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