"War Museum, Pyongyang, North Korea" Topic

I visited The Victorious Fatherland Liberation War Museum (aka The War Museum) recently. It has been on my list of things to do since arriving here 14 months ago, and I knew I had to fit a visit in before leaving here in February.

The museum is in a large building, with bare stone floors, and due to the lack of heating it was freezing cold. As with most North Korean buildings in winter it is often colder inside than outside. The museum is geared, for foreigners anyway and probably Koreans too, towards showing how the American Imperialists started the war, how it was their entire fault etc. etc. My colleague and I agreed to disagree with the guide taking us around the museum about who caused the war. We also asked several questions about the South Korean involvement, which were brushed aside by the guide saying it was all the fault of the Americans.

Part of one of displays was about the alleged dropping of virus carrying insects on Korean and Chinese positions. We were told that a group of independent scientists confirmed these claims, and there was a copy of their dossier along with their names (included a Britain, Brazilian and an Italian amongst others). So far so good for the evidence, until I noticed that the front of the dossier was stamped at the bottom with 'Peking, 1952'. I began to ask the guide how it could be an independent report if it was published in one of the countries fighting in the war. She gave me a harsh look and took us to the next exhibit. One up to us!

In the museum here is a very large 360-degree painting apparently showing the destruction of the US 24th Division by units of the glorious North Korean army. Part of the painting shows the capture of General Dean (the highest ranking US officer to captured in the war). Our Korean museum guide told us that Dean dressed as a Private to avoid capture. Although if the painting he is shown with General's rank badges. I asked why he is painted this way and was told it was to make it easier for foreigners to pick out Dean in the painting.

We were shown a collection of captured vehicles; several Sherman tanks, a few jeeps and a token British Bren Gun Carrier (most probably shown to us, as we are Brits). All the dates of their capture where in the early stages of the war when the North invaded the South (ooppss…sorry that should of course be in the early stages of the war when the North pushed back the US led invasion). In the same hall there was a torpedo boat that allegedly sank the USS Baltimore early in the war. Although no expert on the war, I had not heard on any major naval encounters. Following the visit I did a quick Wikipedia check of the vessel (ok, perhaps not the most scientific approach but better than any information we can get over here). The ship was indeed around at the time of the Korean War, although operating in the Mediterranean, and was finally sold for scrap in the early 1970's.

After the visit to the museum I told our Korean staff at work about the USS Baltimore and gave them a copy of the Wikipedia entry, this seems to spark a lively debate. They told me that perhaps there was another ship called USS Baltimore that was sunk. I knew there wouldn't be, but no doubt there were some previous ships with the same name. As indeed there was and I printed out their histories too for our staff.

Their faces lit up when I said that there was another ship called USS Baltimore, which was sunk. These smiles disappeared when I said the ship in question was the first USS Baltimore, most probably lost at sea in a storm in 1790. All the other USS Baltimore's were sold as scrap after being de-commissioned. Did they still think the Koreans sank a ship named the USS Baltimore during the war? Quite probably, but at least a grain of doubt has been sown. If I get to re-visit the museum again I will ask more about the sinking.

It's these little things that keep us going over here.

Ezza

Ezza
If you don't mind my asking what brings you to nK? I have spent quite a bit of time in the ROK, courtesy of Uncle Sam. I really enjoy the Korean people, although it is interesting to see the questioning looks you get when you challenge their view of history. I don't think it is just the Koreans almost every asian I have run into has a similar belief that what they learned in school is the only truth.

Of course as I think about it so do many Americans. It does really make you wish we had better history teachers (or curriculum), it could really open some minds. I suppose that is why I teach my own children history.

Sounds really interesting that. Visiting war museums anywhere is worth mainly because of the often just slightly differently coloured view of history. One doesn't even have to go as far as North Korea to get to see somewhat different flavours.

I hope you get a chance to see the "other" Korean War Museum in Seoul before you leave the region. I am hoping to take the boys (The two other North Korean Wargamers) late this summer back home.
VR
James Mattes
(Proud Father of two AmerAsian North Korean Desendants)

If I ever run an AK47 Republic game scenario, I have got to use that museum name somewhere.

Dunno if I'd ask challenging questions in the DPRK myself. These are the same people that used to (fairly) routinely kidnap Japanese citizens!

Damon, might conveniently disappear…

I applaud your moxie!
I don't think I would be brave enough to make waves in the land of Fearless Leader…
-Kle.

I am over in Pyongyang working within the expat Embassy and NGO community. My tour is nearly over and I must admit I will miss this place due to it's bizarre and surreal nature. The stock reply of 'it's not possible' to most requests, being unable to meet Koreans one on one (there is always a minimum of two Koreans – one to conduct the meeting and the other to ensure he tows the party line)readily spring to mind, but there are a loads of other ones.

Foreinger wise, there are about 100 each in the Russian and Chinese Embassies – although we don't see them very often. The rest of the expat community is roughly around the 100 mark.

We do get some restrictions, but they are no way as bad as the US NGOs currently staying in one of Pyongyang's hotels. They have vehicles, but can't drive themselves as a Korean has to take them everywhere. I can't pick them up in one of our cars to take them around town either. Additionally they are not allowed to stray past the area just outside the hotel, even to the extend that they are not allowed to cross to the other side of the road outside the hotel.

Would have liked to seen the war museum in Seoul, but alas time is against me. I will though try and squeeze in a visit to the USS Pueblo if time allows.

Ezza

Very cool, and sounds like Iexpected it would. I agree with James the ROK war museum is very well done, worth the trip.

I'd love to see some photos of the war museum. I've seen some of the stock photos, etc, and have read about the museum before. Did they tell you the part about the US using atomic weapons on North Korea and China in the war?

As a 'helpful" suggestion, you might want to think twice about arguing the local NK tour guide flunky. They know what they've been told, and a lot of times, even the slightest hint of "knowing something other than the official party line", can get them in hot water. Remember they are there not to guide your tour, but to make sure you understand the evilness of the US against North Korea, and that it's all our fault…
Many of them are in a massive case of denial.

Please tell us more about this place, After spending two years in South Korea, I am fascinated by the ideas, and mentality, and surrealism of the north…

Murphy,

Thanks for the 'helpful' suggestion. We are all aware here that we can push the line a little and realise that they have to tow the party line. Think we get a little bit of leeway as we have been here for a while and realise how the system works and how far we can go.

There was no mention of the of the US using atomic weapons. It may be that it may be a bit too sensitive at present due to the North's nuclear programme.

Want to know a little more about the place…

One of my favourite Pyongyang stories, which I heard directly from the person it happened to, involved a phone call.

The person concerned is an expat working here and rang up their mother in Europe for a chat. Both being multi-lingual they spoke, out of habit, in a mixture of languages.

Two or three minutes into the call a third voice came on the line, 'Please use only one language, you are making my job difficult.'

I'm going to miss this place!

Ezza

Very interesting … I've heard about their NK War Museum … I had 2 tours in the Western Corridor and DMZ in the ROK as an officer with a US Army Mech Bn, '84-'85. Most Americans have little knowledge about the Korean War(except for MASH ?!?!) and the situation that exists there still today. I know the NKs have their own versions of "Orwellain New Speak" when is comes to the '50-'53 War and afterwards … Their "take" on things is sometimes laughable … But as I recall, when I was in the ROK, we were just as concerned about the South attacking North almost as much as the North attracking South … I had some very memorable times there …

Several years ago I've read an article, written by one of our rock musicians, who was a diplomat in N.Korea in the beginning of 90s. He got almost the same treatment as you – I mean he also heard how evil US are ;)
In this article he wrote a story which looks very like anecdote, however it can be true:

Three Russian officers lived in special "reservation" for foreign specialists. As there was nothing in shops, their Korean hosts were putting the food into their fridge when they were out of home.
However people missed some strong drinks, as they could never get used to local spirits. They were aware that they're listened all the time, so once during the dinner one of the officers said very loud:

"Thanks for comrade Kim Ir Sen for his hospitality, and all excellent food. However we'd be even more grateful, if we get some vodka, too"

And the next day they got a bottle of Stolichnaya in the fridge ;)

Oh, wow, Barin1…. that's really funny, and really sad at the same time.

I'm glad you got a chance to see the Museum. Did you get any pictures of the exhibits?

Lion in the Stars,

Unfortunately I didn't take any pictures, but there are a couple of pictures of the large 360-degree parorama at
link and general photos of the museum can be found at link

Ezza