"What kinda glues do you..." Topic

use. Not sniff….

Lately I have been using something called Gorilla SuperGlue, and it works wonders.I use it for both metals and plastics. I also use it for mounting the fig onto the base itself. Fer flocking, I just use regular white glue.

What are you all using fer yer figs?

For gluing metal kits and for gluing metal figures or plastic figures to bases I have been using UHU for over 30 years.

From a chemical point of view, to stick card to card needs a different glue than (for example) sticking metal to metal, or sticking metal to card. Sticking plastics is completely different chemically and you need different glues depending on the type of plastic (in wargame terms, the difference between the soft plastic used for figures and the hard plastic used for kits). Some glues can (with care) be "unstuck" from certain materials, some can't. That might or might be an advantage, depending on what you are sticking to what and why.

To do this as a poll would therefore require a whole matrix not a single question with multiple answers.

Superglue for initial basing and temporary fixes. Despite it's name I have never found superglue to give a really strong bond. I usually employ Quick setting epoxy glue to fill gappy bases and fix large joints (filling in with milliput or greenstuff). White glue for flocking. Pretty standard stuff I expect.

BigLee
link

Warglue! The only 100% glue. It is the only glue I use when assembling sock puppet miniatures.

Either that or Zap-a-Gap CA glue (superglue brand available in the US.) I prefer the gap filling formula.

Blast! Wee Sparky beat me to it!

I'm a big fan of Zap-a-Gap, but it has its limitations. I use white glue less and less these days as it doesn't dry clear. I also use various types of epoxy glue for pinning, along with greenstuff. Occasionally I'll use something in the "real toolbox". I think Gorilla Glue is overkill, but others feel the same way about my liberal use of CA glue.

Oh, yes, I also use plastic cement for plastics, but I only recently started doing plastics again.

Riders to horses: Devcon 5 minute epoxy
Assembling track sides to tank chassis: same

Fixing a spear into a drilled out hand: Devcon Super glue (the runny kind)

Gluing a FoW foot slogger to its plastic base: Extremely cheap Dollar Store cyanoacrylate gel. Can't beat 3 or 4 tubes for a dollar. In this instance, quality is not an issue.

Extremely annoying butt joints on metal (assembling 15mm artillery, etc.): Gorilla Glue super glue

28mm foot troops on bass wood element bases: Elmer's glue (white PVA) or wood glue

Warglue! The only 100% glue. It is the only glue I use when assembling sock puppet miniatures.

It's rubbish, What you need is Warrior Glue! The only 100% glue

hang on

I agree with one of the earlier posters, this topic really needs to be broken out into different categories, as listed below.

For plastics to metal and resin to resin, I use any super glue (cyanocrylate) I have handy.

For metal to metal I use super glue on anything that has a close tight fit and doesn't have large heavy parts. For any other metal, I pin and use JB Weld. I also use this on poorly fitting resin pieces.

For polystyrene plastic to polystyrene plastic I use Testor's Model Glue and Plastruct Weldene.

For any other plastics like ABS to ABS, ABS to polystryene, and a bunch of others I use Plastruct Plastic Weld.

For basing with flock, sand, and other various stuff to include terrain I use Elmer's Glue, Elmer's Wood Glue, or any other brand of PVA glue I have handy.

Goop. Pretty much sticks anything to anything. Never gets super-hard so it can survive drops to a hard surface.

Super Glue Gel.

Anything serious: five-minute epoxy.

Something that may take an occasional knock: Gorilla *super* glue. I found that a couple of months ago and recommended it. It's the "rubberized" type that the War/Warrior/Warparrot types sneer at.

Ordinary work that's not likely to take a knock: dental CA. Recommended many, many times; shan't bother to again.

Basing any troops, whether to metal bases, washers, platic (yech): Elmer's Pliobond wood glue. Strong stuff, but you can free it when you need to.

Laminating magnetic sheet or sheet steel to movement trays: original Gorilla Glue: the expanding type, applied sparingly. But it'll probably never fail!

Allen

I'm fascinated by the number of people who use CA super glue of one sort or another. Firstly it's expensive for what it is and secondly when I tried using it, I found it gave a rather "brittle" join. On more than one occasion I had to repair a joint where it had got knocked and fallen apart. So I gave up using it and when back to my trusty UHU. Haven't used super glue for years and see no need, UHU does it fine.

Zap-A-Gap. . .And I pin everything.

8)

I don't trust cyanoacrylate (super glue); its bonds are too brittle for me. The best I can say about the miniatures I've glued together with cyanoacrylate is that some of them haven't come apart yet. The bottles also don't stay sealed for me, they always seem to be clogged or all dried up or both. UHU bottles are the only ones that don't seem to have this problem, so that's the only one I can recommend, unless you count the disposable tubes from the drug store.

For metal to metal, resin to metal, plastic to metal, by choice I use 15 minute epoxy. The 5 minute version is also strong enough for miniatures but I prefer the slightly longer working time. I mix small batches up in bottle caps. Usually I pin these assemblies as well.

If I need detail sculpted around the bond, I'll augment it with epoxy putty, usually Kneadatite ("green stuff") although other brands work fine as well. This really would be a case of a pinned armature including a sculpted socket of cured epoxy putty in between two model pieces, all of which is held together by epoxy.

For applying ground scatter I use thinned PVA household (white glue), and after it's cured, sometimes another layer on top. For larger pieces I'll use thinned PVA carpenter's glue (yellow glue), or sometimes unthinned PVA glue (either white or yellow). I also use PVA glue for attaching paper banners (usually thinned but sometimes not).

For terrain pieces where I don't want to wait for PVA to set, I'll use a hot glue gun. If the hot glue gun is out, I'll sometimes forego mixing epoxy and use hot glue to stick a miniature into a slot base, since it fills gaps readily.

For augmenting the self-stick adhesive on magnetic sheet when attaching it to the bottom of figure bases, I usually do add superglue. The self-stick adhesive dries up and disconnects over time, I find.

For plastic to plastic, I use liquid plastic model cement, the kind that melts the plastic and fuses it together. I have Plastruct Weldene, Plastruct Bondene, Tanax, and Tamiya (or maybe it's Testors). I try to find the least powerful solvent for the type of plastic I'm working with, since typically, the more powerful, the more toxic.

For sticking galvanized sheet ("tin") onto styrene plastic (to make movement trays that figure magnets will stick to), I use hot glue. It comes up eventually and needs to be re-glued. I'm going to try contact cement next. I tried Elmer's Ultimate Glue (their version of Gorilla Glue polyurethane glue) but it expands too much -- it forces bubbles into the styrene, which means after I use it I have to sand the movement tray flat again.

I use a several types of glue.

Gorilla Glue is not one of them -- bubbles when drying and very difficult to work with. Not to mention very toxic.

White Glue for most figs. Sometimes Epoxy to construct multi part figs. Superglue for plastics (LocTite has a brush -- very handy). Testors clear glue for windows and stuff where I need a clear look.

mjc

For metal to metal (horse to rider, shield to warrior) I use Super Glue, usually the "brush on" variety (doesn't dry up or clog for me).

For metal to wood base Duco Cement.

For flock to base Elmer's.

OFM: Extremely cheap Dollar Store cyanoacrylate gel

I use the liquid runny type for almost everything rather then the gel. (I tend to get the gel on everything!). I must have a soft touch as the only repairs I've made over the last decade were from dropping figures onto a concrete floor.

I did start using plastic glue some & I use white glue for basing.

Loctite 406 works on metal and most plastics

CA glue isn't that expensive. I can get 4 oz. bottle for $20 USD or so. A bottle usually lasts me for over a year and I use it for everything, including flock on terrain. I find it significantly reduces shedding as opposed to white glue. A little goes a long way.

Usually Superglue with an accelerator and PVA for the terrain and bases. If the pieces need a stronger union because they are big (apart from pinning) then a two component glue like Ceis comes at hand.

I use Insta-cure cyanoacrylate for most things which is then strengthened with Beauty Secrets quick dry nail glue.

For plastics Model Master's plastic cement does the job. For gluing figures to bases I use hot glue. For gluing resin together I use liquid nails. For gluing flock to bases I use latex paint.

For metal+metal, medium-gel CA with accelerator.
Plastic+metal, same.
Plastic+plastic, Testors plastic cement.
Flocking/basing, Elmer's.

I use Macho Glue, the 100% glue for 100% men. :P

Actually I use Zap-a-Gap and pinning for Battletech Mechs, Zap-a-Gap and occasional Zip Kicker for gluing track assemblies to resin hulled tanks. White glue for basing figures be they normal or slotta base. Plastic on Plastic gets Testors plastic cement from the brush on bottle.

"Looks like I picked the wrong week to quit sniffing glue!" Steve McCroskey- Airplane

Salut y'all!
Bruce the Texas Grognard

Chuck Norris doesn't use glue. He puts two bits of anything together and dares it come apart again.

Superglue Gel for pinning figures, Araldite Epoxy resin for figures to bases and riders to horses

hussarbob1746.webs.com

Unfortunately there is only one Chuck Norris and the rest of us mear mortals must use a variety of glues!