"Please guide me through dipping" Topic

I have seen several threads on "the dip" and it seems like an interesting method of detailing and sealing. However, these threads seem to pre-suppose a certain amount of knowledge, and I would like it if someone would take the time to lead me through the process step by step, including what to buy.

Please note that I have just received my new high fantasy army in the mail, and I want it to look as good as it possibly can, within my skill level as a painter (which is pretty basic). So, please offer tried and true advice only, no well meaning speculation .

Also, I am not interested in the future floor wax method. If I understand correctly, the dip is done with a polyurethane product, which I know wears like iron, and thus I'm guessing would be a good sealer.

Thank you very much.

I have started experimenting with this process this year. I used it to spuce up some old figures, and to speed paint some North African Moors. Good results both times.

Here is what I have done:
Prime the figure (I use black, or in the case of some mostly naked North Africans leather brown)

First block paint the figure (i.e. paint the base colors – typically it helps to go a little "brighter" than normal) Let it dry – especially if you use enamel or oil based paints!

Some people suggest a gloss coat before the dip, but I have not done this on my figures so far.

Then get a can of Minwax Polyshades Polyurethane (I like Bombay Mahogany for going over a primarily red/brown figure, Tudor is nice for a darker finish over, they also make Black stain now – I have not tried this, but hear it is too dark). You can shake or stir, some people do not. The amount of pigment will be directly related to how much you stir it. (requires some experimentation).

You can dip the figure and let it drip a little (some people shake it – messy). You can brush it on. You may end up using a brush anyway to spread it.

Afterwards I like to dab at the figure with a paper towel to soak up excess or even wipe high spots.

Let it dry over night and hit it with Dullcote (make sure you let it dry, and use light coats – or you may get orange peel!)

In the end it takes a little experimentation, it does give a hard finish, and it will typically look like crap until you Dullcote it.

Clean/thin the Minwax with Mineral spirits. I get the Minwax Polyshades at Gilroys (they carry Tudor) or Home Depot.

You should play around with some experiments before you go full speed.

take your forefinger and thumb and dip into the can and take a pinch…

remember just a pinch between your cheek and gums…oh

wrong "dip"

sorry.

This may not be exactly what you require, but …..

My procedure is to paint the figures with craft acrylics, then seal that paint with a coating of straight Future. This provides a smoother surface upon which to apply "The Dip." Without that smooth surface, I've found that the toothiness of the craft paint tends to make the figure just look dirty rather than having the stain flow into the folds, seams, etc.

I then lightly brush on a MinWax furniture stain. I use Walnut (IIRC). I try to ensure that the stain doesn't pool too much by wicking it up with the brush. Once I am satisfied, then I let the figures dry for a day or two, depending on the humidity.

After drying, I then brush on a coat of Delta Ceramcoat matte sealer to tone down the glossiness of the Future under sealer and MinWax "dip." This results in a satiny/matte finish which is fine with me.

You can see the results of this method on my blog:

link

I do not dip the figures in the can of stain as I have found it makes them too dark looking for my tastes. I personally am just trying to provide for definition for the faces and hands and for the various folds and seams so that the figures seem to have some depth to them. I have only used this technique with my 25/28mm SYW figures so far. I have not tried it yet on my other 25mm figures (Victorian Colonial, Renaissance, or Medieval) or any 15mm figures.

Jim

Here is the original article on the subject.
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Some more, useful comments
link

the link to Minwax does not work go here – products misspelled in link
link

Rather than shake or dab off the excess, I usually blow fairly hard on the figures to remove the stain from areas I don't want it to settle.

Blowing pops any bubbles and usually causes the stain to settle mostly in the low spots that "should" be shadowed.

I use Tudor gloss and hit it with dullcoat after its dry. Then sometimes I'll hit it with a satin spray if I want a little shine. That part is up to personal preference.

I use "cheap" brushes to apply MinWax Tudor to my 15mm stuff. Tha way I waste less and can control the amount of shading. Cheap brushes so that I can throw them away rather than mess with claening (I dip in batches, 20+ sticks of figures. 8 Infantry or 2 cavalry per stick)

Definitely brush it on, rather than trying to literally dip figures.

There are certain places on most figures where the Mnwax will pool and be too dark -- in the crooks of arms, along any horizantal ridge, etc. Dabbing with a paper towel or just brushing off the excess will help with that.

Experiment -- and don't do your best paintjobs first.

Hi!
have you taken a look at The Army Painter web site?
thearmypainter.com
They have tons of tutorials and even some youtube videos

regards
Thomas

I much appreciate all the advice guys. One thing I did notice was that most of the prior threads seem to suggest using the Tudor color, while a couple of you suggest other shades.

I'll start some tentative experiments, and see where this goes.

Again, thanks!

Here is a TMP Workbench article by Phil Hendry on it that is very good. It uses the Army Painter product. It really highlights how nice it can be when done right.

TMP link

I like using Minwax Polyshades Antique Walnut. It is a very rich warm brown color. It works very good on yellows, oranges, reds, browns and other warm colors. I am painting a Warhammer Empire army primarily in burgandy, yellow, and brown and this just brings them to life.

Tudor is a very dark brown, almost black. I personaly don't like it as it too dark for my tastes.

I liked the Tudor better myself, having tried it and a brown color.

I DID dip my figures, literally, and it worked fine. Here are some:
link

I do touch up some parts of the figure after dipping though, perhaps if I'd brushed-on that wouldn't be necessary? (I still think it was faster actually dipping.)

Specifically, I go back over shields so that they are bright. I also often highlight spear points in silver again.

Thanks again guys.

You may have all you want by now, but:

Here is my little run through of painting up and "dipping" some 15mm Elves (I call them Martians).
link

And a second page on "dipping" as well:
link

DyeHard

Okay:

Steps from the top:

1.). Clean flashing on figures.
2.) Prime them read where white primer in dipping method produces a better end product
3.). Block paint
4.). use pledge with Future Shine Premium Floor Finish(brush it on with a cheap paint brush.
5.). Brush on one of the Min Wax Polyshades Wood Stains….use a dry paint brush or paper towel to soak up access pooling of the stain)…..look for Min Wax Polyshades Satin Tudor #360, but know in advance it may have to be special ordered from a paint store, like Sherwin-Williams.
6.). Clean up paintbrushes with mineral spirits.

Other Min Wax Polyshade Wood Stains mentioned Bombay Mahogny, Antique Walnut, one is dark the other(Antique Walnut, works well on yellows and reds).

Al of these steps seem frought with possible disasters, I'd like to give the process a go, but it seems that the entire technique of "dipping" can produce some problems….

What to use to take the glossiness of the post-dipped miniature figure…use Delta Ceramcoat matte sealer by brushing on with a paintbrush or use Krylon Matte Sealer(I guess it's okay to spray it on once the dipped miniature figure is completely dry?)….

Have printed out Scott Holder original article on "The Dip Method" & DyeHard's article which has his steps for the dipping process….

Sure hope the process works for me, when I buy all of the neccessary products & can get the stones to give it a go…..

Regards,
Wayne