Mooseworks8 | 16 Mar 2008 1:59 p.m. PST |
Anyone have any pics, plans or ideas for an 4x4 wargame table? |
Brandlin | 16 Mar 2008 2:04 p.m. PST |
here's an idea – make it about 48" square
seriously though i have no idea what kind of help / support you are looking for. may i suggest being a little more specific? |
anevilgiraffe | 16 Mar 2008 2:15 p.m. PST |
urban or rural
? features cut into the table or laid on top
? what period/genre
? Terragenesis has some articles on 4x4 link but as to whether they are of any use to you I have no idea
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Mooseworks8 | 16 Mar 2008 2:19 p.m. PST |
Thanks for the link anevilgiraffe. I'm actually seeking info on designs for the wooden table itself not the terrain on top of it. |
Condotta  | 16 Mar 2008 2:40 p.m. PST |
I created a 1930's European city scape using 2 2'x2' boards and one 2'x4' board. I then painted both sides of the boards with a black gloss emulsion to minimize warping. I cut 18" squares out of cardboard and glued to the centre of the 2' boards and, spaced to match, glued 2 of the 15" squares on the larger board. This provides 4 city blocks for my city centre. Using a thinner card, I cut 3" strips and glued them all around the 18" centres to create footpaths, leaving 3" all around for the roadway, which totalled 6" when butted up to an another board with the same dimensions. This provides 12" (2x3" footpaths and 2x3" roadway)between buildings, enough room for war machines, rubble and infantry to slug it out between the buildings. Besides street fighting, I wanted to fight in the buildings, so using foamboard, constucted 2 – 4 story buildings to fit on the 18" centres, a couple of the building blocks with a plaza in the centre with egress to the street so nasty surprises could pop out of the buildings at street level to strike unwary enemy. The buildings had removal foamboard floors so the fighters could enter and exit buildings and there are rubble floors to substitute as the buildings are damaged. Sorry, no pics. What are you interested in playing on your table? |
Condotta  | 16 Mar 2008 2:42 p.m. PST |
Sorry, saw your comment about table design after posting, but rather than delete, will leave for other interested gamers who may also misinterpret your post. There was thread on TMP about table construction that you many find with a quick search. The thread had photos and plans that you could modify to fit your need. Good luck! |
chonk34 | 16 Mar 2008 2:44 p.m. PST |
You could look at something like this and just cut the length dimensions by half. link |
Mooseworks8 | 16 Mar 2008 2:46 p.m. PST |
Wow a Knight TMPlar! Thanks for the info on your city boards & the other TMP thread, Condotta, they sound very neat. |
Mooseworks8 | 16 Mar 2008 2:49 p.m. PST |
Thanks for teh link chonk34, thats an interesting table. I added that link to my favorites for reference. I saw a 4x4 that had a distinct slope to the tabletop so you could sit up real close to the table with your legs under it. It also had a large storage area with a latched door underneath. I was curious if anyone else had something similiar or unique of their own that they might share. |
Mooseworks8 | 16 Mar 2008 3:12 p.m. PST |
found the thread, thanks Condotta. TMP link |
jimborex | 16 Mar 2008 3:30 p.m. PST |
I would offer that you can at IKEA buy a tabletop for about $30. USD It will not be 48x48", but you can find a reasonable sized table that is prepainted and hollow cored, so it won't warp. More to the point, though, I saw a table made of four shelf units on castors supporting the four corners of a table. If you did it that way, you'd enjoy the storage of the shelves (or cabinets, if you prefer), the sturdiness of these very thick "legs" at four corners, and the flexibility of being able to roll it around. I think I just convinced myself to go buy the components an d build one myself! |
Mooseworks8 | 16 Mar 2008 3:35 p.m. PST |
thanks jimborex. I have never heard of IKEA before I will check them out. I do very much like the idea of storage cabinets and shelves and the sturdiness factor is a must. |
Dave Crowell | 16 Mar 2008 3:51 p.m. PST |
A half sheet of plywood will give you the 4x4 surface. If you are in a hurry (and cheap) you can just place it on top of a folding card table. Just be careful not to lean to hard on the edges. |
Mooseworks8 | 16 Mar 2008 4:03 p.m. PST |
thanks Dave. that is currently what we do but on our kitchen counter-bar vice card table. |
jizbrand | 16 Mar 2008 7:15 p.m. PST |
And here I was trying to figure out why you'd want to take wargames table off-road! |
dampfpanzerwagon  | 17 Mar 2008 3:14 a.m. PST |
I am sure that there is something about building a gaming table on one of the GW sites – I will try to find it when I get home. I have four seperate gaming boards (rather than tables), the first is a Mars terrain board that was constructed to cover a pool table, the second and most used is a green flocked board made from white polystyrene packing material and the third is a 750mm x 750mm skirmish board with a single concrete building in the centre, the fourth board is really a display piece and is a fully modelled cavern called The Rock Kings Throne Room. Check out ; link Flash Gordon Work in Progress photo file I would suggest a 48inch square solid table witha 2inch wooden lip around the edge, paint the whole thing black and then have 4 24inch square terrain boards that you can interchange (you may even buy them all ready flocked). I would further suggest that you go with a green flocked board – the most common and most usefull. Regards Tony dampfpanzerwagon.blogspot.com |
KatieL | 17 Mar 2008 3:36 a.m. PST |
How about three of these; link You could put two of them back-to-back (with a small space) and one along the front. And then put a 4x4 lump of MDF on the top. It'll be a little over 4x4 in total, but all those drawers are useful storage space
It has the advantage that if you need the space, you can remove the MDF and then wheel the units somewhere else. The trays come with nice tight fitting lids and will hold A4 sheets of paper flat so they can take rulebooks and the new trays from Figures in Comfort designed for file boxes might just fit them. I've got 4 of them with a huge tabletop (6x13 feet) built onto the top for my lego modelling to live on; the trays can be fitted with subdividers for the different bricks. |
anevilgiraffe | 17 Mar 2008 3:46 a.m. PST |
in that case, this particular article has a great design for the table
link and there is this one
link |
HeadlessHessian  | 17 Mar 2008 4:15 a.m. PST |
My table is 5x11, its in the basement, and I use a small boat winch to raise to the ceiling when not in use. that way I can keep long running board games on it while freeing up the space for a day long miniatures. :-)> If you want me to send you pictures just email me at matancero dot comcast dot net. Headless |
gweirda | 17 Mar 2008 4:43 a.m. PST |
if there is no space restriction, i recommend building bigger than 4x4 --for most games, the more space available the better, right? the common reach-limit is what
30"-36"?
so go with a 5- or 6-foot wide table. |
Cerdic | 17 Mar 2008 6:28 a.m. PST |
I read the thread title and wondered why you would want to drive a wargames table off-road! I may have mis-interpreted it
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jimborex | 17 Mar 2008 10:45 a.m. PST |
Cerdic, you're awful. But, since you started it: Half move in rough terrain causing your miniatures problems? Be the first on your block with the 4 x 4 gaming table. Cautiion: Wear safety belt when operating. |
normsmith | 18 Mar 2008 2:40 p.m. PST |
Games workshop often have 4 x 4 setups. They seem to make a base out of 4 secions of 2 x 4 chipboard stood on their end, so that they make a sort of 'X' a 4 x 4 is then placed on top of this. Advantages are (1) you can make the base any height, so you don't have to bend over the table (bad backs). (2) you can make the base with hinged panels, to get a fold away affair. |
jimborex | 18 Mar 2008 6:32 p.m. PST |
I am told that in the UK, the 4 x 4 foot wargames table is typical. I would say that locally here on the East Coast of the USA the typical size is about 5 x 8 feet, sometimes longer, but rarely wider because of the reach limit of the average gamer. I typically use a 3 x 3 folding card table, myself, because my sons are small and have limited reach and an even more limited concept of maneuver. Would any of the British gents on board here care to comment on the typical game table size, if a typical size exists? Kind regards, Jim |