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"1' x 1' Game Tiles: Foamboard?" Topic

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2,749 hits since 9 Dec 2007
©1994-2018 Bill Armintrout
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Personal logo Editor in Chief Bill The Editor of TMP Fezian09 Dec 2007 6:47 p.m. PST

For a game that is played on a 1' grid, I'm toying with the idea of making some 1' x 1' game tiles.

And I'm thinking of using the "double thick" type of foamboard.

I understand that I can use the water-based form of Liquid Nails as safe adhesive that won't warp the foamboard. Will it work as an adhesive to hold down flock?

Any experience from those who have tried this before?

Dentatus Fezian09 Dec 2007 7:04 p.m. PST

What about the World Works Games cardstock floors in some of their sets?


Lee Brilleaux Fezian Inactive Member09 Dec 2007 7:06 p.m. PST

I'd use thinned white glue to hold down flock.

Pizzagrenadier09 Dec 2007 7:10 p.m. PST

I've used a flat Polyeuthetane (water based) with a nice effect to put down flock, as well as wood glue.

Personal logo Editor in Chief Bill The Editor of TMP Fezian09 Dec 2007 7:18 p.m. PST

I wonder if anyone local carries this "heavy duty" foamboard: link

Mightycore White Foam Board

Product Description:
Heavy Duty, 1/2" thick foam board (also available in 48" x 96" sheet size)

40" x 60"

I see Elmer's also lists a spray adhesive. link

Dan 055 Inactive Member09 Dec 2007 7:25 p.m. PST

Have you considered Carpet Tiles? One foot square interlocking carpet squares in grass green or desert brown.

Personal logo Editor in Chief Bill The Editor of TMP Fezian09 Dec 2007 7:27 p.m. PST

Never heard of this stuff before – Gatorfoam! Foam board with wood veneer… link

Too bad it comes it such odd sizes, and sounds difficult to cut to a smaller size.

Personal logo Editor in Chief Bill The Editor of TMP Fezian09 Dec 2007 7:33 p.m. PST

I would if self-adhesive foamboard would work? Peel the paper off, apply flock… sounds simple enough.

Personal logo Editor in Chief Bill The Editor of TMP Fezian09 Dec 2007 7:35 p.m. PST

What about the World Works Games cardstock floors in some of their sets?

I'm doing an outdoors terrain set, and I don't see anything appropriate from WWG.

Mr Pumblechook Inactive Member09 Dec 2007 7:45 p.m. PST

Another alternative is cork tiles.

Lord Billington Wadsworth Fezian Inactive Member09 Dec 2007 7:46 p.m. PST

They make archivae quality posterboard which is thick and won't warp from moisture.

There is also soemthing called "Gatorboard" which I have fallen in love with – it is like foamcore, and is super light weight – but won't warp at all. (I guess this is the gator foam you mention).

I have found it actually cuts quite well witha sharp knive. we used it to base our Cities of Death terrain pieces because it is durable and lightweight (Actually cut it into 1x1 squares) We used a tile as a straight edge and simply cut and snapped it apart.

We got the sheets as scrap from a sign company.

Personal logo Editor in Chief Bill The Editor of TMP Fezian09 Dec 2007 9:04 p.m. PST

we used it to base our Cities of Death terrain pieces

What thickness are you using? (It comes in several thicknesses, up to 2")

JLA10509 Dec 2007 10:11 p.m. PST

I'll second Iron Ivan's suggestion of using Polyurethane. I've used it to flock several projects, and the flock sticks so well it will scrape your knuckles if you aren't careful. Kinda fun when you play with 'energetic' die-rollers.

Lord Billington Wadsworth Fezian Inactive Member09 Dec 2007 10:24 p.m. PST

1/2" or 1/4" I think.

It was as thin as the average sheet of foamcore.

Tom Bryant09 Dec 2007 10:47 p.m. PST

You know Bill, you could also use 1' x 1' fiber ceiling tiles. I saw a Warhammer 40k table set up using them several years ago and I thought seriously about using them for terrain tiles. I still think they would be an idea way to go. These were made of fiber material and had interlocks on the edge.

Cold Steel Inactive Member10 Dec 2007 5:04 a.m. PST

Consider flooring tiles. They come in 1x1 size standard. They will also provide a very stable backing and size reference if you choose to go with some type of foam base.

Dentatus Fezian10 Dec 2007 6:19 a.m. PST

Home Depot vinyl stick floor tiles – cheap, come in all kinds of colors/textures, etc, and can be scored & snapped easily to size.

Personal logo Editor in Chief Bill The Editor of TMP Fezian10 Dec 2007 6:50 a.m. PST

vinyl stick floor tiles

Don't they come with an embossed surface?

(Oh - use them upside-down, I get it...)

Bob in Edmonton10 Dec 2007 9:11 a.m. PST

I was going to suggest the floor tiles (peel the back and scatter flock). You can seal with future floor wax. The only downside is the floor tiles are unbelievably heavy when you pick up a box of 25. Yes, 25 sq ft, but the weight is really surprising.

dandiggler10 Dec 2007 9:41 a.m. PST

Personally not a fan of Elmer's spay adhesive. In my experience it can stay tacky and does not go well with flock. I've used standard Elmer's Glue or Tacky Glue thinned down with water and a dash of dish soap thrown in. It'll prevent the glue from shrinking.

I like the floor tile idea, never saw it done that way before. I usually paint the surface that will be flocked just in case some should rub off, so I don't know if if would be my first choice but probably worth a try.

dandiggler10 Dec 2007 9:55 a.m. PST

Also, I'm a fan of masonite for tiles. They're light weight, very durable, and easy to cut -- not to mention very inexpensive. Back when I was playing a lot of GW stuff I did an entire (4' x 8') modular city for Mordheim out of 1' x 1' tiles with the building attached. Took a little planning, but ended up being very versatile.

GRENADIER1 Inactive Member10 Dec 2007 10:29 a.m. PST

My table is covered with 2' x 4' suspended ceiling tiles. They are great provided you are not moving them alot. They are a little fragile and can break but if you glue them to masonite or foam board they are sturdy. I have a whole mess of them I am getting ready to glue up.

Dentatus Fezian10 Dec 2007 11:16 a.m. PST

Embossed surface?

Some do – but the faux stone ones are smooth. Score, snap, spray a base color, flock and seal and you should be good to go.

Lentulus Inactive Member10 Dec 2007 5:05 p.m. PST

Given that I have a supply (free) of conventional foamcore, any thouughts on how to minimize warping?

religon Inactive Member10 Dec 2007 5:21 p.m. PST

I might suggest an alternate size to 1 ft by 1 ft irrespective of the material.

Consider 2.5 ft tiles. When playing games in 28mm, 5 foot by 5 foot is about a minimum for fast moving (cavalry or vehicle) action. With 2.5 foot tiles, they can be placed on a standard 4 foot deep table with only 6 inches of overhang. Subtle, but it often greatly improves games involving forces in 28mm than are not entirely infantry. (And if you have deeper tables, 7.5 feet is about as deep as a table can be before it is difficult to reach the center.)

Tanuki Inactive Member11 Dec 2007 9:02 a.m. PST

Foamboard – I've done it, and it works. First thing I'd do is protect the edge with duct tape (it will get bashed around) or textured masonry paint. If you have to paint it, or coat it with glue, I'd paint it by halves – just paint both sides at the same time and it won't warp as it dries. Then do the other half.

The first coat usually seals it, so you won't have to worry about warping for subsequent coats of glue/paint.

The other thing about using textured paint it you can either drybrush it to the colour you want, or it makes an excellent base for flock (lots of bits for the glue to grab onto). PVA is usually OK to hold flock, use the really thick and gloopy stuff from DIY stores rather than the mega-cheap watered-down brands you tend to get in art shops. Special "sticky" glues are much better, but more expensive.

I'm with MJS – seal the flock on with a spray of watered-down PVA AFTER painting and flocking.

Personally, I use 1' polystyrene ceiling tiles backed with masonite (hardboard) for rigidity. Paint over with textured masonry paint (fairly tough) and you have a good solid base tile for painting and flocking. You can also cut shapes out of the polystyrene for roads and rivers.

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