Troop of Shewe  | 07 Dec 2008 2:49 a.m. PST |
Just thought i'd throw this one out to see what comes back. I need to model, consistantly, rivet heads for 1/56 conversion. I'd like to represent the rivet head as a dome rather than flat with cut off micro rod. I cant warrant forking out for the Historex punch and die set, any ideas? |
Col Stone | 07 Dec 2008 3:24 a.m. PST |
Here's what you need :) link |
Troop of Shewe  | 07 Dec 2008 3:48 a.m. PST |
Hi Col, i've seen them and they are an alternative, smallest is .032/ 0.8mm which may be slightly to big? |
Col Stone | 07 Dec 2008 4:00 a.m. PST |
0,8mm is reallly small tho :) i haven't seen anything smaller yet either.. |
Troop of Shewe  | 07 Dec 2008 4:33 a.m. PST |
fair point, i think i'll give them a go. Alternative is punching through tin sheet and cutting off, so hopefully they'll do. |
VillageIdiot | 07 Dec 2008 4:39 a.m. PST |
link available from Historex Agents in Dover. saves me no end of time mate. |
Col Stone | 07 Dec 2008 4:54 a.m. PST |
|
shaun from s and s models | 07 Dec 2008 6:15 a.m. PST |
neil, i am sure you could sculpt some with some green stuff, and i will see the finnished item when you are 75 or so! as you know i use micro rod in small chunks, but i do not make them rounded the casting process does that on its own. |
Troop of Shewe  | 07 Dec 2008 6:38 a.m. PST |
Nigel, proves the benefits of TMP, i forgot about them. I assume they are raised sufficiently from the clear decal sheet? do you just cut a strip and apply as a strip? For example, If i applied a strip and say drybrushed, would i get the lip of the decal sheet and then the rivet head?( also need to touch base with you re Panzer 1('s) ) Shaun, i guess you've guessed what these are for, micro rod just won't cut the mustard ( this time ) and my green stuff skills are limited, save that for the experts. |
Skeptic | 07 Dec 2008 6:38 a.m. PST |
There used to be a few techniques for making rivets in some very old Military Modelling magazine articles. IIRC, one is to melt the tip of some plastic rod, so that the plastic flows into a rounded blob at the end. You might also try squashing the melted end into a rivet-shaped hollow, which would act like a mould. |
Garand | 07 Dec 2008 7:31 a.m. PST |
I'll second the Grandt option. Easy to use, looks realistic. Much easier than any other option. Archer may be viable too, I just have a hang up of using decals to add these details (especially if the item is going to be cast). Damon. |
Mikhail Lerementov | 07 Dec 2008 9:07 a.m. PST |
Well, in the good old days we simply stuck a plastic rod the right size near a candle and cut off the resulting domed rivet. A bit of practice and you can get them a consistent size. I recommend using a birthday candle. |
Schogun | 07 Dec 2008 9:13 a.m. PST |
I'm looking for the same thing. I have a sheet of Archer rivets on order. Other possibilities: Historex punch and die set: link Expensive and maybe OOP? Hand drill and pin heads Drop of PVA (make require 2-3 drops for each rivet) or epoxy glue (tests show it holds shape better, but I have yet to actually try it since I'm waiting for my Archer rivets first) Grandt also makes Nut, Bolt, Washer & Rivet Castings Let us know what you end up doing! |
VillageIdiot | 07 Dec 2008 11:06 a.m. PST |
Neil I've used the Rivets on painted models,and the welding beads on a vehicle master, the carrying film is fairly thin, and if you cut as close to the Rivets as possible, it does help. Make sure you use a good decal setting solution and apply them before you primer the model. If you need big rivets, the best thing to use would be the Grandt line stuff. Pz1, I've found the spare hull at last, and will get it sent over to you. |
CAPTAIN BEEFHEART | 23 Dec 2008 7:36 a.m. PST |
Another technique is a grain of sugar covered with some white glue. |
johnnytodd | 03 Jan 2009 8:17 a.m. PST |
Neil, I just came across this topic – probably too late to help. For my White scout car master I needed domed headed rivets(screws), so I experimented with small drops of exra-thick super glue (cyanoacrylate). A tiny drop applied with the tip of a pin. All the rivets on the body were done this way – with mixed results. picture John |