| projectmayhem | 21 Dec 2008 3:46 p.m. PST |
What's the best technique for painting the edges of helmets where the paints chipped off and bare metal is exposed? This is the effect i'm after as shown by these Tom Weiss figs: link Looks like the paint has actually been scrathed off. |
IGWARG1   | 21 Dec 2008 3:57 p.m. PST |
Paint the helmet and actually file the paint off or scrape it with sharp knife. You can also paint the scratched edge black or dark brown and paint metallic paint over that. |
| Mikhail Lerementov | 21 Dec 2008 4:03 p.m. PST |
If you actually want to paint it, use a very very light gray or metallic steel and just touch the edge. |
| 74EFS Intel | 21 Dec 2008 4:25 p.m. PST |
I personally don't like this particular effect that Mr Weiss added to his helmets. German helmets had steel edges, unlike the non-magnetic edges of US M1 helmets. If a German helmet chipped enough to get to bare metal, it would oxidize within a number of hours. What would probably be a better effect is dark grey (or dark green for early helmets) showing through under field applied tan or winter white camo. Just being brushed on, these top colors tended to rub off on the edges or other areas that frequently came in contact with the ground (such as the crown). The same would be true for dust and dirt. Everytime the soldier took his helmet on or off the oils from his hands would remove some of the dust. For US helmets, on the other hand, the bits of bright metal are very appropriate for the edges. US helmets had an applied non-magnetic rim that paint just didn't adhere to very well. Regardless, a very light drybrush will achieve the effect you're looking for. |
| Cardinal Hawkwood | 21 Dec 2008 4:31 p.m. PST |
people who do big models use a lead pencil |
| thosmoss | 21 Dec 2008 5:04 p.m. PST |
Just use 'em on the tabletop for a while. Gun barrels, noses, and pants cuffs will capture the effect, too. |
| Sundance | 21 Dec 2008 5:58 p.m. PST |
Dry brushing with a gunmetal or dark gray will show it off they way you want without making it too garish. |
 MrHarold  | 22 Dec 2008 3:44 p.m. PST |
simply paint the area normal…. then paint little black splotches in the areas that you want there to be chips, then choose an undercoat color (or bare metal color) and paint in the middle of the black splotches… |
| Hyperventilate | 22 Dec 2008 4:01 p.m. PST |
Really interesting info there, 74EFS Intel. I was wondering about that when I saw Tom Weiss' figures for the first time. Any info on the material of the British helmets and their behaviour concerning paint? |
| Zardoz | 23 Dec 2008 7:01 a.m. PST |
Stipple on a dark grey (or basecoat colour for the object you're 'chipping') using a small piece of sponge in the areas that would receive the greatest wear. I use the sponges from the blister packs. The denser sponges are better. Dip the sponge in the paint, wipe most of it off (like a dry brush) then stipple it onto the area you want to be scratched. If you like, you can then paint in a metal colour (or use soft pencil lead) in the heavier areas of stippling to represent wear down to the base metal. |
| Ditto Tango 2 1 | 23 Dec 2008 8:33 a.m. PST |
What breathlessly beautiful paintwork by Mr Weiss (notwithstanding 74EFS Intel's comments), but, my god, what absolutely godawful horrible figures.
--
Tim |
| kevanG | 23 Dec 2008 8:47 a.m. PST |
15's have distortion, 28's have a similar distortion……only the majority of 20's with a few exceptions have the best proportion of anatomy, but that very proportionality is why I do not like the look of tham. |
| einaroneeye | 07 Jan 2009 2:51 p.m. PST |
The Weiss figures are quite stunning in my humble opinion. Very careful attention to detail. Thanks for sharing the link. I've always taken the easy way out on chipped helmets and gone with some spots or edging of steel or light gray. |
